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OlegV

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Posts posted by OlegV

  1. 6323Johanessburg-route.jpg

     

    Red line:

    we loose an hour or more probing the mixed ground on this ramp. We figured the ramp has low angle, so we started without crampons and unropped. It felt very sketchy - useless powder snow, no place for pro, unstable climbing. We repel down after facing the steep rock step and decide to explore the basin.

     

    Green line:

    We unexpectedly decide to climb the route.

    1. Easy snow gully culminating in some weird ice/rock mixed climbing. While climbing this crux, we were continually showered by small snow avalanches (since this gully was very narrow and worked as a funnel).

    2. Steep traverse. Felt exposed but easy – lots of small tress for protection.

    3. The beginning of vertical bushwhacking. It is vertical!!! Somewhere at the point where the line splits, Eric led some of the most frightening pitch of the climb with no possible protection other than frozen moss.

    4. We enter the sketchy territory and just push upwards in the woods in the search of the snowfield. 2 hours spent in the dark. High wind doesn’t cooperate.

    5. We settle on the small ledge, anchor ourselves to the tree, boil plenty of water and sleep.

     

    Yellow line:

    Descent. We just kept traversing right. Trees, dead-end gullies, wind, cold, more trees, gullies, wind, cold. Need a tent and more daylight next time…

  2. I've been at the base of the last technical pitch last December - climbed Sunshine, than did a looong traverse to the left (55-60 degree snow slope). At this point, it was about 1000 ft or less from the summit. From there, downclimbing is a bitch.

     

    I'd like to climb the HW when there will be more snow in the gullies and the weather is cold.

  3. Last week, Ivan, Stas and myself climed Reid. At the top of the summit ridge we looked down and saw what appears to be the last section of the Eliot HW. confused.gif It looked like steep (70 degree) snow/ice slope and some rock. Anyone knows about the routes on the HW?

  4. No way on Yocum....That thing needs to be seriously frozen uo with rime and with a temp. inversion and freezing levels up to 10,800' I'd say get some skiezin' in.

    I'd call 6F seriously cold for Cascades - it stay like this for a week. thumbs_up.gif

    http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total_forecast/i...;lon=-121.70625

     

    Oleg, You were saying?????

    I am sorry to say, I told you so, but at least you got to play around on Reid....... rolleyes.gif

     

    I will trust general weather reports to NOAA but when it comes to site specific temps. I look straight to actual readings on the mountain and there was an inversion up there, meaning no ice or rime on Yocum....

     

    I was wrong, Ryland smile.gif The lower part was unfrozen mud, and the upper ridge had some ice. Ivan will post some pictures!

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