OlegV

Chad, I didn't realize you live that close to rock! How many potential lines are up there?

Of cause, I heard of DT nights - you guys have crazy schedule though - first, I have to get unemployed.

I'm light and stubborn

How did I miss dt?!

got something rolling this weekend - may get cancelled because of weather. Love to do Beackon Rock some day. Got to climb it in crampons though

You are right - first, I'd like to see good friendship development in Christmas bivy on Willis Wall. Here is some interesting TR from Cassin Ridge by Allen Sanderson: http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/ice/mk-allen.html

Looking for a partner to climb Cassin Ridge of Denali May-June 2006.

Geat job and TR! You guys have any pictures and the route line?

Congrats to you and Sky! I am really envy of you, Eric. You are a sick crazy grade V- climbing machine. I wish I haven’t been wasting all my time in the office this summer. We should do Cassin next summer.

Great job, Jason! Congarts!!!

You'll need them on the short and exposed section of the glacier at the base of the climb. Aluminum crampons are more than adequate.

Thanks!

Hey Chris, I'm thinking taking my kiddo to Ingalls Peak. Are there class 4-5.2 lines there?

sori, mai anglesh alweys get me in trobles!

That's what u want!

Climb: Mt. Stuart-NR and upper NE Face combo Date of Climb: 8/13/2005 Trip Report: Just like to many others, the label “classic climb” is a cause of the great inspiration for me and, often is a fair judgment of my personal achievements in climbing. After my last trip to Boston Basin, and encountering the whole bunch of crappy climbing, I finally decide not to fuck around with poor rock, and get on some high quality granite of Stuart. Turns out, Pete wanted to do the North Ridge for a long time, and was happy to join me. The plan was to climb the upper ridge, bivy below Gendarme and complete the route via whatever variation we feel like at this point. We leave Portland Saturday morning, hit the trailhead around 10 am and see our beautiful objective within 2 hours. View from the Ingalls Lake: From the lake - another two hours of scree/wet glacier hiking and scrambling, and we are at the base of the upper ridge. The welcoming “fuck-you” sign somewhere low on the ridge: At this point, the climbing becomes sweet as a fairytale. I can’t stop thinking that the route is architecturally constructed - perfect holds, awesome views and right exposure. We simul-climb moving very efficiently, and soon reach a beautiful crack. Pete leading the crack: Right before the sunset we pass two bivy sites and decide to climb farther up - past a knife ridge - to the base of Gendarme. Surprised by no suitable platform at the base of Gendarme, we downclimb back to the bivy sites and spend a chilly night at he ledges. Without sleeping bags, the night seemed long and cold. I count falling stars - four or five. We shiver wanting the night to be over. Finally, the stars slowly fade the first light strikes the sky: Next morning, we decide to skip Gendarme and try the NE face variation - left of Gendarme .The NE Face route starts low down on the east face of the NR where the bottom of the NR starts. The route skirts left the gendarme for 500' exactly as we did. Climbing without beta seems appealing to us. Traverse towards the NE face: We encounter a bunch of loose untouched rock covered with moss and dirt, but get through with no problems. Then comes some awesome 5.7-5.8 climbing. Pete following the best pitch of the day: Feeling close victory, we hit the smooth face with a visible crack. Pete is enthusiastic about getting through this slab: Unfortunately, a perfect crack turns into off-width crack and climbing stops. Our only option is is to go around - on snow (see it on the right of the slab). Pete does one foot postholing - one foot on rock combo lead (wearing rock shoes), I follow fully enjoying his boot tracks. From this tough spot, only minutes separate us from to the summit. On the way up we see a guy fast-soloing the NR and then Gendarme. Every 5 minutes he screams on the top of his lung “somebody is going to die!!!”. Is it a death wish to the others or hysteria. I am not sure. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, rope, medium rock rack. Approach Notes: Ingalls lake,

Buy CD "National Parks" - includes Rainier NP. Buy GPS - PC cable Download waypoint Total time - 3 minutes.

Awesome pics and TR! Congrats on safe return.

Wonder if somebody could give me some beta on the state of Stuart Glacier. Approaching the NR from the Goat Pass, are crampons and ice axes needed on glacier crossing and getting thru the couloir? I heard the glacier is mostly flat at this section. Thanks

Kautz, 8-6-5

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/480689/an/0/page/1#480689 Sahale Glacier is just a snow field, and if you stay to the right of it, you'll avoid crevasses:

I don't mind pushing my limits on a technical scale - why pushing objective danger?

Yes, it does look like Russian roulette. Here is a pic taken 3 weeks ago:

Donn, your pictures are awesome! I like your obsession for summit bivies. How much bourbon is needed per a summit day?