JosephH

Because it's coming from you maybe? Yes, it was nice of you to put a rope on that one, and yep, missed the move up on it for sure.

Well, given Beacon is a trad island in a sport ocean and has seen bolt skirmishes and the installation of a number of retro sport anchors and retro bolts on what were previously aid lines, who's to say what should and should not be bolted for the sake of the PDX community? P.S. I'd answer if I thought it was a serious question...

I dunna know, what's the difference between one of you and some sport dude who decides he want's to bolt Blownout to provide a wider opportunity for all?

Bears fans all look like the defensive line.

Rapping YW from the top is problematic at best. The work anchor wasn't for going in that direction and I wouldn't try going down YW from there. In fact, I can't think of a good way to rap YW without leaving gear at the top unless you wanted to go down to the last bolt on the last pitch and rap of it by itself. Even then you'd need two ropes. Rapping P3 and attempting to pull the rope would suck as well. Best is to climb it up to the P3 crux and rig something off those two pins, clean it, and then re-climb the whole thing. At least that was my plan for this coming full moon.

Chalk is definitely not the problem when I don't make it up Dods. Not really sure how much chalk really compensates for an extra 10-15 pounds around the gut, but probably not enough to bother with.

I've seen him do it, on Dod's, just below Big Ledge. I think I even have a photo of it. I'm sure it was only cause he forgot his chalk though. Yep, if I fuckup that sequence or am too out of shape it's all over pretty quick and I'm left dangling. It's usually either impossible or easy with seemingly no middle ground. Don't know why.

I don't think those three blocks are going anytime soon, but there are several at and just above the notch which could go any winter there's a heavy ice load. If they ever do they will all fall on the South Face side of the SE Corner likely causing more of a problem than these did.

Yes, the second block below the finish of YW was locked in well enough to stop the cascade of falling blocks. Had that not been the case it would undoubtedly kept going through the 'notch' and taken out at least the first blocks of the upper ramp. As it is, the blocks immediately adjacent and on the uphill side of the notch are all suspect, as are the outer blocks of the entire upper ramp finish. But for now at least, the block that stopped the cascade appears to be solid.

Could be, if he didn't have the weight and flexibility of a Kielbasa.

We ran out of gas and time during the cleanup for rapping / cleaning YW & LW, but that would be a good thing for someone to go out and do real early some day - if you do just keep an eye out for anyone coming down the trail.

Or, as Bill put it so succinctly on the other thread...

Yes, I did. Alex, there is a Fixed Protection Application you can get at the office. You basically fill it out, take some digital shots of where you propose it, explain why you want it, and then the application will get vetted and either approved or disapproved.

And as stated several times, they're temp work anchors and they'll be removed this time next year once we check the status of several more loose blocks. No one will be able to tell where they were. Again, where was your outrage about YW and all the other unnecessary bolts and anchors the were slammed into your sacred Beacon? Kind of a johnny-cum-lately on the outrage and indignation front.

Two hours for the corner w/ a stop, pretty good. I had two and half to hump three ropes, gear, shovel, and drill rig up to the top of the high corner ramp, fix a line and rap down to the rockfall scar, survey the scene, fix an anchor, and and be back at the parking lot to meet everyone for the cleanup. I did what was expedient and safe for myself and another person who was kind enough to volunteer to work off of. Again, it's a work anchor that I can remove and camo it in under 15 minutes so no one will ever know it was there. We weren't going up there to climb and it's not a climbing or ethics discussion, or can't you tell the difference? And why attempt to make it one?

No, I'm just really good at removing bolts and expoxing over the holes, so I don't have a problem putting in a temp work anchor in a fresh 60' rockfall scar where no one is going to see the epoxied over holes unless they do LW. All in all a lot of bold talk from a guy who didn't do the work and pleads for yet another unnecessary bolt on YW.

I'll let Bill speak for himself on how comfortable he'd have been doing the work we did with both of us yarding around for half a day from a couple of cams. Lot of big talk from a guy that wasn't there doing what Bill and I were doing. But then talk has always been your particular specialty. Unnecessary anchors? Yeah, I'm real guilty of that. If it were up to me most of the bolts and anchors on Beacon would disappear. I can only imagine the rage you must have expressed about the bolts when YW was being put up.

It's not a big deal as that particular anchor won't be there this time next year, we'll just want it next year's open to check the stability of a couple of large blocks.

That is a bummer. I was hoping it had stayed right of there. That handrail was very nice. This coming full moon I'll pitch anything left up there from the cleanup.

As we move into year 15 of 'The Persecution', bitching has been expanded to all 12 months, especially for those whose geographic or child-rearing status impedes them from enjoying Beacon now that it's open.

Pretty far off the mark Steve, I'm not the one who's life was 'ruined' by the bird and I don't think rock is 'dangerous'. Dave is closer to the mark, but as I keep saying, I'm not elitist, just selfish about getting all the days out there I can.

Unfortunately been pushed out two years - at least when I move, it will be to go do something I want to do, not because they closed the rock and 'ruined' my life here (not that you've been tearing it up in CO or anything).

Dude, name a single fact I've made up - it's not my gig. I'm no english major, maybe you have a better word to describe those who choose to adopt a lifestyle and personna of being persecuted; who revel and wallow with pride in the identity of being a victim?

Why stop being a stupid fuck now?

What Sarah really thinks about Mama Grizzlies (and damned if there isn't always a fat, short-dick, small-thinking, cocksucker out there to do the deed)