JosephH

The other night someone took a fall on the .10 start side of 'Free For All' which resulted in a broken [older] Mammut skinny sling which was girth-hitched around one of the two rock constriction points. Apparently the fall was arrested by a stopper in the base of the first large opening. Hopefully the leader wasn't hurt, and if not was lucky as this was a potential ankle breaker if the belayer wasn't right on it. Would like to know who this was in order to get a read on how old that sling was. As a side note, those constriction points shouldn't be girth-hitched with any thin sling material for exactly this reason. If you sling one of those constriction points it's way better ( and easier for the second) if you put the sling over the constriction and then clip both ends of the sling with one or both biners instead of girthing it.

I was kidding. Had the first season with lots of folks up to the high anchor, second with Shane tackling the biggest roof. Third season (last year) Shane went to Boulder / San Fran and I both never found anyone I felt comfortable going up there with and didn't get in quite good enough shape to do it before it started raining. Shane's is busy building a house now and I've yet found anyone else I'd be willing to go up on that pitch with besides him or Karsten. Trying to get in shape to give it another go this year - may or may not happen. Turn sixty next summer and may try to do the Diamond after having being invited out by Jim Detterline when he was at Beacon. If that happens I'll also try to wrap it up then if it doesn't happen this year. After that? Screw it, I'm getting to old for this shit.

Look, I know we're not friends, and you don't care for the way I do things, and we're in a back and forth argument about shit. But to quote James Coburn in Payback - "Man, that's just MEAN..."

Totally cute, Ben. Just a heads up that stuff does come down directly on the base of 'Rhythm Method'. While working on 'Menopause' I've cleaned up the whole base area one day and come back a week later to find new stuff down there.

It's pretty clear Off and guys like Eric Ulner in SoIll came to the conclusion that hot chicks actually prefer climbers with their own private, well-furnished crags. How are you going to argue the point? True, a hot tub at the base instead of some cheap bench might pull in a few more hotties, but how many do you need?

It doesn't look like a place where there would be much point in quibbling over the presence of bolts beyond their length and spacing. Glue looks like it could become more of an issue over time.

I didn't "place" them, but merely rebolted existing anchors. My gig didn't involve more than that and if were up to me personally, which it wasn't, a raft of them would be gone.

Why bring it up then...?

Hey, just say the word and I'd be more than happy to pull those anchors and any number of other climbs where they are clearly unnecessary...

Seems to me it pretty much boils down to whether a woman wants a man who has to rehearse the details thirty six times before actually getting around to doing the deed or one who just steps up and gets it done right the first time.

With the exception of six rebolts on YW (and talk about unnecessary bolts!), they weren't protection bolts, but rebolting of existing anchor bolts. Or is it that can't you tell the difference between the two...? P.S. And if it were up to me personally I'd have been chopping way more bolts than replacing...

If they did, they wouldn't call them 'jobs'...

The "which is worse, a bolt or Chernobyl?" 'environmental' argument is a moronic and blunt instrument at best. And from my perspective, outside of the degradation of areas due to the traffic bolts drive, it's a non-issue. Bolting as a primary driver of the overall climbing demographic and the redefinition of climbing is far more of an issue. This case sounds straightforward to me and not really one of either re- or retro-bolting, but rather a matter of whether an unnecessary bolt next to adequate pro needed to be replaced or removed. Pretty simple equation: is the pro adequate there for a competent trad leader of the grade or not? No? Replace the bolt. Yes? Remove the bolt. It ain't rocket science...

You had it right on the "(or not)" - if bolts evaporated overnight less than 20% of the demographic would be left standing tomorrow.

For better or worse, this is very true. -Chad And thus remains an excellent reason for not doing so...

Ya gotta know to know. No 'route maintenance' was done, but rather a lapse in judgment occurred.

If you're referring to the South Face tree cutter, then they need to stow the saw and not make a mistake like that again. If it was the person with the loppers who whacked all the small trees at the base, but left them standing, they also need to get a clue and knock it the fuck off. Both fall under the heading of real WTF moves and the one has not gone unnoticed.

Me too as it was one of my newer replacement pair and the old ones are about shot.

Thanks for the heads up, turns out [ranger] Ben found it down there and had it in his truck which was great given they don't make them any more. Steve, maybe this week...

Nate Turner's friends, climbing partners, friends of the family, and coworkers are warmly invited to a memorial service in celebration of Nate's life. Monday August 1, 2011 2pm Western Mennonite Church 9045 Wallace Rd. NW Salem, OR The ceremony will last approximately 45 minutes with an open reception immediately following

I know it wasn't bums that left the stripped engine block and dishwasher I hoisted out of there awhile back. I suspect the homeless who refuse services are a mix of both proud and challenged folks. Hard to blame them, particularly in these times.

Sorry for your loss, feel free to pm myself or just post up here for someone to show you around Beacon if you ever make it down. We can't replace Nate in that role, but would be happy to do what we can to see you enjoy yourself...

Black / Grey Sportiva Ventor... ...Would love to get it back.

It's not raining here in PDX...

The trail was surveyed this morning, and then reopened.