JosephH

Actually, wouldn't those technically be a whole bunch of short "run-on paragraphs" that use commas instead of periods? Obviously so sort of high tech compression technology from South of the Mason-Dixon line at work here...

I'll be out there by then doing anchors on the columns so give a shout...

Throw out some comparison climbs. Odd thing about ratings is Boulder Canyon always seemed harder to me than Eldo. How do you think Athlete's Feet compares? Seem harde rin my memory than FFS. Anyway ratings are always pretty darn subjective. On that we can definitely agree, I've always considered Boulder Canyon routes stiff by comparison to Eldo and I suspect it's back to the issue of how sustained a climb is and routes like AF are sustained if nothing else. I think the fact that we don't effectively convey how sustained a climb is (i.e. how many moves at that rating versus simply the level of the hardest single move) and that is often responsible for the disparities in how we percieve ratings as "hard" or "soft". Some areas and routes are hard and sustained, others have hard sections but are not sustained by and large. Young Warriors at Beacon has a couple of hard pulls on it but is pretty casual overall versus getting on one of the columns on the South face or Free For Some which are fairly sustatained by comparison. Take Devil's tower, get on one of those babies and if they say it's a 10c they probably mean a lot of 10c - not one move. There is also the issue of how familiar you are with the rock and style of climbing on it. I don't know about trying to come up with a route-by-route comparison as I guess I do it more on an area by area basis and even then it is just a "feeling" as to whether I'm being consistently sandbagged which means I'm either not "getting" how it's done there or someone is a sandbagger, or I find I'm cruising things which would definitly mean the ratings are soft.

At this point I've rope soloed it to the point where the first two pitches of the "SE Corner", which I rarely climb, are way, way more intimidating than the first two pitches of YW, particularly the top of the first pitch of the SE Corner. But - I still clearly remember my first time on it and I led all of the pitches that day. I was more challenged by the "butterfly" dihedral on the 3rd pitch and particularly by the [optional] slab move on the 4th. I was not with an experienced climber, had tons of rope drag, fast fading light, and Jim O. and the boys were giggling at me from the "Land of the Little People" once they found out it was my first time on the route. Every single person I've ever climbed it with or seen climb it jams the 2nd pitch A-frame crack which I simply can't fathom and I believe that is why most folks consider it a potential "crux" spot whereas I find the move 20 feet below it way more challenging by comparison. It is a definitely a favorite climb now, though, and quite unique in that there is a "secret" for absolutely every hard move on it and if you find them all it is just a hoot. And while it has a couple of bits more difficult, in my mind I find it very comparable in satisfaction and pleasure to my early experiences on the Bastille Crack in Eldorado (which was my first roped solo back in '75). YW is definitely a classic. Again, I suck so bad at jamming I wouldn't be the one to ask. I find it to be about that as a layback with a rough start getting into it, however.

Ah, sorry about that. I would have to disagree about Pipeline and Free For Some though; they would both be 11a's by Eldo or Gunks standards.

Peter, do you normally climb at Index? Rumors over the years all the way back to the 70's have it that it has always been inhabited by sandbagging somsofbiches and that the ratings there were pretty damn stiff compared to say an Eldo or the Gunks. Not having been there I can't say if that's true or not (or if you are one of those somsofbiches), but if so that could be why Beacon seems a bit soft to you.

Matt Kaylor replaced the anchor on "Blownout" two years ago. The lower Steppenwolf anchor was just replaced by Arndt (sp) who is due thanks for the work on it. Yes, again we are considering more of a fast-draining aggregate than a soil and hope to provide some mechanical protection from foot traffic in the process - for everyone reading this, please try to avoid stepping on the tree's roots if at all possible, thanks. This has been the "root" of most of our discussions on the topic. The bottom line though, is that more than a dozen parties were observed rapping straight off the tree last season. We have no idea what would possess anyone to do this rap and, as we've stated repeatedly, it is one of the lousiest raps imaginable; but people continue to do it regardless of the presence of the rap rings. So the question at hand is how to protect the tree. The options are either a) do nothing and watch the bark continue to be further grooved, b) install anchors in rock up there, c) install the webbing and rings. After much discussion option "c" was chosen because doing nothing wasn't an option and there is a lot of opposition to installing anchors on the ledge. The compromise of webbing / rings is just that, but we will be installing a tag on the rings asking folks not to do the rap. The issue is far from settled and brass signage directly on the tree is also now being talked about. Yep, sucks beyond all imagination and the incredible lack thereof. No problem, and we very much appreciate your comments...

I only use lockers with screamers when one is part of a roped solo anchor - Dru's suggestion of using wiregates with them is the way to go... The old, horizontally bar tacked "Air Voyagers" made a rapid rat-tat-tat sound like a machine gun going off...

I think that on the whole Beacon ratings are about right with a very few execptions either way. One thing to keep in mind is our rating system doesn't provide any good, clear designation for how sustained a route is so it could have one move of 5.10d or and entire route pitch move after move at that rating. I think that accounts for a lot of folks perceptions of the classic pitch on Blownout. There are also some unique attributes about Beacon relative to really getting to know how the rock works that come into play; Young Warriors can be a 5.10a for folks that don't "get" how it works, or a 5.7+ with three or four .8-.9ish moves on it if you do. In a similar vein, some climbs are really more about your skills at resting than climbing - missing all the key rests up Windsurfer makes it a fairly pumpy and sustained affair, get them all and it is breezy and casual with a couple spots you actually have to put out.

Ffej, sent you a PM... The protocol at the moment is each piece of fixed pro needs to be pre-approved by the BRSP. We are working with them in the context of the Climbing Management Plan (CMP) to streamline that process so approval is done on a per route basis intead of per piece basis. Anyone feels fixed pro is needed on on a new or existing route should PM me, email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com, or contact Ranger John Ernster directly before doing so. In either case the baseline protocol and tradition at Beacon is try it with gear first, use pins if necessary, use [camoe'd] bolts only as an last resort and then only where absolutely necessary(existing protection bolts are being slowly camoe'd as part of the Anchor Replacement Project (ARP)). Again, we will be working with the BRSP staff relative to streamlining the new route process in the course of their revising and updating the CMP, but that work will be taking place this winter after the closure. [Note: Pincraft is fast becoming a lost art, but pins are the traditional form of fixed pro at Beacon and work fabulously in the rock at Beacon both in regards to placement and the fact they do not loosen with time or weathering there. By the time the ARP wraps up, if you see a pin we can assure you you can clip it with the same confidence you clip a bolt. And if you think a route needs a new or replacement pin at Beacon then contact us at the BRCA and our technical committee will take up the matter and if the decision is made to go ahead we'll work with BRSP to get their buy-in and then happily do the deed or supply them along the gear and a quick course in nailing. Be aware we know some pins are bad but are leaving them (along with certain anchor components, fixed wires, bashies, etc.) as historical artifacts; a useless angle on the SE Corner ramps is one such pin]

Me too, Bill - hope you heal up soon...

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/26/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project We clearly need to do a better job of thanking Bill Coe for his prodigious generosity in support of the project before he takes all his toys back...

Well, if that were the only alternative to no t-shirts then you might have to just dig into it and see what you could do to streamline the whole process - or at least that's what we're trying to do. Come out and go climbing with me sometime.

Ffej, Thanks for the input on the tree. I'm also an ex-hort. and arborist and I agree there's no stopping natural processes. We're more interested in remediating some of the human impact on the tree such as the substantial bark grooving from folks rappelling directly off the tree and damage to roots, etc. from traffic. We're not thinking of a classic loam soil mix at all, but more of a well-drained, native gravelly mix as much for weight and mechanical protection than anything else. Most of the retention would be between the roots as opposed to trying to load the whole ledge up. Thanks again for your thoughts on it all and we'll give you a shout when we're closer to the work and maybe you and I could go up and look at the situtation together.

That's a lot of barking for .02 cents - we're always glad to see folks personally stepping up to the plate like this to contribute something productive towards keeping the place open... P.S. Come to think of it, " I am not a stiff tool " would undoubtably make a great addition to your line of catchy alpine apparel.

Beacon Rock Update 9/25/05...

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/25/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project The Best Laid Plans...: Well, the plan to work East from "Flying Dutchman" towards "Blownout" has been put on hold after a survey the lower Grassy Ledges comprising the tops of "Blownout" and its neighbors and another survey of the tiers from "Little Wing" to "Blownout". We do have to consider the danger of potential rockfall during our work and, simply put, a sizeable loose rock load has built up across the lower and upper Grassy Ledges making work there problematic. Some of this work will have to be deferred to either next years pre-opening work session or a mid-week closure later this fall. So we've switched to the backup plan and have started working West from "Flying Dutchman". "Ground Zero" and Big Wall Practice: Anchor replacements West of "Flying Dutchman" have commenced with "Ground Zero" which is in the middle of the South face columns. It is on the left side of the leftmost of a several broken column roofs when looking up from the trail. This is another spectacular climb and good practice zone for anyone considering going down to the Valley to do an El Cap route. The mid-route anchor is a classic valley anchor with four bolts in a row side-by-side. This is a perfect setting for a portaledge as the columns flatten out at this spot so the anchor is against a "wall" as opposed to in a notch between two columns. Setting up camp on a wall can be a challenge so use this route for practicing your bivy skills. "Flying Dutchman" Rap: Once again we wanted to suggest you use this rap off the Grassy Ledges if you are a competent and experienced rappeller comfortable with intermediate raps that have no standing ledges. You can get down this rap with pretty much any cord from a single 50 meter on up and you can get down in one shot with two 60 meter ropes. Using this rap will minimize any log jams on the traditional SE Corner descent rap and so also minimize potential rock fall that rap can sometimes generate when folks aren't careful. Safety Issues Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: As we've been reminding you there is lots of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges and yesterday we had a pretty serious incident of a football-sized rock getting launched from the ledges from above tunnel #1. We don't have the specific details, if you do send me a PM or email the Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com account. Again, this is deadly serious business and you MUST manage every footfall and rope movement when up on Grassy Ledges. If you are going to traverse the ledges with a rope from the point you hit them from the "SE Corner" then watch your rope like a hawk and clip a tree, bush, or put in a piece to keep the rope off the ground to the degree possible. If traversing on past the standard descent rap on your way up to the "Land of the Little People" Ledge or the "Flying Dutchman" rap then by all means clip that rap anchor on your way by it. Do whatever you have to do to keep your rope off the ground where it can launch rocks and be very, very careful how and where you step traversing the ledges. Another incident of this nature will likely trigger a temporary closure so that Grassy Ledges can be cleaned before climbing can resume. General Issues Dogs: Many folks we like and regard as good climbers and great company have dogs and bring them with them to Beacon. Part of the point of the re-founding of the BRCA is to restore relationships with the various agencies of record involved with managing Beacon and we are heavily focused on clear communication and complying with both State and Park rules and operating transparently within the bounds of the Climbing Management Plan. Part of those rules pertain to dogs and clearly state that dogs must be leashed and further must be under the physical control of their owner at all times. Every climber we've seen bring a dog so far has clearly decided these rules don't apply to them or their dog and that "their dog" would never cause any problems. This unfortunately is beginning to become an issue that is attracting more attention. Every dog owner no matter who they are in a climbing context needs to understand these rules do apply to them and their dogs. Also, be prepared to pack out your animal's waste as we've now had three complaints from climbers who've stepped in you know what. We understand it's a complete drag, but please comply with these rules if you are going to bring your dog out. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

Beacon Rock Update 9/23/05

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/23/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: Flying Dutchman has been cleaned and restored to climbable and protectable condition, enjoy... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association

NOLSe has your bootie and will be out there tomorrow so track him down...

That has sometimes been the case, but it has also happened that the climbers who react against sport climbing to wage the bolt wars and draw land owners or land managers into those conflicts actually cause the access problem, and trad climbing itself has also caused access problems. If the community cannot, or more likely chooses not to police itself, then given the relentless march of bolting you can expect more Ken Nichols. But if were going to play politics, let's not play games - the bolters and bolts going in inapproptiately are the core problem with the odd Ken Nichols, bolts coming out, and those that "react" merely a symptom of a larger "consumer" consumption pattern and appetite. Almost all access issues are related to the overall population growth of "climbers", 70% or so of whom can not "climb" without entirely bolted lines. Problems associtated with trad climbing and climbers barely register as a blip by comparison.

Sport climbing started a couple of years before gyms, but it is the product of gyms - climbers dependent on totally bolted lines - that are causing the access problems. You're the one pissing on the history of climbing, sport. One can only assume you consider it a sad history and not to be regarded with much credence or respect. There are a lot of us who lived and climbed through about three decades or more of that history that still do and don't care much for the impact of climbers that view "safe" climbing and a bolt every six feet as an entitlement qualifying for a new amendment to the Bill of Rights. No doubt... Heading out to do just that, thanks.

"Leave something boltless" - how kind and generous of you. How about keep it simple, don't bolt in the wilderness and especially don't "safely connect" lines. No doubt the initial rationale for Ignorant Bliss Simple again, don't turn alpine climbing into "sport alpine" by creating alpine sport routes. Here we agree... I could not disagree more, there are already too many "climbers" who are totally unself-reliant and wholly dependent on purely bolted lines. Bolting rock to sustain their consumption and the relentless transgressions of a small percentage of their very large numbers is the problem with land use policies. More climbers cause the problems, not solve them.

Well the problem is they keep wanting to build ski resorts in the backcountry and climbings the same. And my point exactly is climbing is only that way now after 20 years of support of bolts and gyms. "Recreational" "climbers'" bolts keep encroaching and some of us do not care to see every line in the US grid bolted to entertain bored suburbanites. Or are you one of those types that whine when someone encroaches on your particular playpen. You obviously don't mind which is fine, but you'll have to deal with a few of us remnants of your obviously sad past. And folks wonder how the Ignorant Blisses happen - is it utter cluelessness or are you just too distracted entertaining yourself to be bothered?

Either way you need a helmet, but if it's a UFO then your helmet should be lined with aluminum foil...