astrov

thanks for re-posting, John ... I later learned how to access pics by user search in the gallery. We did go up last weekend- things looked very promising, although it was cloudy. (Killer approach, by the way.) While leading the second pitch, I knocked some serious choss down. Shouting confirmed that sjwages (belayer) was okay, so I continued up, comfortable with the fact that the olympics are a chossy range. I was pretty run out on easy terrain when I reached a somewhat off-width crack with a fragile looking alpine tree/shrub which I slung. I struggled up into the crack where I was able to stand comfortably, and placed a nut, finally. Then belayer shouted up- "Ian, we had better retreat ... the rope's cut in half!" There were only 10-15 (?) feet left of rope before he would have to pass the cut-through section through. Apparently one of the choss bombs I had sent hurtling down the mountain cut the rope in half. So I took the nut out and downclimbed. We backed off the two-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch ... which explains why there is a nice, bright new yellow sling, two rap rings, and one biner there. (Booty call!) We probably could have simul-climbed but we weren't sure exactly what we were in for, and didn't really discuss our options at the belay station before bailing on the rope with the cut section tied-out. Maybe we'll try again this weekend, I don't know. In any event, thanks for the re-post of the photos. Also looking forward to TR of Destroyer and Enigma.

not sure if you're refering to us- but we were on that route last weekend and didn't see any smoke ... if you know where the cliffs are on a topo, look here and compare: (website with info. about fire) http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic/conditions/

Thanks for reviving this thread, there has been some great discussion here. In parituclar I like what Norman_Clyde said (reminds me of that story in "The Pugilist at Rest" by Thom Jones featuring a badass ER doctor) and what stonehead offered about Promethean urges. I was writing in a journal at the time you all were discussing this online- at the time I didn't have internet access. So here is what I had been thinking. Kind of a variation on the Promethean theme. Discuss. Attach additional pages if necessary. (Don't worry, it's not about Lord Jim). 11-24-05 An air of heroism is necessary if one is to see oneself as a celestial being, fixed bright above the benighted, quotidian, pathetically egalitarian crowd. As Josef Conrad observes near the beginning of "Lord Jim", it is easy to bow to the law's common demands, but it is only the crucible of catastrophe that can expose weakness in a man hitherto unsuspected. In these grave, momentous climaxes, no legal system can direct him. He can rely only on the semblance of self-possession and mastery which he may have accumulated in fits and starts through life if his cool head is to prevail. Some seek these mettle-testing trials, but making any preparation for them seems to mute the brightness of the triumphant ring that follows when these challenges are invariably dispensed of forthwith. This is why mountaineering literature seems to be an exercise in authorial ambiguity; with all presented facts militating towards impressing the reader of the author's qualification, modesty, expertise, and general providence in selecting Mt. Death as his next summit, and at the same time strongly suggesting the insanity, brutality and impossibility of the task before him, given his present bad luck, illness, equipment shortage, etc. The goal of adventure (broad generalization) is that glorious catharsis that comes from cheating death, from ascending above the mere equalizing prohibitions of societal law, and instead tempting the laws of Fate itself; no, not just tempting, but letting them squeeze your family jewels in a vise, since at this high level of engagement, the prohibitions of Fate take on a personalized, specific nature, like "Don't climb Mt. Death given that you haven't had a sip of water in nearly two days, and have dropped one of your ice axes, have no oxygen, and a storm is setting in, and night is falling, &c." Furthermore, the flirtation with death becomes so intimate that the actual point at which probability cannot be thwarted any longer becomes immediate and tangible. A mountaineer can see that death awaits only a few steps higher, and can see the spot in the snow quite clearly where, if he were to dare, there would be no more endeavor. Mountaineers have turned back a hundred feet from the summit (and less!) after spending years approaching the place. The thrilling specificity of the prohibition is the enticement. If you, mountain climber, proceed any farther on this particular climb, on this day, given the conditions around you, you will die. This is not a general moral precept applicable to the slothful, indulgent many!

"Endurance" by Alfred Lansing

sjwages and I are planning on doing this route on Saturday. So hopefully we will have something up.

heh heh. Yes, but I'm sure the Whitney-G has seen 10x as many ascents as any route in Washington has seen ... so it's not THAT obscure. Just wait and I'll build consensus.

for fun, could you re-post the pictures or something?

does this remind anyone else of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Canon Cliff in New Hampshire? Not the climbing, per se, but the feature itself (big granite ridge, similar color rock ...)

good night, "little horse".

sjwages, I left my cellphone in your car. send me a pm and we can work out its recovery

pm sent.

I have gear, car ... you have new book with topo! Also, if you have some other objective in the cascades that looks good, let me know; maybe I can be convinced to drive over there instead.

I have no plans for this week, monday-thursday. so let's climb something- mountaineering, alpine ... pretty much whatever as long as it's not too hard. I have gear. But no car. I can meet in Tacoma.

Whidbey, thanks for leading the charge up the mountain. I had a picture of the route to put in the gallery but the upload turned sour. The route is indeed in great shape though. Ski it while you still can!

"Parkwide policies for wilderness management are proposed, setting the foundation for the Wilderness Management Planning process, now scheduled to begin in late 2007." What does this mean? Cellphone towers? Has anyone read the 400 page screed?

Anyone want to climb Mt. Cruiser / Alpha early this week? I can leave Monday but would like to be back Wednesday night. Or, know of other viable (not too chossy) rock routes in the olympics? (I don't have the Olympic Mountain Rescue Guidebook so you'd have to fill me in.) I am much closer to the Olys and would rather stay on the west side of the Narrows Bridge. If you want to do some wild-ass adventure like the Valhallas I am open to that too, only, after the 28th. I have car and gear.

My partner bailed on me. I have car and gear. Let's go tomorrow and try to summit early morning tuesday. We were planning on doing the North face but I am open to other suggestions and other mountains. I am also free this whole week. And in general, for a month. Heh.

I would like to buy some glacier glasses- don't have to be in perfect shape: I just don't want to have to go spend $80 on some new ones. Also, gaiters. Something like the OR crocs. Shell pants- pref. gore tex, size large. and maybe a fluke or two? PM me.

donny, you're out of your element

by an odd turn of fate I want to head up ben nevis on the 10th of April. Anyone want to join / can point me in the right direction for a place to rent gear or to some climbing friends in Scotland? I wasn't planning on doing any mountaineering on this trip and donćt have any gear or beta on th emountain ... I think I onlz need crampons and an ax right? Damn this Croatian kezboard.

hey, I might go to school in Eugene but would like to know more about the climbing options before I commit to a place so far from the mountains with which I'm familiar ... what's the nearest climbing? Is there any climbing on the oregon coast? What are the options within a 2 hours drive? And is ice totally out of the question? sorry that this is a question and not a route report. All apologies.

This jacket needs no introduction. It's in very good to like new condition. (No noticeable signs of wear. But I have worn it a couple times, but carefully so.) Asking $270 + shipping. But make offer. Color: Azul.

I'm thinking about moving to Portland, so I would like to get a feel for the typical options for ice. How far away are they from the city? How much? Is there any ice at all? And no, don't get mad, I'm not asking for you to reveal your secret and coveted ice floes ... if there even are any. I'm just debating going to school in Vermont vs. Portland, and one of the considerations is the general quality and quantity of ice climbing in the area, and how far I'd have to drive to enjoy it ...

still feeling like Penelope, spinning my tapestry, rejecting suitor after suitor, waiting for the true Odesseus

bump. (I believe that's the right term.) I still need some boots. Those are too soft. I want some boots for vertical ice.