Fuggedaboudit

I am very happy withthe Hightech Altimax. Its $139 now: http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/produc...47%204294966814 It clips nicely to your harness or pack- I always ended up clipping my old altimeter watch to my harness anyway. If you are doing anything remotely technical and wearing gloves, youll probably end up doing the same.

Anyone know where to get it?

Not a tech genius or anything but you might want to consider that an alpine climbing helmet is designed to protect the top of your head from ice and rockfall, even more so than impact with the ground. Snowboard helmet is designed to protect against ground impact. Also, try putting on a snowboard helmet and an alpine pack with 2-3 days of gear and tilt your eyes up like you were belaying your friend or leading. Does the back of the snowboard helmet hit the top of the pack, pushing it down over your eyes? Snowboard type helmet also might not work w/ most headlamps. Lastly, if it covers your ears can you hear your partner when he says "on belay" around a corner 60 meters away in the wind? I'm not saying, I'm just saying...depends on what type of climbing you have in mind I guess.

I have the Arcteryx Gamma MX- next to my La Sportiva Nepal Evos might be my favorite piece of clothing gear. Maybe 60 days alpine/ice use in total and they are still in great shape. Have worn them on Mt. Washington and at Lake Whiloughby in the single digits with wind- still warm enough with the midweight capilene. I think these are heavier than the AR pants but I think they are also warmer. The side pockets are perfect location/size. One peice of your clothing system that you never have to screw with once its on. They are easy to stich up/patch. Since you asked about warmer, I have been on Rainier in June and July and in the afternoon you are hot in them, but I always find that its easy to strip down the upper body layers, take off the gaiters and be OK. Yes they are expensive but you wont need a new pair for a LOOOONG time.

Thanks for the info guys. My problem is that we havent been able to get a decent map of where all these huts/cabins/trailheads are. I tried to buy an out of print guidebook but nobody had it in stock. It must have sounded a bit dumb asking about a cabin 500 yards from the parking lot. We'll shoot for it in a day, if conditions are slow then a short bivy somewhere along the way and over to the South side and down the next. I will definetely post pics and a TR with approach conditions. Also will be trying out a half sleeping bag/DAS parka bivy system, will let you all know exactly how much that sucks if I have to use it-yes I know, "if you bring bivy gear you will bivy".

Tilly Jane A frame- sounds like a nice option. I know the NF is done in a day, but I figure thats with fair to decent conditions on the approach, and that the approach starts at the Cloud Cap parking lot. If we were starting from Tilly jane (or farther away if roads damaged/washed out) then it wouldnt be realistic to do it in a day. The "hut" option would allow us to get there the day before and get an early start the next day. It also allows us to carry minimal sleeping gear. BTW who do I contact to register for the A Frame and get some more info?

Hope that the worst of the flooding is over for you guys. We are going to be a party of 3 trying for the NF of Hood 2nd week of December. First time on Hood. Just learned that there is a hut/shelter at 7000' on Cooper Spur. Is it a reasonable place to bivy for the night if attempting the NF? How far/long is it from Cloud Cap parking lot? Is it open in December? How long/far from this "hut" to the base of the NF couloirs?

I am very happy with the pair of phoenix ropes that I bought last fall. Used them ice climbing this winter and took one of them this June on Liberty Ridge. For ice climbing they are awesome, you might consider the 70M option. I had thought about buying a 30m rope for Lib Ridge but felt that the 2lbs in weight savings from a 30m rope did not = safety of longer rope in crevase rescue situation for party of 2. I was happy that we had the extra length when we pitched out parts of the climb. I also like them cause they come in red and blue which are easy to tell apart and are easy to yell out to the belayer when you are around a corner ("blue!" doesnt sound like "red!"). Be warned though they tangle up like a bitch when new, the first time you toss them for rappel you will be in for a nasty suprise if you dont run a belay device through them a few times end to end to get out the twists. It is also guaranteed that you be telling your friends to "yeah just step all over the ropes with the f-ing crampons" at every belay- they are thin! I have thought about buying a joker or serenity and cutting it down to 50M, and bringing a second static line (maybe 5-6mm) for rapping. Just not at the level of skill for the type of climbs that would justify such a hot-rod setup.

Interested in one of the NF couloirs the first week of December. Never been to Hood before, so have a few questions about logistics since we are in the planning stages. Since I've never been there before, pardon what may be stupid questions in advance. I tried to buy the guidebook but its out of print. Will cloud cap parking lot be open first half of December? How far is it from cloud cap parking lot to "tie-in rock"? How far is it from cloud cap parking lot to north face bergshrund? If we decide to hike in the night before and bivy at tie-in rock the night before do we have to pay any park fees or get any special permits? How far is it from Timberline Lodge to Cloud cap parking lot- we are thinking about stashing a car at Timberline so we can descend the South side. Thanks.

I've sold lotsa gear to friends, almost always 50%. What is 10% either way between friends? Recently sold almost a full rack to my buddy who is wanting to learn to lead. It was all in good condition, sold it for 50%, maybe even less. Thing is whenever I need it I can always borrow it, and most of the time he'll be with me anyway. If either of you still feels guilty about something pound 2 sixpacks together and you'll end up at 50% I guarantee it.

Goatboy- sent you a PM.

I have used both Gi-Gi and Reversino (smaller ropes). Use them for ice climbing with 8mm ropes. I personally prefer the Gi-Gi, it is smoother for autolocking the second(s)than the Reversino, esp when the ropes ice up. As for rapping the Gi-Gi is far superior, works great again when your ropes are a bit wet and frozen. With the Gi-Gi (as you all know already) you have to remember to flip it one way for belaying second and another for rapping. If you are afraid youll screw this up just spraypaint one side a different color. Finally I have had more than one climbing partner tell me I was "on belay" with reversino only to check it and find out he had put the ropes in backward (brake hand over the sharp side and ropes to me over the smooth side)which you cant do with ATC or other devices that belay leaders. Old style ATC plus Gi-Gi weighs about the same as the ATC Guide.

"belaying Willy above the Black Pyramid"

OK, here are links to some photos that are in the "gallery" of this website. I still cant figure out how to actually add the photos here, if anyone knows how, please just add the pics here. Glacier Basin looking at St. Elmo's Pass http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561022_004-thumb.JPG St. Elmo's Pass camp http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561St-thumb.jpg Traversing from St. Elmo's to Curtis Ridge http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Traversing_wintrop_towards_Curtis_Ridge- Camp on the Carbon Glacier http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561009_017-thumb.JPG Nice view from the tent http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561008_018-thumb.JPG Good shot of the route as it looked 6/6/06 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561LR_Route_from_Carbon_camp-thumb.jpg Belaying Willy somewhere above the Black Pyramid http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Belaying_Willy_top_of_Black_Pyramid-thumb.jpg Our camp below what I thought was Liberty Cap morning of day 5 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561004_022-thumb.JPG Willy and me about ready to head down, taken by those two guys from Montana http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/5561Me_and_Willy_on_top_day_5-med.jpg

I just posted some photos in the "gallery". How do I add them here?