jport

Does anyone know if Lolo Pass Road to French's Dome is clear of snow now?

The Lake Oswego crag has several short (4-5 bolts) sport routes. They range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.9ish. I spent a half-day out there a few weeks ago. It's entertaining climbing but certainly not fulfilling.

Sounds promising. I've wanted to get back on the crater rim ever since the activity in 2004.

I prefer the 5.10 Ascent for longer all-day trad routes. Similar fit as the 5.10 Galileo (which I use for face climbing) but with the Stealth rubber sole. Personally, I love the ease-of-adjustment that a velcro closure provides.

Ditto to Crackers' comments. My alpine rope is a Mammut. My rock ropes are Sterling. Not sure if Sterling has good ice lines or not.

I understand and appreciate what you are saying. Obviously, we're not going to launch right into the harder multi-pitch climbs. We'll have three days of climbing in Yosemite to figure out our skill levels and abilities. Single-pitch routes have always been part of the plan. My original Post was to find a few routes that we can work towards and make our finale.

Indeed, I have never climbed in Yosemite before. I have only hiked in the Valley (Half Dome Loop) and Tuolumne area (Vogelsang Loop). I'm quickly learning the diversity of climbs that Yosemite has to offer. The organizer of the trip has 30+ years climbing experience. Another leader has 15+ years. I've been climbing for 6 years. Lastly, the other adult has only been climbing for 2 years.

Thanks for all the input. We are aware of all the challenges, hazards, and considerations that need to be made when taking younger climbers to Yosemite. Safety has always been our main concern and we intend to emphasize the same on this trip. We are also aware of the fact that this is still very early for climbing in Yosemite. We'll be keeping an eye on the forecasts and may need to adjust our itinerary accordingly. Lastly, we are aware of the difficulties of managing climbing parties of three people on small ledges and trad anchors. That is why I'm taking the time to research suitable routes for our group. In the end, our number one goal is to provide an opportunity for the students to have fun and learn. Pinnacles and Yosemite represent two very different types of climbing. Hopefully, the exposure to both will be valuable experience for everyone.

Thanks for the report! I had tossed around the idea of climbing via Gib. Ledges two weeks ago. I'll be keeping my eyes on the forecast in the coming weeks.

Obviously Smith is very different than Yosemite. Our intention is not to crowd/monopolize routes. The original purpose of my post was to find some classic multi-pitch routes. If we can find an area that has several good routes, in close proximity, that would be a bonus. Back to the subject: Does anyone have other route recommendations?

There will be a total of six students and four adults. Most of the students' experience comes from climbing at Smith Rock. This will be their first time in the Valley. This is an opportunity for them to see/study famous routes, experience Yosemite rock, and get more excited about climbing. Obviously, we are going to be very safety-conscious. We also have great respect for the tradition and environment of Yosemite.

Thanks for the cautionary notes. I should have noted that our "teams" will probably be no more than 3 people on each route. That considered, I'd like to find areas that offer more than one good multi-pitch.

Time to escape the winter weather in Portland! I'm heading to California in two weeks for some early-season trad. climbing. Our plan is to climb at Pinnacle Nat. Monument for a few days then drive to Yosemite N.P. and spend three days in the Valley. I'm helping lead a group of enthusiastic teenagers with limited climbing experience and would like to get them on some classic multi-pitch routes in Yosemite. We are going to limit our scope to climbs in the 5.6-5.9 range. So far my list includes: Nutcracker, After Seven, The Grack, and Munginella. Any other suggestions or routes that shouldn't be missed. Let's not even discuss the weather... I have my fingers crossed that conditions will warm up a bit in the Valley. Thanks!

We went two summers ago and found the schrund easily-passable. However, we began the climbing up an unknown gulley/ramp. Still not sure that we were on route. Seeing all the abandoned slings, it looks like every square inch of that side has been climbed. Nonetheless, it was entertaining and awesome climbing! Thanks for the route description. It will be helpful the next time I'm up there.

At what point did you all unrope? Sounds like you started the descent as a rope-team. Thank the stars and mountain gods that there wasn't a more serious outcome. Yikes!

Buyer beware... if you demand performance you have to be an informed shopper. A little research and common sense would have prevented the whole ordeal in the first place.

Ditto to Mattd and FenderFour... REI's selection is pretty limited for technical gear. The local shops have the more specialized goods. However, I do capitalize on the REI Outlet Clearance deals. Sadly those are all non-dividendable purchases, though.

I spent last Saturday afternoon climbing the routes along the railroad tracks in Lake Oswego, OR. We were able to guesstimate the grades of the climbs on the SW face. However, we're not sure what the two bolt lines on the SE face are. I think the middle line is a 5.9+. The route to the left is stiff! Does anyone know more info.?

Having been on the mountain the day of the accident (our group left "the crawl" area mere minutes before Katie's fall), I've been sobered by how unfortunate all of this has been. It's really put things into perspective: climbing can be dangerous no matter your skill level and objective hazards do exist. We all understand those risks, accept them, and, therefore, reach such lofty places that inspire us. Our bonds with each other and the environment are strengthened by what we learn on the trail and in the mountains. I did not know Katie, but I gather that she had a deep respect for the mountains and was a good friend. It sounds like she was an amazing person. Bless her soul. I saw Katie and her group at the alcove before the final pitch to the summit. I distinctly remember how everyone up there seemed to be having a great time- glorious weather, joking, and laughter. Indeed, it was a beautiful day.

I think we should include: BF- Beer bottle fall danger (Rocky Butte) P- Pornography distractions (Rocky Butte)

I'll do my best!

Lowell- Great gear tips... that's exactly what I wanted to read.

Our group of three is planning to complete the traverse in two long days. Day One: approach scramble to Torment Basin/Taboo Glacier, Southeast face, bivy. I've been told that there are several suitable bivy spots along the ridge just east of the Southeast face climbing route. (There is also a larger "camp" area on the west col beside Torment- though it doesn't fit into a Southeast face climb). Day Two: Complete traverse along ridge to Forbidden via West Ridge, Rap/downclimb West Ridge or NE face (TBD), hike out of Boston Basin to the car. Simulclimbing and efficient teamwork should allow a comfortable climb inside of two days. Of course, other people have done the entire route in one day (we would rather savor the views and enjoy a stellar bivy on the ridge).

Yes, we'll likely be doing alot of simulclimbing over 4th-class and low-5th class rock. It's good to know that there are lots of horns to hitch along the W. ridge of Forbidden. I've heard mixed reports of the quality/soundness of the rock up there. Last year, a group of friends bailed off the ridge due to poor rock (among other factors). We'll likely take a picket (or two) with us. "Winter"- who dat? Last weekend we were at Smith. Too much: has left you confused.

We're planning to work the Torment-Forbidden Traverse this weekend: Taboo Glacier, Southeast Face of Torment, Ridgeline traverse, West Ridge of Forbidden, Boston Basin. Does anyone have any gear beta to share? I'd like to thin my rock rack out and go light. Also, would you take a picket or two for the ridgeline snow traverses? Any info will be helpful. Thanks!