treknclime

I was snowshoeing down the Kahiltna Glacier with a group, after a trip up the W Buttress, when a quake hit. We were just below Kahiltna Pass...when large chunks of ice fell off all sides of the the glacier walls, off every face. Not super huge icefalls, but big enough to make one stop and wonder what was going on. We paused for a moment, and then guessed we had just witnessed the effects of an earthquake. We didn't feel anything while walking, since we were moving along at a pretty good clip, dealing with the sleds and the route. Upon return to BC, we confirmed it was a quake. Kind of an eerie experience, actually. It was soo quite just before it happened, and then noise from all directions.

Yes, looks good. Consider inncluding the BD looking arch in the gate, to assist with opening.

FOUND: Right Salomon Shoe @ Headlight Point Size 9.5, low-top. Green & brown shoe, brown laces. In good shape. PM me if it's yours, and we'll connect.

When the Paradise Loop road is open, driving down from Paradise, there is a rock buttress and a slab on the E side (left side) of the road (W side of Mazama Ridge). There were some TR bolts up top (placed years ago), but I understand the rock they were placed on...may have slipped and fallen down to the road. It's been awhile since I've seen anyone on the buttress. The old retaining wall below the old Jackson Memorial Center was several yards long, and good for traversing. I don't remember if they tore that down with their recent work there. For any climbing above the road...if there's cars below, I doubt the law enforcement rangers would allow it nowadays...due to the rockfall danger, so with the venue that I suggested...and Raindawg's, beware. Your best bet is to check with the climbing rangers, and let them know you're working for GSI (?), and I imagine they'll make some reasonable suggestions that'll be cool with everyone.

These USGS guys that you "reserve judgment" on don't have a mandate to rescue or help anyone, but they put their lives on the line when they at least tried to help that climber, which is very admirable. The details how and what they did are actually insignificant. Contrast the USGS efforts on St. Helens to save the climber yesterday, against the Seattle Metro security officers and and POLICE, who stood by and did nothing when that young lady begged for help...and then got beat up, as we witnessed on the recent video. Both groups of people are public servants. It's interesting to see the difference in how people go out of their way, beyond their mandate, to help or not help those in need.

I have plenty of photos that show Raindawg clipin' bolts in his younger years. It's funny how time and aging changes folks attitudes. RD...that really ought to be part of this discussion...how time changes one's approach to ethics, the mountains, and all sorts of things. Chime in anytime about this, Raindawg. Another part of the discussion worth addressing, perhaps, does dialog such as we've all witnessed here...create a meaningful exchange of information and illuminate stakeholder's positions, or does it polarize things to the extent that everyone burrows in even deeper. Also, does it polarize the witnesses and spectators?? Is there a middle position, RD? If so, where is it? Or is it all or nothing?? Keep it real, Raindawg...aka...Ice Man.

The old Genie was schweet...the inside top pocket zipper was an issue, but looks like that's fixed. This new Genie is a worthy pack...will put it on my list. A good value as well. Used the old model for up to 3-day trips...super light program that way. Steve House once mentioned to me he used the old Genie when he did Foraker way back when.

AlpineBEAU.509...ohhhh...do you mean "Narada Falls," the takeoff point for the Tatoosh area in the winter??

Hard to fathom someone doing that, Eric. So sorry, and I hope you are able to recover financially from the loss. Can't imagine how upsetting the whole thing would be for you. Please post a list of what you actually lost here, and that would likely help those that might be considering the purchase of some used "new" gear. IF someone were to find some used gear of question, can you suggest who we might call? Maybe worth posting this news on some other boards, as well? Really sad news, Eric. ***Let's keep bumping up this tread for awhile, so the word gets out fast.

A sincere thank you to everyone to contributed their voice on this board, TAY, and at the meetings in Bend, which resulted in the upcoming opening of an uphill route up Mt. Bachelor on January 19th! Well done, folks! And, another sincere thank you to Dave Rathbun, Mt. Bachelor President and General Manager, and the National Forest Service, for finding some middle ground upon which to build a positive relationship. Kudos to all! Policy Details Area & Uphill Map If you plan to take advantage of the uphill route, please note there are many details in the new uphill policy that are worth noting...and respecting. As Rathbun said, "I’ve received feedback that this updated policy is a positive, new starting point. I also agree that it is by no means the finish line." Hopefully future adjustments to the policy will address all user needs, as the ski area includes the new uphill policy into their operating plan. Let's do our best to be positive and helpful to all while on the hill, to further encourage maintenance (and expansion) of the new policy. Yahoo! Have a great time!

Thanks, Dave, and agreed. Good gear is good gear. I do hope that First Ascent does well. It's nice to have a full array of choices out there, and First Ascents truly adds to the pool of viable picks, and the guides who are designing the gear are truly exceptional. I also hope that Eddie Bauer is able to hold on during this rocky economy. It's sad when anyone goes out of business these days, including corporations.

Dave A.; please keep the thread on topic. Jabs at me or anyone else here on this thread are not warranted. You are correct; Eddie Bauer has been making down gear long before most anyone else, including Feathered Friends. I admire the Eddie Bauer's new First Ascent line; I'd like to get a pair of their work gloves, or whatever they're called. Eddie Bauer is corporate owned...and has been on the brink of going under for awhile. Their stock has not fared well lately. Feather Friends, being family owned, no doubt appreciates the support of our local climbing community.

Oh, and I would agree...go with a proven down manufacturer. I like Feathered Friends; they are family owned, and have served our local community for years. Everyone has used their down suits and bags for years.

I've got a Trango alpine knife http://www.trango.com/prod.php?id=104 But was thinking to get something a little larger for cutting tat. The Trango alpine kinda gets bound up in a biner, and is pretty small to handle. Did see the EB knife...looked pretty nice. EB Belay knife http://www.eddiebauer.com/FIRST-ASCENT/First-Ascent-Gear-Equipment/index.cat#ppl={type%3A%22hide%22} BUT, the Trango Barracuda looks like a better fit for me (can keep it clipped in while using) http://www.trango.com/prod.php?id=137 What's your fav knife for cutting tat and crap?

I think some kind of memorial wall would be a good idea...could be more than sobering, for those intrepid climbers who might be swayed by such a sight.

Some really good points here on both sides of the fence. Bug’s idea seems to be a reasonable compromise, and that way if folks want to learn exactly who the person is, they can make that effort. There were certainly some mistakes made in vetting this guy. One ought to take ownership of that, and understand we’re all human and we all make mistakes. Longer and harder trips also seem to magnify things, and as one gets out on more trips like you went on, conflicts like you experienced really seem to fall to the wayside much easier. I think calling people out is just bad business, unless there are extreme circumstances. Not to put down your experience, but they are not out of the ordinary. Shite happens, and people let us down all the time. If you feel compelled to call this guy out, take ownership of the process by publishing something under your own name on your own blog, or publish your experience in a book or in an article. That being said, there is a lot of merit to letting the whole experience slip away, and shift one’s focus to the future, and to the next trip. IMHO, focusing on the garbage in our past only holds back forward progress. There is also a collective cost to us all when someone gets trashed in public. Entertaining, yes, but none of it is really positive or productive. My 2 cents…hope you’re able to take a deep breath…and let this go. It’s really not worth the effort.

What's the best approach for Humpback? From the parking there at the 'T' near the I-90 bridge, does it go straight up through the brush and forest, or ?? I've seen the ice up there, and thought it'd be worth a trip.

thanks, fern, and gp...helpful info. Guess i'm looking for bands to assist with pull-ups and some alternate leg extensions (??) stuff while walking. I'll check out the links.

I'm looking to buy a couple of crossfit elastic bands/loops...like what they're using for pull-ups. Need to work on some leg/hip issues; the bands are just what I'm looking for. Couldn't find any on the web. Anyone know of a source? Thanks! Jason

Can someone repost it there for me? I'm not a member...thx!

Half-pipe could be interesting, Pete, but in the winter 'round Bend I much prefer skating and the occasional up and back on Bachelor.

It appears as though the Bachelor ski area HAS CLOSED MT. BACHELOR TO ALL UPHILL TRAFFIC, INCLUDING ATers, snowshoers, and hikers. The closure is in effect during the official downhill ski season. There is a SMALL uphill area up the neighboring cinder cone, but that's an insignificant peace offering: This unprecedented closure was quietly done through the ski area’s new operating plan, authorized through the NFS. Evidently, there was NO public input solicited on the closure that will likely affect many users. The ski area president cites safety as their reasoning behind the closure, but did not offer uphill users any options or accommodation, such as an uphill safety corridor (perhaps from the end of the catch trail), despite the fact that uphill users have been using the mountain for decades. Although I don’t live in the Bend area, I do manage some uphill trips up Bachelor, and it would be a huge loss to me if this closure were implemented. I did a search for the closure on cc.com, and didn’t see any threads...so thought something ought to be posted. Does anyone know if the Access Fund has been involved, or is this something they get involved with? THERE IS A MEETING THIS TUESDAY, ON DECEMBER 8, TO DISCUSS THE NEW CLOSURE, AND ALL UPHILL USERS IN THE BEND AREA ARE ENCOURAGED TO ATTEND. Details are as follows: http://www.mtbachelor.com/winter/services/safety_policies/uphill_access/index.html Text from the above link: ++++ Uphill traffic is defined as skiers or snowboarders or snowshoers who are traveling up the slopes, using climbing skins or other methods instead of chairlifts. In order to reduce safety concerns associated with uphill traffic Mt Bachelor and Deschutes National Forest have designated all areas within the special use permit as closed to uphill traffic except for a designated corridor for access to the cone using Leeway run. Be advised: The cone is considered unpatrolled and uncontrolled outside of our regular operating hours. Also to accommodate backcountry access off the Summit lift a backcountry access gate would be maintained near the bottom of Larry Valley on the south side to allow for skiers to use the Summit lift, and then exit the permit area to access Kwolh butte. These restriction will not apply during the off season when ski operations are not underway (ok to hike then) except for areas in snowmaking or grooming operations. --------------------------------------------- Update (12/02/09) We are acutely aware of the concerns expressed by uphill/skinning/hiking/AT/Randonee recreationists regarding Mt. Bachelor’s 2009/2010 Operating Plan parameters for uphill access approved by Deschutes National Forest officials. This topic is an agenda item of a meeting I have with Shane Jeffries, Bend/Fort Rock District Ranger, on December 8. I will provide another status report following this meeting. In the interim, the stated policy will remain in effect. As background and in our on-going effort to educate guests and onlookers alike, I provide the following information regarding how we arrived at the current policy in conjunction with our partners in the Forest Service. Providing a safe work environment for our staff and recreation area for our guests is the primary concern and responsibility we assume as a special use permit holder on the Deschutes National Forest. Safety concerns are in fact the ‘tail that wags the dog’ when determining our operating practices. Every year prior to receiving permission from the Forest Service to open Mt. Bachelor to the public we are required to submit and review an Operating Plan that addresses nearly every aspect of resort operations, from Avalanche Control and Emergency Plans to Signage and Vehicle Use. In this year’s review we identified two critical safety issues we believe needed to be addressed in the 2009/10 Operating Plan: 1. The need to eliminate, or greatly reduce, the exposure posed to our avalanche control personnel while hiking up and hand-delivering explosive charges on the Moraine. 2. The need to address both the surge in the number of on-mountain incidents and the tone and severity of the conflicts encountered by our mountain personnel with uphill/skinning/AT recreationists, particularly involving free-grooming/winch-grooming and avalanche control operations in the morning hours preceding opening to the public. As a result of the review we acquired a new Falcon GT Avalauncher to remotely deliver explosives to the Moraine to take our Patrol staff out of harm’s way and to safely reduce the time required to clear the Moraine from avalanche risk and to open the area to the public. We also evaluated multiple alternatives to establish a new uphill access policy we believed would balance our need for safe, unencumbered and clearly defined operating practices with a continued measure of uphill access for recreationists within the ski area boundary/special use permit area. The uphill access policy as stated is a result of addressing these issues. This is not an issue unique to Mt. Bachelor; other ski areas operating on Forest System land are also currently working to balance safety, operating practices and access. However, every ski area poses its own unique challenges to arriving at that point of balance. We are committed to working with the Forest Service and recreationists to find that balance point for Mt. Bachelor. I ask for your cooperation by adhering to the policy until such time adjustments, if any, are made. Thank you, Dave Rathbun President & General Manager Mt. Bachelor, Inc. ------------------------------------------------------ We like dogs. However, dogs are not allowed above our parking lots during our winter operations. Please keep your pets on a leash at all times in the parking lots. These policies are not unique to Mt. Bachelor. They are in line with the overall Deschutes National Forest winter policies. Map Of Allowed Uphill Traffic Area Mt Bachelor and the Forest Service have agreed to uphill access restrictions within the Mt Bachelor special use permit area for safety. Reasons being: • Avalanche control operations including use of new avalauncher • Grooming and winch cat operations 4pm to opening • Conflicts between downhill riders and uphill traffic Additional FAQ for those with a lift ticket: • You can still session the halfpipe • If you ski into a spot where you need to walk up to get back to the lift - you can walk • You can go from the top of summit lift to the bowl like you always have • You can go up the ramp to get on the Summit Express • You should not hike into closed areas above the tops of open lifts • The uphill access policy is not very relevant to you if you are riding the chairlifts

I went through the whole Morton's Neuroma thing...and eventually had it fixed (they go in through the top of the foot, and clip the neuroma out; it creates a numb area between the two toes...one gets used to it very quickly, and it's a non-issue). I understand that folks that don't have it treated...end up compromising their lifestyle...some to the extent of hardly walking at all. PM me for my doc's name if you're looking for a reference (if you're in the South Sound area). It's worth getting someone who's talented with the knife for the cutting to avoid complications. It's a quick rehab with good results if the doctor rec's are followed. Women mostly get Morton's Neuroma...from wearing tight shoes. Makes sense that climbers get it too, especially if ya wear yer rock and running shoes on the tighter side. Good luck!

FKT...aka freakin' killer time!

justinp...good point. Comfort level is an aspect of this, too. Sometimes I feel when I'm getting too comfy with things...is just about when I'll make a silly mistake or something. Using some kind of redundant system may reduce those kinds of accidents. I think the biggest thing...is that when moving into and out of a belay station (trad or sport)...a system of some sort is used, to minimize confusion and a mistake. I thought you had a good example of a system that worked for you in that regard. A person may or may not want to increase redundancy, depending on the situation and strength of the anchors. FWIW, I think the AMGA is moving towards the double nylon sling approach, vs. a PAS or single sling (not redundant). The double sling is used as an extension when rapping; or use a 2x length sling with a knot midway, with a clip through the "X", and then clip the end of the loop back into the harness (relates to last question in original post). Good discussion!