treknclime

Gotta 4x4 Toy...what'da think about putting studs on the rear tires? Does it help? Potential problems?? Road wear...I know. Haven't done put them in my tires...but thinking about it.

Best/cheapest motels?

Both the Wilson Headwall and Kautz Glacier have been climbed in the winter...however, they are rarely done. Don't hesitate to default onto the Muir route if there's been a lot of snow...or the weather or avi forcasts are not favorable. If you're up there...camped in the "usual highcamps" for those two routes...and a lot of snow comes in, your escape route...well, is prolly f-ed. It's sorta common to cut over...from the Muir snowfield...across the Nisqually...through a gunsight notch...onto the F Finger/Wilson/Kautz. If you make a highcamp on the Muir snowfield...you will actually leave your options open for many routes that way (including all the Muir routes, plus the routes you're interested in doing). Just a few ideas...

Heels down; tip-toes will cause frontpoints to shear out lots of times.

It’s possible you have Raynaud’s Link to Basic Raynaud's Info The military uses “classical conditioning” as treatment…probably the most effective way: Home Conditioning Abstract Google Raynaud’s and “classical conditioning” for more details how the conditioning is done at home (it’s easy…and fun!). It’s very effective at start, and wears off over time. You’ll need to redo the conditioning from time to time if your problem is indeed Raynaud’s. Lastly…use Grabber Hand Warmers, to reduce the sympathetic response…whenever you’re hands are even slightly exposed to cold, and you’ll reduce the cold finger syndrome (even if you don’t have Raynaud’s). Overdressing the hands…and using mitts whenever possible is also helpful. It’s not the end of the world for your ice climbing…good luck...and experiment!

N-Icccceeee site! Should be getting cold soon!

You should be able to ski the whole way now; the road is closed, and there's either the direct way up to the road from Narada Falls along the edge, or up through the trees...or along side the road to the intersection. Lot's of snow coming tonight and this weekend=avi danger, potentially in a number of places enroute to the saddle. If youre an intermed. skier, you should have fun skiing down from the saddle when conditions are reasonable (not too much snow, or too icy). Have fun!

Extreme!

That's a good one, Dru! Thanks, yall, for your thoughts and ideas!

Based upon the few photos of the 'EXTREME SPORTS FACILITY'...it looks like Edgeworks offers more wall space, and a better value. Eighteen bucks to climb at the EXTREME is pretty spendy...

Write Mike Gauthier...he'll have more than most anyone else.

You should be able to pick up a pole splint at many outdoor stores (it's about 2-3" larger diameter tube...that slips on over the break...then duck tapped onto the pole). It makes for a longer pole after repaired if the break is at a joint. Can save $$ if you're into that...or outback and need something to get by with. Put a couple in your repair kit for future trips, especially on an expedition trip. Works most of the time...

I don't think the "headwall" has ever been closed. The use of the glacier for crossings hasn't been discouraged, either. The lower glacier itself, I believe, isn't really "closed," per se, rather, people have been discouraged from staying/practicing on the glacier in respect to those soldiers who lost their lives. That part of the glacier isn't too attractive for much anyhow...other than crossing, so it's purely academic for climbers, anyhow. So...cross the glacier to get to the headwall, and don't worry about the area being "closed."

FW...is YOUR bird endangered??

Fair-weather...good to see you're back in fighting spirits! Get on it!

The lower South T glacier is technically "closed," due to the C-47 WWII plane that crashed there years ago...although it's not inforced. I don't think there's ever been any issues with climbers accessing other routes across the glacier (i.e., South T headwall). The route is steep, reasonable, with no resting places for 4k of elevation gain. Best conditions are probably in late April through June...combined with a cold snap and reasonably firm snow. Move quickly and beware of rock and ice fall. Either climb unroped...or simul...with running belays (probably pickets). Some NPS rangers have climbed it in recent years. South Tahoma Glacier and the Tahoma Glacier are different routes. Post your TR and photos if you do it. I'll look for a photo...

Best gloves for placing screws and messing with stuff? Warmth vs. dexterity? Padded? Ease of getting them on and off with damp hands? Removable liners (maybe good...or bad...if they pull out every time damp hands are pulled out)? Thoughts....favorites??

Blue/black, white/black...same boot, still stiff. Makes some sense to try them out. The Intuition liners are an easy way to go.

Kastingers...stiff upper cuff (read shin bang)...used to have removable innerboots that had a sole...to be used as an approach boot. Don't remember if the innerboot had a heal on them, but it would be possible to make one from foam or some kind of lightweight rubber. Maybe worth unloading them...and picking up a pair of rental Koflachs...that have a softer cuff...which makes it easier for flatfooting up steeper slopes. The Koflachs also have more of a rocker sole (on the shells), which makes it a more comfortable choice you're gonna do any approach work in them. Probably could pick up some good rentals for around $85. I think the Kastinger's I'm thinking of were white, with black (?). They first came out with a purple (?) ski/climbing boot...that messner wore up NP (2nd time). Those were much heavier, and were only around for awhile. My .02's.