Dr_Crash

Point well taken re: skills being more important than the shoes. Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll shop with an open mind. I'm glad I haven't bought the lycra tights yet, so I can get that color-matching thing out of the way for now, I'll just buy matching tights drC

Approach skis are an option too. drC

Is it wise to look at beginner-only shoes like the Cliff? I don't really want to spend $90 for a shoe that won't last long. I also don't want to get specialized shoes (banana-shaped, very asymetrical, etc.) of course, but wanting something that will last past my beginner stage is why I was looking at the Mythos. My reference for beginner/intermediate/expert classification is Climbing's 2004 Gear Guide BTW. I'm sure you guys are right re: comfort. How can you gauge how much a shoe will stretch, and how much of the pain-in-the-store will really last? The only guideline I have is the salesman... But I know that for ski boots, if I get them to be snug but okay in a store, I'll hate them a few weeks later when the liner will have stretched, so I was thinking on the lines of "it's okay if it hurts at first" (only if it *does* stretch of course). And no, I'm not simply interested in peak-bagging. But I want that to be an option. drC

Hi, I'm getting my first pair of rock shoes, having decided to start rock climbing to be a rounder (and I don't mean waist shape here) mountaineer (I just do ski mountaineering for now), and to be able to get my kids out of the gym they're currently climbing at. I'll start by doing weekly climbing at Marymoor park (or a gym if the weather doesn't cooperate) then head to Exit 32 or other local spots. I also want to be able to reach summits where you need to climb. Having no idea what I'll like the best I don't want to commit to a type of shoe that favors one activity versus another. It's a bit confusing... I tried on some La Sportiva Mythos who have been recommended as a great all around shoe. I wear a US 8 1/2 (European 42, though it's labelled as 41 on La Sportiva boxes) and was convinced that a US 7 (La Sportiva 39 1/2) was okay. My left foot feels totally jammed in that thing (it's th elonger foot) but in a size 40 my smaller foot is pretty comfortable, and I was given the advice to size to my smaller foot. I understand the reason for that, but sure hope that the left shoe will stretch enough in length to accomodate my poor left foot What are other comparable shoes to try? The 5.10 Moccasym? Others? The Mythos is pretty expensive ($120) and while I can buy that I don't mind paying less either Thanks in advance, drC

Why of course. drC

Hey, I've gone everywhere in a Miata, with snow tires in winter. Sure, I had to dig it from under more than its height of snow, and yes, I once got the wheels off the ground because there was so much snow that got piled under the car, but nothing than a shoveling couldn't fix. It might not be the perfect car for here but it sure works, and nothing beats driving top down to the trailhead, skis on the passenger seat. It even performs better than most of the SUVs out there (a few of whom spun and ended up on their roof while I had no issue) but this is more likely due to the average driving skill around here than to the car. drC

There is one Suunto which is smaller in size and doesn't look as geeky as the other ones. I think it's the Observer. drC

I'll worry about obsessing. Could you worry about grammar a bit? That first "sentence" of yours is tough to read! drC

So, I've marked my carabiners with nail polish. I did the marking inside the gate, where the keylock nose rests. I want to remove some polish from one biner which got a bit too much of it. I could scrape it off, or just go for remover. I don't think the remover would be an issue, but wanted to double-check first. I may even have to remove all of it and mark somewhere else, since somebody at Feathered Friends shared where they mark their carabiners and I thought it was a better spot, where the mark would be protected yet visible if you want to quickly see who gear belongs to. With my current way, you need to open the gate to know, which isn't really an issue except for speed maybe. drC

I'd get the L instead. Boot soles today are shorter than they were a few years ago, and that may continue to happen. Also, at least for me, I find out that as I get older I get less tolerant of a sloppy boot fit, and have been able to go a shell size smaller (and remount my alpine bindings, but that's not an option with the Diamirs). drC

Does it work well, and what dilution ratio did you use? drC

Hi Rodchester, Yes, I've thought of asking the Mountie Police (which I assume is what you call the people on the different Mountaineers committees) and the answer is likely to be: "it depends." As in, they don't care for ski mountaineering but most likely the basic climb guys will be rigid and will want solid gates true ovals anyways. catbirdseat, The weight difference would be 1 oz more than that but your point is well taken, and I know where to save the big weight: my body and my 5.5 lbs 55 l pack (compared to say an Icefall at 3.5 lbs) are more likely places to have a real effect. The Dovals look nice though. drC

Hi, I need to have 4 oval carabiners for my Mountaineers class (wiregates are okay for that class). I'm trying to find something really lightweight, and the Doval wire at 37 g looks really nice, but can it serve the exact same purpose as an oval carabiner, even though it's an "ovalized D?" If not, what's a good lightweight oval carabiner (and same question for solid gate)? Thanks in advance, drC Edit: Also, does the lack of "CE" marking means it hasn't passed certification?

I use MapSeal (bought at REI). Works well, about $8 for 4-6 maps (not counting my first, on which I used way too much product). drC

I know about that. I've wondered about durability but it's a really cool idea (and another $12), and if their tape is as bomber as their shovels, no pb. drC

I hope the Petzl Mini is one of them. Do you know? If not, I guess I'd have to use my belay device to do the minding. RE: your safety margin of 10:1, Strong's book notes that 5mm perlon has a breaking strength of ~1150 lbs, which would be a 5:1 safety margin then (which he does consider good, btw). Not sure who's right drC

Is that force exerted on the prusik? My weight doesn't change so the force *I* exert doesn't change. The force on the rope does change (going in the up direction) but it's pretty static. Do you think the rope could slip through the prusik then? A kleimheist is out of the question given the environment is school where we have to use prusiks. drC

Hi, I have a question about prusiks. It looks like the standard prusik diameter with people like the Mountaineers is 6 mm. Yet, many do glacier travel with 8.1 mm or similar ropes (typically a strand from a twin), and they agree that 5 mm would be better on those. I actually have two questions I guess: - Is 5 mm what you'd pick for an 8.1 mm line, or would you stick with 6 mm and make an extra wrap (like 4 wraps maybe)? I won't be trailing a sled or other heavy stuff, just myself and a week-end pack. - If yes, would it make sense to have 5 mm for everything, including the school's 11 mm ropes, or do I want another set for those, in 6 mm. I'm thinking a single set should work with all of the ropes. Thanks, drC

It is a nice probe. I used it a few times, but now have BCA's SR3 probe (3 meters, bigger diameter). No problem with the 240, just wanted a 3 m probe. The centimeter markings are nice but they stop a good 5 cm to the end of each segment, leaving gaps. The SR3 doesn't do that. The probe works really well in packed debris with nearly no deflection. The only complaint I've seen is when searching for someone (or in our case a buried beacon/target) the cable loop can whip into somebody's face as you probe close to another searcher. Not a big deal if a life's at stake, and since I was the one probing, not a problem for me either . drC

Why in the SAME direction? Ease of use? I thought Petzl's goal in having the gates face opposite directions was to ensure that at least one biner would be loaded in the body and not the gate. Fair point re: tying eliminating the risk of gate breaking, but I don't think it'd be easy to break open one of those double eights after a fall on it, while you're hanging on the rope. A bowline might be easier though. drC

Hi, I'm learning how to do glacier travel as part of doing ski mountaineering, and have a question about clipping into the rope. We clip in because we're wearing heavy packs and want to leave those hanging on the rope when we're climbing out of a crevasse. The textbook I've been using, "Glaciers! Travel and Rescue" by Strong, shows clipping with a single locking carabiner. But every Petzl carabiner (or harness) notice that talks about clipping in says you need to use two carabiners with the gates facing opposite directions, or you risk that the rope would load and break the gate during a fall. The Petzl "Experience" brochure has some diagrams of that deadly sequence too. What is your experience? Is the double carabiner warranted for glacier travel, or are the loads in play unlikely to enable the gate-breaking scenario? Thanks in advance, drC