AaronB

I'm looking for real beta. Anyone been up there this weekend? Road opened Friday?

What are people's thoughts on NR Baker conditions right now?

Trip: Dragontail - Backbone Ridge Date: 9/1/2013 Trip Report: I've known Oleg for years but have never climbed with him. It turned out to be a treat. We met at Colchuck lake for dinner and whiskey around 5pm on Saturday. Woke up a little after 530am and were hiking by 630. We both were feeling the whiskey and no joke brought 8 liters of water! We brought our gear and planned on a bivy around the summit or back at the lake. The climbing was very straightforward for the most part and on very clean secure rock. He had already led the offwidth on a prior trip and let me have that lead. I was surprised that it wasn't that hard. It was strenuous, but very straightforward and secure. We brought two number 5 cams and a number 6 so I didn't have to move the cams up very much and could climb past them as the pitch isn't that long. I didn't feel run out. The pack was very heavy with all the water so we tried to drink as much as possible. It felt weird not to ration and actually have too much water and food. We kept eating and drinking and it almost felt like cragging over alpine. The climbing is relaxing and enjoyable with no really hard moves. We did notice several bivy spots along the way, with some awesome ones on top of backbone ridge. Getting to the fin, it looked mostly blank from below. I didn't really have any beta on the climb and Oleg left the pictures and descriptions in the car. We kind of guessed where to start climbing and it was so good. I really can't describe how enjoyable the pitches were with such great exposure and afternoon sun. The last pitch to the top of the fin felt run out as we used the #5 cams for the belay. So it was a runnout foot traverse with great exposure. We did have one very sketchy rappel off the mountain. We went down to the East on the descent since we only had tennis shoes and wanted to avoid the steep snow. The first single rappel was straightforward, but the second was sketchy. It barely covered a tiny horn (if you could call it that). I am a lot bigger so I went first with Oleg keeping an eye on it. We backed it up with two cams in case it popped. Unfortunately it went on an overhang and ended up being 12 feet too short to a big ledge. I placed a cam and did the crazy bounce testing to see if the rappel would fail for oleg. It held and I let the ends go through the rope and was able to reach a place to downclimb. We then made another rappel to the snow and descended to a good bivy site. Great climb and great partner. Here are some photos. This is me towards the top of the offwidth Oleg on the pitch above it. The great bivy spots on top of the BB Me on the fin somewhere low Oleg on the second to last pitch Oleg at his belay Looking down on Oleg from the top of the fin Gear Notes: You don't need two #5's but what the hell right? And #6 8 Liters of water double cams to .4 to #3 with some small stuff too 10 alpine draws and 3 doubles 2 hangovers

Goatboy, I seem to remember running into you on the w ridge of forbidden the last time I did the traverse. (9 years ago?)You had just climbed the e ridge direct. The rope on the snow was sort of phycological protection. My partner didn't have much experience on steeper snow and wanted to be roped in. It gave her more confidence with the idea she would have a belay for the last 200 feet. Basically seemed worth the risk for her to feel more confident. That and I already had a 60m rope in my pack most of the climb after trying to manage two ropes the first day. Didn't feel like squeezing another in . Also, I feel these pictures make it look steeper than it really is? Good for making us look cool, but bad for beta. Almost all the rockfall was climber caused including the big guy that nailed me and tore my precious pants. There is a nasty loose section as you are climbing to gain the ridge after the second snow traverse.

Saw a giant snaffle sitting on my helmet 4 inches from my face. I blew him a kiss goodnight and let him have his way with my stuff. I didn't notice any damage or missing food. Maybe your battle scared the future generations into submission. The stove fiasco involved what I think was screwing on the canister with the valve on and not noticing it. By the time it was noticed, the fuel was desperately low. Just enough for 3 liters of water. Rookie mistake. Climbing sans water while surrounded by snow is pretty annoying. No coffee = depressing.

I've climbed with mountainmb and vouch for an awesome experience. Be fit though because she will kick your ass on those car to cars and drink all your beer before you are halfway down.

Trip: Torment Forbidden Traverse - TFT Date: 7/13/2013 Trip Report: Left the car Saturday morning with perfect weather which continued the entire climb. I did this route 9 years ago and climbed torment via the SE face.. I wish I had done that this time. We chose to climb the gully and spent hours and hours fooling around on the SW face. We climbed way too high and had to rap down to the SE face anyway to access the ledges to the col for the start of the traverse. My recommendation is to just go straight up the SE face.. so much less of a hassle. And route finding is much more straight forward. The route was in great shape and the snow was perfect styrofoam. It was really secure. We bivied on a small ledge just before the 2nd and steep snow traverse as we wasted so much time on Torment (we also skipped bagging the summit). The bivy was beautiful but we had a stove malfunction and ended up not getting a hot dinner and having only 2 liters of water total melted (couldn't find a drip). That and my thermarest popped in the first 5 minutes of sleep. Ouch! The snow the next morning was icy and very secure. We didn't bring pickets but the snow would have been easily protected with them. The ridge was just as exposed and memorable as I remember with great views. We were a little tired and thirsty (no coffee or oatmeal) and only 1 liter of water each for the day. When we got to Forbidden col we counted 13 people on the west ridge and decided to bail as we have both done the W Ridge before and I was cranky thirsty. We rapped the gully in super speed time and raced to the the first water we found and OMG it tasted so good. Great fun and great partner. Did experience some nasty rock fall and took a big hit on my thigh ripping my pants and skin a little.. but mostly just a big bruise. Careful! Snow was perfect and no need to bypass. Overall we just needed to figure out a better system for simul climbing. We experienced too much rope drag. If I did it again, I think I'd just take a 60m half rope and half it so we would have only 30m between us. I'd be interested to hear thoughts on that? We were moving too slow I felt and was a little bummed not to join the clusterf*** of people on the W. Ridge of Forbidden. Oh, and don't count on drips. I don't remember the first traverse being this steep, maybe the camera angle? Gear Notes: 7 cams .4 to #2 with doubles of .75 and 1, 9 nuts (5-12 with a double of lucky 7) ice axe and extra tool (helpful but not essential) 17 single slings and 5 doubles only need one rope.. Approach Notes: Boston Basin

We got back from climbing around 4am and slept until 730am. Somehow one of our helmets got picked up in that time span. A purple black diamond helmet that looked pretty new. The only people to leave during that time were two guys that arrived at the hut at 230am from Paradise to do the climb in a push, but were deterred by the winds. They crashed down below where we were in the shelter and left at 6am to go back down. Are you one of those guys? Did you grab a helmet? Accident or not, uncool to wake up to find it missing. We weren't done climbing.. Please return it.

Hey there, at what level did you encounter snow on the approach? Thanks!

Looking to do something tomorrow (Wednesday) NR Baker? Leavenworth Rock? Email me: ajbailey555@gmail.com I'm free until 5pm on Thursday.

I'm going to be up there tomorrow and would like a partner.

I'm job free and have some new rock toys that I'm anxious to put to use. Thinking City of Rocks for a few days and then to the Tetons. I could be convinced to do something else too if you have a good idea. You don't need to be a rockstar as I'm not, just try not to drink all the beer, and shit at every belay (unless you have IBS and then I am sorry). However I've heard that if you do have IBS you can get a prescription for Medical Marijuana now. Hey Hey! Not so bad after all!

Anyone going to be around looking for partners?

I plan on hitting the Blanca again this year. June/July. I will need partners unless I grow wings and learn to use them by then. Last year was great minus the pooping and broken hand. This year I plan on loosing a tooth and getting amnesia. If you would like to help me accomplish my goals please email me. No experience required. Oh wait take back that last line.

So did you get a number?

go with the cable and beer

Hi, After thinking about it for 11 years I am finally switched to skis this winter. I just got all my overpriced stuff and am ready to go try it out. Now I just need someone to go out with. I got a AT setup with avy gear. Disclaimer* I probably really suck (really bad) so if your a super star this won't be a good match. However if you are new like me or recovering from an injury! let's go get some freshies. by the way, I'm not looking for this kind of ski buddy.

Can someone tell me if this Ski is compatible with an AT binding? I feel like this is probably a dumb question, but obviously I don't know the answer.

I am in Huaraz for another day or two and then heading to Quebrada Llanganuco to hopefully climb the NE face of Huandoy Norte ..I´m open to other ideas but that will fit my other climbing plans perfectly.

Check your PM's

bump

I need a partner for Sunset AmpHC this Weekend. Sat/Sun/Mon I'm open to other options as well.

I read the discussion for the "Best camera for Denali" and do you think the same of the Blanca? I want something small compact that takes regular battery's and isn't too expensive. I want to be able to take those panoramic shots too.

Trip: El Dorado - The one with foot prints leading to the summit Date: 4/22/2007 Trip Report: Climbed El Dorado Sunday. Left the car sat around noon and had a rough time postholing all the way from the first talus field up to the ridge. Slept good though and awoke to 1-2 inches of fresh snow. Left the tent around 8am (just in time to follow another party up) ..It didn't seem to help much at times following the other 2 climbers as I still managed to poke my foot another 6 inches down on top of their 18 inches. It just got worse. The clouds never really broke to give us views. We hung out at the summit for about half an hour and finally gave up and descended. The descent seemed to take forever. At times I was thigh deep in the worst snow I've ever walked in. It was truly an experience I will never forget. All in all though it was still better than sitting in Seattle doing homework. We had a good time. Liz had a good time and never complained. I had a good time and complained a lot. Happy to make it back to solid ground after our snow wrestling. View of J-burg from camp. Gear Notes: Poles with Powder buckets. Approach Notes: Snow from the first talus field up. Melting VERY fast.

edited to make picture appear