Indy_jones

Hi Everyone, Just a heads up that logging is planned for Olson Creek impacting Long House climbing area, north east side of the Chief and the south face of Slhanay including climbing access and hiking trails to all three. The local BC Timber sales office has claimed they did their due diligence identifying competing community values but climbers only found out about it after flagging/surveyor tape was founded near the Long House earlier this summer. For more info: here and here To many of us, this is simply not acceptable. If you feel the same way please send an email the BC government as described in the above links the sooner the better. And support the Squamish Access Society through membership http://squamishaccess.ca/ Here is a shot showing part of the proposed area to be logged. (I can't take credit for the image, see above links for original.

I bought a pair of dragonflies from MEC for an ice climbing trip in the rockies over xmas. After the third rap from the first route we climbed (off an established, bolted rap route, straight down), one was rendered useless...a cut into the core. Granted Rockies limestone can be sharp...but pretty scary lack of abrasion resistance. On similar terrain, my genisis lasted 3+ years.

thanks MH...doesn't look good.

Anyone been up Clear Creek FSR in the past two weeks? The Forest Service conditions link says it is closed at Frog Lake...but I don't about a Frog lake...anyone know where that is relative to GGB? TIA Indy

Hi All, Due to surgery etc we have two spots open for a self-guided, self-catered week in Fairy Meadows Jan 26-Feb 2 . Mix of easy going AT and free-heelers most in ages of mid 30s-mid 40s with good gender balance. Must have avy training, backcountry experience, etc. $725+GST/spot which includes heli in/out and lodge fees More info here FM linky In the words of Chic Scott: "it is a skiing paradise." Pic from last year at flight day out: had to leave plenty of pow. Please contact me for more details, etc. dj.at.yvr AT gmail DOT com Cheers, David

Anyone looking for a partner for Sat? Single or Multi upto mid 10s. Due to ankle recovery issues, I can't climb crack the entire day, but one or two pitches should be fine. PM me or dj.at.yvr gmail

Sarken recall

I thought a few places where SS and Dreamer cross were a bit runout. Aren't there places for 25 footers or maybe I'm just a puss.

thanks Dru, 40ft is runout for me. What the grade of the crux, calibrated to squamish slabs? And which topo are you talking about? Lyle's book doesn't list the bolts/pitch.

So I've got my eye on Reality Check...have done Yak Check before, so what are the first 6 pitches of Reality Check like? Rumor has it the 10+ pitch is run-out slab. True? Any worse than the run-outs on Dreamer? Other pitches have pro? TIA

There are two huge corrals of chicken wire, along with pre-cut stakes. You don't need to bring any. I was there last week. That being said I like to bring my own stucco wire rather than use Chicken wire -much easier to set up -much stiffer so no worries about it drooping down -$25 from Home Despot -rolls up nicely to use again later -no stitching of random pieces together.

Yes

I drove out last night (7/20) at 9 pm. Road was single lane and the mud was deep but only bottomed once with 8" clearance. One of the mud slides came from the Alpine! It looks like they have to replace some culverts. (replacement materials already on sight). You will probably have delays during working hours, but I'd call the CMH lodge for the latest. BTW, we (unscientifically) measured 28 mm on rain in our stove pot at Applebee. And Mctech Arete was climbed the following evening.

I've started to minimize any girth hitches...that seems to significantly weaken slings. how about using a biner?

bstach: did you take only pictures and only leave footprints? Or did you leave something else behind?

I saw your post too late for today...sux cuz it is beautiful out but let me know if the future for weekdays as I've got a flexible work schedule

John, I'm usually open for a mid week climb. PM me

so the dudes at www.E-Climb.com say you can use their tools as a stitch-plate for belay/rapping ?? Yeah it might be nice to have if you drop your ATC...but it doesn't take long to imagine new kinds of rappelling accidents

get'em tonight or they will probably be gone: http://www.steepandcheap.com/

Thanks Matt

Anyone know the status of the road to Green Giant Buttress and 3'clock? We are thinking of coming down in a couple of weeks (mid may) or is that way too early?

Climb: Duffy lake road ice scouting and ICYBC climbing-icybc Date of Climb: 2/16/2006 Trip Report: Drove to ICYBC from Whistler for a day of breaking in a novice. conditions of climbs: from road: Rambles looked okay from what one could see Loose Lady too thin (not in) Tube none existent Synchronicity next year Carl's Berg too thin for me, but maybe climbable by hardmen Soo blufs some hint of ice (could be better, didn't get a good look at it) climb: ICYBC and area: fat, wet on LHS and RHS, stepped out in places. Lake is frozen, second tier in, third tier is running in the middle with ice formed to the top. FYI: road crews were working on bridge right by Synchronicity. Had to wait 30 min. Hopefully they finished up this afternoon. Approach Notes: 99 to ICYBC in great shape...random snow pack stretches on bare...safe to bring mom's caddy.

I'll be going home to Bozeman for Thanksgivin' week. Anyone want to climb some early season ice? pm or email me at dj.at.yvrATgmailDOTcom

Thanks for the info...do you think you'd need a winch (or ?) to get around the barrier? I recently (and unwillingly) donated my mtn bike to (I think) a needy crack addict.

With equal snow around I'd say Loveland, 'bout 1.5 hours from Boulder down 93 then I-70. Eudora is good, but check the wind...it can howl there.