SemoreJugs

Yo. CAB MY wrist is kinda sprained or something so that sounds like good stuff to me. Gimme a call, check your PM's for my digits

What route do you propose? Any clue as to current snow conditions and approach difficulties? I'm looking for something to do this weekend.

No. But damn you for taking the Uncle Traveling Matt avatar before I thought of it. Damn you to hell! What am I left with? Wembley? The trash heap?

A truly classic climb. I cant imagine how your partner of 6'6" got through the OW. I'm 6'0" and followed that pitch and remember making about 1-2 feet of progress per minute. I guess the idea is to not stuff your entire body into the chimney/OW? The final pitch is spectacular. It looks straightforward after doing the OW, but then you get on it and are thinking, "this aint so easy". The best is the final 10 feet of curving (and possibly more than vertical?) crack. 2 or three big moves and BAM you are topping out! Not too common to finish an alpine route like that. Cheers to another baptism!

Way to go Jeremy!

WEll it turns out that we took elected to cross the Nisqually over to the Wilson Glacier rather than going up through the Fan. The climbing ranger that registered us suggested the Fan rather than the Wilson, but Gauthier likes the Wilson. We looked at the Fan after descending from Glacier Vista and it looked like a bowling alley. Easy decision. The crevasse crossings were trivial. We roped up just in case but it seems everyone is going this way if you look at the boot tracks. It seems this route has become much more popular since when I climbed it in 2004. We encountered a lot of RMI groups descending when we ascended and vice versa. Luckily there are many good bivy sites along the way... The first ice pitch was a cake walk. 45 degrees at the most, tons of suncups and little ice features to use for a quick simul-climb. The second pitch is becoming melted out and is really a 1.5-pitch climb (we had a 70M rope too). The center line is giving way to rotten ice and is quite slick. LEft or right is better depending on your fancy. Rapping off the ice penitentes on the right works well for the decent because you dont have to leave anything behind. Down-climbing would be slow and difficult. Just pray you dont get stuck behind other rapping parties as we did. It took nearly 3 hours to descend the ice sections due to this bottleneck. But damn its some fun alpine ice climbing up there! Having a second tool for pitch 2 and three or four screws is definitely recommended.

Attempting the Kautz Thur-Sat. Where is a good place to cross over the Nisqually Glacier from PEbble Creek? AT what Elevation? Its supposed to be clear weather but... its Rainier... Where would Avy danger be lowest? The Fan or by the Wilson Glacier? Happy 4th!

Wow. That was a pretty well-balanced and thorough article. The only glaring omission was that climber's access concerns were not really addressed. Despite this, the Times has at least one good reporter on staff after all. I'm interested in what climbers think of leaving the Carbon Road unrepaired. IT seems like there is still reasonable access to any point on the mountain without it. People are still getting up liberty ridge (with a little more effort). I'm with Edward Abbey, the less roads the better. It helps to keep away the riff-raff that don't really appreciate the mountain. From the north side of the mountain, at sunset, you can just barely make out the Seattle skyscrapers as the bask in a reddish-golden hue. It immediately conjures up the reverse image of Rainier as seen from Seattle. The mountain looks so massive, yet the Seattle skyline looks rediculously small and insignificant as it is momentarily visible infront of the Sound during sunset. Do you think people in their cars will ever notice something like this? And if they do, would they care? We could pave the entire mountain, but it has the power to make our "improvements" noting more than a silly memory.

IT is reflected above. (Post edit)

are you jealous?

We are slashing prices like crazy! So come on down and get some old school pro at older school prices! Woooooooooo-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee !!!!!!!#@$#Y^&*^&%&^%$

Yeah, I'll try to remember next time I'm up that way. Probably at least one weekend in June.

Not sure if these were used more than 1 or 2 sessions. Still smell like fresh leather and rubber is barely worn. $40 OBO

I have 3 sets of hexes sizes 8,9, and 10. Never used, still have the tags on them. No wires on these babies... just old school sling 'em yourself. $5 each, OBO. I will sell a set of 8,9, and 10 for $13. I live in the Wallingford area of Seattle. Local pickup only. (two zero six) 251-0548

Revolution involves neither Democrats nor Republicans. They are part of the benefited power structure currently in place. I am talking about a real revolution of the people. Is that so hard to imagine these days? You have to look outside the only "choices" which are being marketed to us by the two-party system.

When your car breaks down over and over despite numerous repairs, don't you eventually decide that you are better off getting a new(er) car? Thats what our healthcare system is like now, along with many other systems such as the corporate profit interests which control the leaders in our government. Time to throw it all out, burn it down, and begin anew. That's how America was created after all. Reforms are bullshit. Successive revolutions are the only real paths towards lasting progress. Do I know how to do it? Not for certain, but here's one idea. I suggest that we boycott insurance companies. Instead of paying premiums and co-pays to them, pool it into a co-op structure. Local co-ops that are run by a board elected by the payees. Its run like a corporation, except that the yardstick for success is not in securing a profit, but in increased health benchmarks for its members. The better the benchmarks, the better the pay for the board members. If it goes down significantly, they get impeached or receive a "vote of no confidence". Why has'nt this "radical" idea or something else occurred? Because the people who are in power (politicians, the mainstream corporate media, and such) have convinced us that every "radical" idea will be a catastrophe. And what is so astounding to me is that the system we have in place now already is a catastrophe and I dont see how anything else could possibly be worse. Its in their interest to maintain this system because the wealthy can obtain quality care and all the leaching of money feeds back into wealthy pockets. Now if the nurses decided to strike (who are not wealthy, unlike doctors) they would bring the system to a complete halt. The problem is that most nurses would not be willing to sacrifice their patients for the greater good, which is why they dont strike. Its quite impressive how collective action in this country has been almost entirely stifled. Unions are a 4-letter word. How evil, to cut into profits for the good of workers. Tsk. Tsk. Fuck Money. Its time we began to value people instead.

Yeah man, everyone's doing it. Get with the program already. My 8 year old free-solos Thin Fingers in his flip-flops fer chrissake. Mammut just announced that they will discontinue making ropes by 2011...

Talk about a non-sequitor

HEy we have a group of 3 headed to Tieton tomorrow at 7AM. We will be climbing until Saturday. A 4th would be awesome. Even if you can only climb for a single day, thats cool. I lead up to mid 10 sport and probably 9 trad (its been a while in that dept). But the focus will mostly be on trad cause Tieton cracks are what its all about! Gimme a call. Check PM for phone #

So I need a partner for Tieton Thurs till Saturday. We have the dreaded group of 3. ACtually I can climb until Monday but the guy with the wheels is doing thurs-sat. So if you have transportation, we could be flexible. Lemme know, check your PM

Thats funny, because I found a top section of a Leki pole laying among the downed trees about halfway to Nada. I figured someone flipped out and was trying to fillet one of the roadblocking pines with their pole, and the pine won. Maybe instead it was your pole flying apart to set up an ankle breaker in one of the boulder-moats.

Looking to do sport and trad down at Smith. Looking to do mostly .10 sport and .9 and below trad. My two partners are a bit stronger than me currently. Dont mind doing harder stuff as long as you are the rope gun. PM me if interested.

We found a jacket on the snow creek trail, after you pass snow creek wall towards lake Nada. IF you lost one there recently, describe it (color, type, brand, size, etc). If it matches up with what we found, then the gear gods will smile upon thee. I'm guessing you left it behind because when you saw the explosion of trees all over the trail you literally lept out of your jacket!

I dunno, but if there is a God, he/she/it must be laughing its ass off over this circus chirade of logic, reasoning, and science. What is a RATE donor? And does it have free will? Or is the foreknowledge that the research paper which it funds have predictable outcomes which support it creationist arguments invalidate their free will? I don't have any answers, I just like to make fun of yours.

These look pretty awesome, especially the one shot in the video where the cam is being loaded assymetrically to the axel. But, come on. Bounce testing the placements? WTF? I want to see them put their balls out there and take some whippers off these 2 lobe, flare, and assymetric pull placements. If they hold a factor 1.8 fall of a 200lb climber, they will have no problem selling those puppies.