SemoreJugs

Slack is almost always bad when you are belaying someone below you, especially on steep angles when , whether your anchor is stationary (a picket) or moving (a climber). Almost right, f=m*a (mass x acceleration) equals force. The longer you fall, the higher the acceleration. The higher the acceleration, the higher the force. momentum equals mass * velocity (p=m*v) . Simple physics. However, a dynamic belay is better than a static belay. Letting rope slip, as in a boot-axe or body belay, distributes the force (or the impulse) over a longer period of time. therefore, the anchor sees a lower maximum force. impulse (Ft)=mass* final velocity - mass * initial velocity. Impulse is the change in the momentum of a body (or falling climber) caused over a very short time. J = F delta t = delta p . delta means change in. Just trying to break down the arguments into their component parts using physics. Of course there are a few more variables to consider. Like is the belayer's self arrest able to withstand a greater force than a boot axe belay? Likely not. considering he is also trying to stop the forces his body is generating if he is moving. So maybe a little bit of slack is good to allow ... I dont have time to go into it. so if some engineer or physicist would like to take up the gauntlet, please educate! Thanks Issac Newton!

Yeah, there would have been a little suffering but I believe it would have been an acceptable margin of comfort and safety for me, I guess not for my partners. I guess it just goes to show that if you havent done alpine with a person often, you need to define goals and expectations before you leave the couch. Anyway, your advice really helped with that IT band thing. She kept doing that stretch and was able to hike out with about 20 lbs on her back. She actually beat me to the car! I have my own knee problems going downhill. And I was carrying about half her gear with mine. We though for sure that morning that we'd be leaving our packs behind and carrying her. So it worked out! Hope to bump into you again.

Just curious if anyone attempted or summited Prusik this last Sunday 6/12. We were up at Lake Vivianne and decided to bag it due to the redunkulous winds. Seemed to be 40-50mph. Even the goats were holding off on their ascent! I wanted to go (at least to check out the conditions at Prusik Pass) but my partners didnt feel like having an "adventure". I tried all methods of persuasion including the ego-challanging "pussies!", as well as the time-honored "its probably not as bad as it looks", but alas they were not budging. Our Objective was to be the west ridge. I know there were quite a few parties that also bagged it. At least 2 wanted to try the west ridge and one for South Face (Stanley and Burgner). Talked to Alister and PAt? at Vivianne after they climbed the South Face on Saturday. I pumped them for copiuos beta which they graciously revealed. Nice climbing guys! Anyways, I'm dying to know if the winds died down and at what time. We left around 8:30 AM. Gracios Amigos

Well, I went back on Saturday. I pulled into the parking lot at the Bend and saw 3 angels sitting in camping chairs tossing back some Bud. Turned out, they found my gear! What are the chances? Serious Karma points to Margeret and Scott of North Bend, and Sara. If you ever run into these guys, you already know you are dealing with honest and very cool folks!

Last Thursday, May 12, I was climbing at the Bend at Tieton. I think I left a treasure chest of gear there. We were climbing on Ed's Jam and a few climbs to the left about 300 yards around the corner. I thought my partner picked this stuff up but when he checked his pack today it wasnt there. Most biners are marked with green tape, some are newer and are unmarked. If you return these to me, I will be forever grateful. I will even give you one of the pieces if you have the need for it. Lost Gear: 3.0 Clog Cam 3.5 WC Friend 2 orange mammut double length runners w/ 2 biners each a set of Wild Country Nuts 1-7 and a few misc brands in that range pink, red tricam There may be one or two other pieces and or biners and slings but these are the ones I am certain about 206-919-2077 cascade_peaks@yahoo.com

These are still brand new and have never been worn outside. REady for Ice Season!!! REtail $420 Sell for $250 obo Call Ron 206-992-1819

Steve House is giving a clinic on Alaskan Mountaineering tonight, 7PM at Feathered Friends. The class is limited to 30 people! This is a great opportunity to learn from the master. I can't attend tonight due to last minute conflict. Will sell for the ticket value of $30 to the first person to contact me. Please call my cell phone 206-992-1819 because I will not get a chance to check email before 7PM. Check out the following link for more details: http://www.featheredfriends.com/retail_store/Calendar/EventDescription.aspx?id=6