JensHolsten

Wow...blast from the past. Anyone know of any new bouldering spots at banks besides those pictured and the obvious areas. I have logged so many hours over the years and hiked so many miles out there looking for new stuff...never found a damn thing (that was really worth climbing). Oh well, I will continue the search as I've always had a good time there regardless.

I think I've done the route...you can climb anywhere on the face (for the most part) at a moderate grade. The rock was nice and the way I went seemed to be about 5.5 to 5.6. I know there is a yoder 5.10 somewhere there...but the line certainly did not jump out at me. The descent is an easy stroll of the backside. The way I approached seemed to be a lot of hiking for a little climbing and I am sure there is a way to hike up the descent a bit then scramble in to the base of the face. I dropped down from the lakes (I don't know what they are called, sorry) and climbed scree and gullies for quite a long ways to the base of the face. This took much longer than the climb itself...there has to be a better way.

On a related note, Shriek of the Mutilated (croft/yoder) on Lower Castle Rock, has been cleaned (the crack was not even visible under the moss) and climbed. Awesome line, wild moves, great position, and bomber pro. One of the cooler routes in the T-water IMHO. Get after it!

I definetely would say that free soloing is a trend that is on the rise. Of course it "is as old as climbing itself", but it does seem that its glorification in climbing publications and climbing circles has contributed to a rise in popularity. I soloed nearly every day for five straight years and never thought a thing of it. I was not doing it to be rad, but just loved the experiance so much. Alone or with freinds, soloing was a part of life, and some of my best experiances climbing have been ropeless. Then, my main partner and one of my best freinds (James Lucas) hucked off the top of the North Overhang one morning. It was just another morning warm up for James, but it almost ended his life. I remember the somber mood, fear, and alarm that gripped our group of monkeys. No one soloed for quite a while. Some have returned to the pursuit, others have not, but everyone thinks more about what they are risking now. It blows James had to fall off the rock that day, but it saved lives I think (mine included). One of us would have botched it...also of note, I returned to the North Overhang one year after the accident with James. We climbed the route (with a rope of course) and crushed his demon. Two years later James is climbing harder than he ever has and has is eyes set on his dream climbs again...absolutely badass.

bump

Thanks for the tip AlpineK, but nothing in the mostly worthless 18 pages of that thread mentioned anything about No Such Thing...

Just wondering what the history of this climb (in between Damnation and MF) entails. I noticed it was bolted then chopped? Just as well, as it is a fine top rope and bolts on that face woud be extremely offensive in my opinion. With so much controversy surrounding the bolting and chopping of Dan's Dreadful Direct, I was just wondering why you NEVER hear anything about this climb and it's history. Next time your out at Castle throw a rope over it and give it a whirl. Great stone and engaging moves make it well worth it.

I second the "tools" notion. Thanks for the hard work Kelly. I definetely am looking foward to the book.

Marty- I do thank you for hauling my broke (nothing's changed, although I do have a car) ass around eastern Washington's finest crags. I mean that shit! I suggested La Belle's book because the original poster sounds like a beginner. Also, your book doesn't cover the potholes does it? Anyway, I can honestly say the Marty's book is the one to buy if you want to climb quality routes instead of crumbling basalt. Plus the book is a fun read and much clearer and more helpful than CWR. How's that for a plug! Hey Marty, I am going to be in China Bend this next weekend, fri, sat, and sun. I am psyched. You should come if you can. One more shout out: Buy Marty's book!!!!

That will be awesome when you crush that traverse in under 24 hours Wayne. Croft is/was sooo light duty...personally, I hold his link up in high regard (as I do yours Wayne). I think it is a great goal to repeat his feat, especially if someone can throw a few more technical routes in the mix.

There is definetely climbing at the Potholes. Check out Rick La Belle's (sp?)new guide to central washington rock. Very cool. Multiple desert venues are covered, as well as Banks Lake rock. Kind of a fun book to discover when you live in the middle of Washington. I know I am psyched to climb many of the routes in this book. Cheers! Jens

Ooohhh man...ya'all got me California dreaming. Joshua Tree has so many fun routes it's hard not to blank out trying to think of favorites. A few are: Figures On A Landscape, Solid Gold, Hidden Arch, Leave It To Beaver, Fote Hog, Tick Tick Boom, The Decompensator Of Lhasa, The Flue, Satanic Mechanic...the list goes on. What a fun place.

Thanks again for the pics Hoodie. That was a fun suprise to see those! The "R" designation is definetely for the crux pitch. Every pitch was more exciting than most I climb (seems to always happen in the mountains), but the real place to keep open eyes is pulling the crux roof. This feature, while incredibly splitter and fun, is a frightning collection of loose blocks. These blocks are all quite large and sharp. The rope being cut in the event of falling rock or even a leader fall is a possibility. Also, the belay is directly underneath the action (although when Max let loose a large block following the pitch it looked like it might have cleared the belay). That said, Max and I were blown away at how quality the climbing and the rock was on this line. I definetely recommend the route and would love to see what others think. Get after it!

Climb: Boola Boola Buttress-Black Velvet (possibly new) Date of Climb: 8/16/2006 Trip Report: Last Wednesday Jens and I (Max) climbed Boola Boola Buttress up a possible new line. The 1000' plus formation is riddled with nebulous cracks and face features, making identification rather difficult. We, like parties before us, planned to climb the 1984 Yoder et al route, however, the supposed "bullet-shaped formation" was nowhere to be found. Possibly one of the worst descriptions I have ever encountered, Jens and I spent some quality time reviewing the face from far and near, but eventually decided the only logical course of action was to start ascending by whatever path looked pleasing. To back up a day, we began our little adventure on Tuesday afternoon, strolling up to Colchuck Lake and then up the ever pleasant Asgard Pass. My first time up the much talked about pass, I'd say it deserves some of its reputation, but is over sort of quickly and deposits you in a spectacular location. I certainly wouldn't reccomend the Snow Creek trail for objectives near dragontail. In either case, we paused for a brief bouldering session, and then proceeded on to lovely Brynhild Lake, finding an adequate bivouac in the slabs leading to the plateau. After a restful night, we ditched all but the climbing gear, trudged over the col, and began the descent to the base of Boola. It would be helpful if one could gain a better vantage to scour the cliff, however, it is rather difficult to gain such a perch. What is clear is a distinction between several darker formations to the left, and a clean, white slabby section to the right, where I believe many of the newer routes have gone. (view of buttress, with our climb taking the far right side, barely visible) (the fine canadian liqour which inspired the routes' name) After deciding that Yoder's line is completely impossible to identify, we decided to head for a striking, left-facing corner about 200 feet above the ramps found at the base. I led up a beautiful 5.9 corner crack, through a small undercling roof, and gained the large ledge below the aforementioned corner. (first pitch, i'm just above the small roof) Although striking, the dihedral looked a little thin and possibly quite difficult to exit, so Jens chose a splitter flake to the right. I believe the Thank You Baby Jesus route begins to the right of this crack, after reviewing the pictures in that TR. Jens had not planned very far ahead, and soon found the feature ran out, leading him a few feet right, into another, more tenuous crack which, alas, also petered out to nothing. This left him with a daunting slab traverse back left (.10c), gaining a large black knob. After mantling this it was about ten feet to an uncomfortable alcove belay. (jens heading into the unknown on pitch 2) The next pitch turned out rather short, after a 5.6 chimney section and some blocky cracks I made a belay under a thin looking, left-facing corner, which I was a little wary off attempting before consultation with Jens. After deciding that it was either up or down, Jens sacked up and attacked the corner, luckily finding just enough gear to make it feasible (.10+R). From here the rock quality deteriorated greatly, much like the description of the 1984 route. Four pitches of 5.4 chimneys would pretty much describe it, though of course it was a little more complicated than that. After 3 loose ropelengths I arrived at what, from below, had appeared to be the buttress' summit, however, it was clear that some climbing still lay ahead. Another chossy pitch took us to a large ledge below the final "headwall", topped with a distinct double pronged summit, from the base it had appeared much farther away. There we were, though, hoping to get off in a few pitches and back to the lake for more delicious water. Jens tackled a short but physical 5.7 chimney to another ledge, where I racked up for the last pitch. Though not the hardest, and certainly not the best, this pitch tested my skills with loose rock and left me more than a little frightened. Thankfully, it did turn out to be the end, depositing us on the ridge just below Dragontail Plateau. (jens striking a victory pose with stuart looming in the background) A short hike found us back at the col above our bivy, all in all a speedy descent once at the actual summit. All that was left was a ton of downhill hiking, sure to give our feet some long term damage. Back at the trailhead, we found our bikes conveniently stashed, along with a couple victory beers. We'd found a ride in, but with no phone reception, it was easier to hop on the bikes and roll down to leavenworth. Another victory beer at ducks, along with a giant burger, gave us just enough energy to pedal back to peshastin and crawl into bed. (mmm, victory beer) P.S. Oh yeah, anyone who has ventured to this formation please submit any info, pictures, etc. you have. The TYBJ TR is the only one I can find, but I know more of you have been out there. Let's consolidate boola boola beta! Gear Notes: doubles to one camalot 1 two camalot 1 three camalot small selection of wires Approach Notes: Pretty obvious approach, car would be nice.

Hi guys- I just moved to the Leavenworth area and need to make some cash flow. If anyone lives in the Leavenworth area and has or knows of work opportunities send me a pm. I work hard and am very dependable. Even if you don't know about the work thing, pm me so we can go climb some rocks. Jens

Bump! My girlfreind and I are also looking for a place to rent ASAP. She already lives in L-Town, but her lease is up and she is looking for a change of scenery. The cheaper the better, but any leads anyone might have will be appreciated. Come on and help a couple of motivated dirtbags out...thanks guys.

That shot of On The Lamb is beautiful enough to bring tears to my eyes! Damn, I love the meadows. Mikey is right on in his post above; it's all about Fairview Dome.

To clear up a little confusion on the never ending Red M& M's grade debate, take a look at climbingwashington.com. Smoot lists his 11b rating as a misprint and gives the route 12a. Do I think the route is 12a? It definetely feels light, although I would give it 11+ while onsighting. I feel that the full Japanese Gardens pitch is less difficult and Red M&M's is definetely the harder lead. The bottom line is who gives a fuck. I think Red M&M's is a beautiful climb especially when it catches evening light. I find it odd that so many people bash Vantage as an area. Like every crag, there are shitty routes and a handful of really good routes (many of which I have never seen anyone on). Hell, most of my own freinds would rather pull plastic then climb out there. Not me.

Hmmm...I don't know if I believe this claim. Maybe my mind is too closed to realize the possiblity of such a feat, but damn...I just dunno.

Hey Jens, cool name...someone added one bolt at an inconvenient spot on top of Spellbould, adding to the smc's and the one shitty homemade bolt. And about Midnight Rock having better trad climbing than index....that's a bold statement, although who am I to talk. I haven't been to index this fall after falling under Midnight's spell!

Thanks Matt for having the motivation for a project like this. I would say that more than anything else, Midnight Rock needs a cleanup. Many anchors and bolts have been replaced-the problem (I notice this all over crags in Washington) is no one takes out the old bolts after they throw new ones in. WTF. Finish the job! Stevens Pass Motel, Spellbound, and many climbs at Index have four to five bolts at each anchor. Two good ones and the old shitty, trashy ones. Have fun up there Matt, the hang is unbelievable.

Hmmm, is the project you speak of the seam directly to the left of the climber in the photo? If so, that is a cool looking line! My question to those who have seen it is how far from other crack systems is the seam. In the picture there appears to be a wider crack just to the left. Is the project an independent and pure line or a desperate eliminate??

I was just wondering...with all the worry about the bottom of SPM being scary, what the hell is up with the top! Seems miles more heady than the bottom! Does anyone know whether the climb takes the face or the crack at the top?? Sweet route!!

Hey Rudy, I fully agree. I think if you take time to hear the tone of my post, you'll see that a chopping war is the last thing I want. Taking out bolts deemed unecessary by the Index community as a whole is more along the lines of what I was talking about. I wouldn't take any action unless I was there with the folks who played significant roles in the development of the cliff. You're right though, a chopping war would do more good than harm. Jens

Some good discussion. Just a quick question here. Is putting two bolts next to a former pin flake considered ok at Index? I have not climbed at Index that much and am still trying to get a grip on the local ethics. Everytime I bring a first timer to Index one of their first comments regards the plethora of bolts on the cliff. They always leave having enjoyed the routes (and with their asses kicked), but most of the time mention concern with the amount of bolts on the cliff. I have to admit, there are a lot of bolts (which should be kept to a bare minimum in my opinion). Are there bolts which the Index community obviously deems unworthy of being on the cliff? If so, maybe they should be removed. I would be happy to help (not without the consent of others who know the area better) while I am in town. Also, just wanted to say thanks to Inacan for his awesome cleaning energy. I definetely agree with that ethic! Jens