JensHolsten

Super cool!!

First off. No offense taken Bill!! All good man, all good. Thx for pulling me in here I know my answer is kinda simplistic, but for me, this viewpoint helps me understand my decisions about pursuing climbing. I don’t want any illusions. For me, they are a disservice. I really think it’s important to recognize my fragile mortality everyday. I think it’s important to be grateful everyday for health, love, and happiness. Step three is to get out there and do what you love while trying to stay as safe as possible. But like I said above, there are things I don’t understand. I don’t think any of us would ever want our climbing friends to not follow their dreams (maybe I’m wrong?), but the pain is nearly unbearable when a friend is lost. Sometimes our actions in the wake of an accident may seem desperate and that’s ok. We are only human. When a close friend dies your heart may shatter into a million pieces. I’ve come to believe it’s about gathering the pieces that were scattered and putting yourself together again. The pieces won’t fit together quite the same way and that’s ok. Give yourself time (lots of time!) and keep inching forward. Reach out to the people who love you and let them support you. This is all I got after losing friends to both sickness and mountain accidents. I watched my mother die of cancer and Chad died by my side in a horrific accident on Fitz Roy. Both deaths were very traumatic for me and understanding how I can continue living and loving has been the theme of my life the past 10 years. It’s been beyond hard, but I’m as happy as I’ve ever been. I love myself and I’m learning to own my story. It is a wild journey. Sorry to take this thread a different direction. For me, I’ve been concerned about the boys in AK and I’ve applauded their climbing over the years too. As a lifelong climber still dedicated to the game, this seems totally natural to me. Just my take on it!

My name was mentioned above (I think). It seemed in reference to my ability to stay alive and climb in the mountains. Just to be clear: I’m alive because I’ve been lucky. No more, no less. Sure, I try to mitigate risk as much as possible, but when you are going for it in the mountains on a regular basis, the odds of an accident increase. Climbing is a dangerous sport. It always has been. Life is dangerous too. I know that for me, climbing and skiing in the mountains is absolutely worth it. That said, the pain is crushing when someone is lost. Absolutely crushing. I still don’t know how to make sense of it, but I’ve accepted that there are many things I’ll never wrap my head around in this lifetime.

Bellows-I have no idea how to get the pics from my phone to this forum, sorry. Maybe I misspoke. There is ice around. A lot of it is pretty crudy in my opinion, but it is ice. The big, classic, more difficult routes are not in. I do think it could snap into better shape if it got cold. I live near wenatchee...it's been really warm here. That said, it's different at Banks. I don't know...wa ice!

Spent 1/9 and 1/10 at Banks Lake...which was not in good shape. There was climbing to do, but Zenith, The Cable, and H202 were def not in...Some pitches that were forming fell down Saturday night too. Shitting Razorblades looked by far to be the most inspiring objective. We climbed the first pitch, but bailed on the second. The shower effect was too much. I couldn't look up to climb and became 100% soaked. Water was running into my jacket and pants and coming out down at my boots, filling them with water in minutes. It was "fun". I threaded off when hypothermia became a possibility. A classic weekend of WA ice! Temps were about 34 day and night. 6 inches of snow on the ground. The fog was unrelenting. If it actually gets cold, Banks won't take long to shape up...

Nicely done Kyle and Bryce!!

Right on guys! That's a really fun route...I've always wanted to climb the variation that blasts up the right side of the Fin, but never found it there. I've climbed another gully (crux of the route for sure!) just right of the "right side of the Fin" and twice finished on the upper Serpentine, which is also really fun mixed climbing. The north face of Dtail is loaded with options!

Really cool guys. Hats off!

You're right Kevino, this is a great window for many objectives in the Cascades. I hope to see some folks getting after it!!

Thank you Lowell!

I got into the Stuart Range this past weekend. Conditions were trying on the approach with nearly every slippery step on glass like ice...Once I got above 6,000 feet I found variable snow, from squeaky neve to shin deep wind packed pow. The Northwest Buttress isn't the hardest route around but it's varied and beautiful, making for a good winter climb. Check out the report: http://www.jensholsten.blogspot.com/2013/12/patagonia-tune-up-first-winter-ascent.html

I did a little writing about some of the ice I've been climbing recently. Nothing spectacular, but super fun none the less. Hope everyone is having fun swinging the tools out there! http://www.jensholsten.blogspot.com/2013/12/here-today-gone-tomorrow-week-of.html

unbelievably inspiring. Thx Mark!

You been on the rig slab_master? That would be cool! Yep that equation is about right, except the second boulder problem may be as hard as V7 or V8, which is why I'm not totally sure of the grade. I know for sure the second bp is harder than V5 though It's tough in L-town because everything is so short, so the grade really depends on a translation from the V system.

Hey Pete- In the film I give it 12+. I really don't know though...somewhere between 12c and 13b?? The film shows every move...give it a go and tell me what ya think! It really is a fine route. For sure, the best cragging pitch I've ever established.