markd

this spring was lots of fun in central oregon: found some new climbs and managed to send some of them too. are you coming up for opening day soon? new-school classic.

pink, you're such a smarty-pants-know-it-all

in an effort to start talking and thinking about excellent climbs, i'm going to bump this ancient thread. in the pic below two climbs are being led; one by a cc.com sprayer, and one by and old school master.

this question still seems to be unanswered so i'll do my best to clear it up. the anchor that was first led to is NOT the top of the first pitch. it is a retro anchor that was placed so the first half of the pitch could be led at 10c with no severity rating. the original anchor is higher and if you lead the first pitch complete you'll have to climb 5.11a r. disclaimer: i was not there when the fall was taken.

looks like a good route bill on some aesthetic gorge andesite. is this the fa?

i had always looked at freeing that as well - would be hard! andrew's two bolt route out the left side is really good as well. above that you can climb up a few more pitches of tree and rock climbing that's fun during the closed season.

"jacob's ladder" i'm in p-town, without a car, if someone wants to scoop me and climb tomorrow, i'd be down. heading out to broughton with snoop and moira soon, if anyone wants some north face action.

nice job fgw. way to go out there and be a 'real' climber. it seems you've found enough adventure up there for all of us. again, way to hang it out there and make memories out of your biggest dreams.

yes! didn't we meet at tyler's shindig earlier this year?

they are out of print and no longer sold.

i can help however i'm needed, and would like to be part of the process. let me know.

don't get me wrong bill, i think the new master cams are designed well. it appears a cam has finally been manufactured that can compete with the alien design. the cam has a very narrow profile head and with the single stem down the middle it allows the cam to fit into placements nicely that might have been hard with another cam. i imagine these will become very popular and rightfully so. my only complaints, so far, is i believe they shouldn't sacrifice lobe width and the trigger would be nicer if it had something covering the metal with a little more size. IMHO, i think metolius should stop making the offset ultralights and start making master cam offsets.

maybe you didn't notice "IMHO" before i made the comments about the cams. it is my opinion that the new metolius cams are not a finished product and i stand behind it! i use metolius cams as well, just the old school ones. this isn't about if CCH or metolius is better, it's about how good the new metolius cams are. i didn't make the original comparison between the two; just responded to it. i don't care which cam people think is better. but as a side note: don't you think it's a little interesting that the new metolius cams look almost identical to aliens?

not really. we sell more aliens than tcu's at the shop i work at by a significant amount. i have used the new metolius cams and i agree they're good, i just don't think they're a finished product that should be on the market yet. IMHO, metolius has been going down hill at a rapid pace since they discontinued their original tcu and put out the ultralights.

while i agree that the new cams look good, they have their flaws. for one, the heads of the lobes are significantly thinner than the original tcu's and CCH for that matter. they also don't have a good trigger as it's hard to grab the small metal handle. IMHO, i think they should at least have a better trigger and thicker lobes. as for putting CCH out of business; i doubt it.

it's eric. ( freed upper dutchman ) not sure about the hexes.

fgw, looks like smith rock group in background but you've creatively cropped white satin?

this is probably easy:

nice kevbone. dan_forester, yes it's koala rock. it's the thin air start with hand crack traverse into the 5.9 bolted route ( suck my kiss? ).

no, its not monkey face.

this route has no name but is on an obvious formation:

good eye peter. crack a go go it certainly is. what a great route.

a yosemite valley classic:

jim ablao.

joseph, i look forward to getting on those roofs with you next year! here's my favorite: