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Everything posted by ChestBeater
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[TR] Mt. Garfield - Infinite Outrage (Bliss) to p. 20 6/15/2012
ChestBeater replied to JasonG's topic in Alpine Lakes
Yer backclipped bro! -
Rainier is a funny mountain. As a triathlete, marathoner, climber myself, I have had great success on Rainier. I'm three for three so far on two different routes. Two of those were in very poor weather, and we were some of the only parties to summit. I attribute it to being damn stubborn and stronger than most. The first two times I did it I trained like an animal and did great. The last time I did it off the couch and everyone was calling me an "animal" for being so strong. I chalk that up to a good base fitness and good genes. I would not recommend getting on a two-man rope team with a novice that does not know crevasse rescue. Have I done it myself? Yes. Would I do it now? No. There is some very good, hard earned advice from all the other guys. Take the time to earn Rainier. I think it is a good goal (one that I attained) to be able to do Rainier without help from other expert climbers- IE- not being dependent on other people for knowledge, expertise, or assistance short of emergency help). Too many people just eek by, just a simple mistake short of disaster. Do yourself and everyone else a favor and get the experience necessary. It bastardizes climbing when you go through the motions without getting the experience. I understand that you have time limitations and I respect that. But don't expect to slide on through without any problems when you try to wing it. Just this last trip we turned around 2 people who were scared, inexperienced, under-trained, and unprepared for the hazards and challenges that Rainier can bring about.
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OK, let's be serious for a sec.... Nekid pics?
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I like alpine and ice climbing on a single 8mm half rope cuz its light and I dont plan to fall off anyhow...
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I get the felling that a good percentage here don't know when the risk is acceptable and when it is not.
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I have numerous friends I climb with, they are guides, engineers, doctors, rangers, students, and unemployed dirtbags. They may have written guidebooks, may have been guides, may even have criminal records, but that is really irrelivant. The fact is this, they are wonderful people whom I share pitches, pitchers and good times.
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Cool. Not sure I'd call it a winter ascent though (even thought it's quite an accomplishment this time of year).
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I see what you are saying. If there are ethics near the branches, it's not free climbing. Gotcha. I think you get what everyone has been trying to tell you, so I'm not going to pile on. I do want to share one thing with you though and I hope that you'll really think about it: I've been climbing for 11 years.
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Nobody asked for my opinion but I've been teaching the last few weekends (and not climbing) and I'm feeling a little feisty also so I'm going to share my thoughts too... I'm personally not interested in pursuing 8000m peaks. I think it's an impressive and lofty goal and it might be something that I eventually consider someday. I really admire those dedicated enough to see it through. My take on it, is that there are so many peaks that I want to climb right now that offer a technical alpine experience that I'd hate to get bogged down slogging up 8000m chosspiles. For me, looking at a Becky or Nelson guidebook opens up a lifetime of climbing options - far more than I'll likely ever be able to accomplish as a weekend warrior. There are peaks that I've had on my wish list for 5 years now that I haven't even had time to consider. I couldn't possibly put aside up my lust for those peaks to pursue something else. Maybe someday...
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That's the way you think when you're new, inexperienced and summit hungry.
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Climbing trees is dangerous. I'd being doing you a disservice if I looked the other way. I know how easy it must feel for you to be angry at me right now and I'm really sorry that I can't be more positive. I've been in your shoes... Please be careful.
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I know some very accomplished and well-respected climbers. I've had the privilege of climbing with one who also happens to be a very accomplished photographer and guidebook author. I know for a fact that the climber I am referencing would never refer to himself in a public forum as any of these.
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What a flipping joke. That was as sorry an attempt at recovery as your attempt at writing a thoughtful, complete sentence. You should go back to school and: 1) Learn how to read & write. 2) Learn how to take photos. 3) Learn some manners.
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Sometimes I worry about posting TRs on this site and the possibility that they could be misconstrued as a guidebook or instruction.
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OLD NEWS! I knew about this story 46-million years ago. TRY TO CATCH UP!
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You are probably one of those guys who wouldn't humble themselves to go on a nice, simple hike and enjoy the great outdoors and write a nice trip report about it. It's not "cool" or "extreme" enough for you I guess. Well, I'm not above posting a trip report (or a few hundred) about hiking even though I'm plenty qualified to rope up with most of the people on this website. I lead Mountaineers outings. Do you? I didn't think so.
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That's real impressive there sporto boy wonder. Those top-ropin' skills probably won't help you too much when you are out there in the alpine pushin' it on the sharp end. I'm talking about real climbing. Like Yellowjacket Tower for instance. Let me know when you head up there so I can get my rescue gear ready.
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You are gonna love my nuts.
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That child obviously needs some formal training in winter survival. Look at all the mistakes it is making. sigh. I'll probably be getting a page to go haul it's corpse off the mountain anytime now.
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You aren't qualified to carry my windshirt much less post in this thread.
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A few things about me: - I've hiked all of my life. - I've been skiing for 26 years - I've been climbing for 12 years. My climbing partners (past & present) include: - 2 climbing guidebook authors - 1 author of a self-rescue book - 1 AMGA rock and ice guide (my rope was the first he ever tied into) - 1 former non-accredited alpine guide in WA state - 1 current non-accredited guide in WA state I'm not saying this to brag or massage my ego. Most on this site don't know anything about the 2nd list. I usually keep this stuff pretty close to me because that's how I am. I've learned from the aforementioned people that being a good climber also includes keeping your ego in check.
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3 minutes to climb 30 feet!??! WTF?
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Damn doood. What held you up? I did it in 3:30 with 21 draws and only pitched out one or two pitches. Gaper.
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I would like to take this opportunity to say that I climbed Liberty Ridge with a mountaineering axe and a little kiddie toy axe. I am the shit.
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Hey Nick, That's really great. Thanks for sharing.