schnitzem

Anyone know what Chair Peak and the Tooth Ice conditions are like? Would like to get up before work for a quicky....

your Kennedy reference is exactly my point....they used his case study to push for ski area helmet laws....but kennedy hit a tree while playing football and head injuries would not have been prevented unless he was wearing a motorcross helmet! stupid stupid stupid

Just found the article http://www.freep.com/news/health/rec28_19991228.htm The funny thing is that pro-helmet groups say that 15% of all injuries are head injuries and 88% of all fatalities are from head injuries...and thus conclude that helmets will save lives....but if you look at the case studies, most of the deaths are from people hitting trees at 25mph+ No way would a helmet protect you from this

Not to start a spray fest......but I think ski helmets are stupid This is not just my opinion, but a conclusion of a survey that was done last year by one of the ski mags. They found that head trauma is a very uncommon ski injury as compared to knee, back, and neck injuries. In fact I think they found that neck injuries went up when wearing ski helmets......most likely because skiiers feel immortal when wearing a helmet. Helmets reduce visibility, mobility, and hearing and appear to have limited safety benefits. Just my humble opinion of course somone should check my refs

It is a crag. It does not need one, as pointed out, it already exists, although no one planned it as such. The whole original post is absolutely ridiculous. Preaching to the choir I guess the thing that really struck me as stupid is the idea of hauling two 60M ropes up a 5-6 pitch route just so you can save 10 minutes and a little effort. and just to get the record straight, I can't back my truck up to the bottom of Snow Creek wall and belay off my bumper......so it ain't a crag.

whatever fag. i wrote my suggestion to 'buy some decent tools. two of em. and reputable tools too. climb ice. climb some more ice.' didnt specify any fuckin shape. odds are the dude will learn that he likes something a little different from whatever he first gets so fuck it. like them nike marketers say: just do it bitch. Just the response I had hoped for.... ....just trying to get a little "spice" into a otherwise boring subject....that and propagate my humble opinion across the forum. Any way you are the fag....big meany

Don't listen to him.... .......if you want to compromise get the straight shafts, but one day on a steep ice route and you will have bruised and bloodied your hands to hell if you don't get some bent tools. Of course finances typically don't allow for us to have the best of all worlds, so I would suggest getting one straight for your left hand and a bent for your right hand (if you are a righty otherwise....vs.vs). Sounds stupid...but compromise always is.

Rappelling off Snow Creek is ridiculous. The hike off the top is 20 minutes max…if you know where you are going……and not unpleasant if you bring along some shoes….which is a much lighter option then having to carry two 60 M ropes! Is the goal on Snow Creek to turn it into a crag? Why Why Why does the wall need a fixed rap?

Really depends on what type of routes you are doing. If you are going for fast and light don't touch the Black Diamond Cams - bulky - heavy . Metolius cams are lighter and can take more abuse, although there range is a bit less and there larger cams have crappy actions. If you are aiding a bunch get CCH Aliens.

Hey bud. Take it easy now I think you've been hooked on the trolling line. More like the fifi hook That and I couldn't let you get away with that comment without at least one what the "hell"

Good Pic. I agree that the boxtop is a bit sand bagged and more committing than Beckey suggests....but there is no way in hell that bolts are neccessary on the peak.....plenty of horns and chockstones just require parties to leave a few slings behind. Just because a 30 M rope can't get you off a peak easily, does not justify bolting............bring a longer rope or expect to leave gear!

Confusing raps on boxtop, we finally rapped off the southside (3 raps with a 60M rope). Beckey says to rap on west side (true summit) off of a big horn....no thanks. Beckey has a typo on the High Priest rap, it should read do one rap off the east face not the west face. West face is 400 ft long and pitons are found on east face. Beckey also sandbagged the West face of High Priest.....he says 4th class...but it is clearly 5th and tons of fun!

I used the ion LED on trail run recently that pushed through the night (30 hour push). I noticed that after a few hours of hiking with the LED that it gave me a weird headache and when I would turn it off to give my eyes a rest, I had blurry spots. I have never noticed this when using my P etzl. Anyone else notice this problem with LEDs? Also they suck when it is really dusty out - the LED light is displaced much easier by particles in the air.

I put-up a two pitch route on Kissing Rock outside of Gold Beach, Oregon about 6 years ago. The route follows the north west rib up the path of least resistance. I had to place a few bolts and pitons on the ascent because the gear was non-existant and the cracks were way to crumbly. Overall the route was really fun and never over 5.7.....of course when I got on top I found two '60s era bolts on the north side (this face looks really sweet and is probably 5.9). The south west side has a lot of very steep boulder problems on it as well. Further down the coast at Pistol River a bunch of good boulders litter the beach with fun problems all over them...I also found more '60s era bolts on some of these boulders as well.

Hey ryland_moore , good connection....although I guess there weren't too many of us climbing last weekend. How was the rest of your trip? My buddy and I were jealous of your set-up.....two nights ....wine....girlfriend.... I was pretty stoked about our climb until ~Nada lake when I realized I had slammed to much water to fast after being dehydrated for most of the day. Are you in the Seattle area?

Unfortunately yes, would have loved to hit them too (noticed your earlier response) but did not have the time or energy. When you climbed Monument did you have to prusik the final summit block - like Beckey recomends?

Thanks for the tips. Went for it this weekend in reverse starting with Mt. Temple, High Priest, Boxtop, and ending with Prusik. Great rock on all of the peaks....although it was hard to stay on the ridge proper for most of the climb. Boxtop was classic and the West Ridge of Prusik was the cherry on top. Only problem we had was water as Erik pointed out (in response)....so we got way dehydrated by the time we finished Prusik and I chucked a couple of times on the 10 mile hike out. Thanks

Aesthetically the traverse is much more impressive when you have Forbidden in front of you rather than the chossy ridge of Torment in your face. That and it is very anticlimactic to end on Torment. Technically: getting onto Torments SE face from the ridge is tricky and descending off of Torment is a pain (3-4 crappy raps). Anyway just some thoughts.........

Scheming a traverse across the Temple ridge spires in the Enchantments starting with Prusik Peaks south face then onto the Flake, Boxtop, Pogo Pinnacle, the High Priest….and ending with Mt. Temple. The traverse looks great on paper…..but is it feasible? Any beta or thoughts would be much appreciated.