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Everything posted by bremerton_john
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We did the south peak last fall. Route 7 in the book losely describes it, or at least the start and finish anyway. If you stay on the north side of Jefferson Creek right from the start you will follow an on-again, off-again path paralleling the creek for a mile and a half or so. The path then turns abruptly uphill, paralleling a creek for a while then you must find your way through the slide alder before coming out of the brush in the 4000 foot basin. From here it is up the slabby rock a couple hundred feet to the basin below the summit ridge, from which you can choose your route. If you go left (south-west) and up to the ridge crest it makes a very enjoyable ridge walk with a couple of steps to negotiate.
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Good News! Dosewallips washout to be bypassed.
bremerton_john replied to Fairweather's topic in Access Issues
Definitely good news. Indeed, this restores some faith in the Forest Services' management capabilities. -
Uh, MtGuide, I'm going to go out on a limb here, but I think Will was being sarcastic. Though I agree with your views, save 'em for mist, eh, spray.
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The link doesn't work - or maybe I don't...
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Let's see, long approach, route finding, pucker factor, no pro - Yep, it's an Olympics climb alright! Just to my liking.
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No problem commi. Tell me about Destroyer. Those I've spoken to who have tried were not technical rock climbers, and they said they could not get up the last section to the summit. How much 5th class climbing is there? (Spaseba Bolshoi) - butchered Russian.
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I posted the note in the Oly section that got this debate underway. Personally, I don't like flagging for much of the same reasons as others here have already stated. An interesting side note, though, is that apparently while the Park Service at Olympic used to have a policy of removing any flagging they found, they have since changed their minds and decided that keeping the flagging out there has the slim chance of helping someone lost get out, and saving the Park Service the hassle. The rumor is that some Tacoma or Olympia Mountaineers are flagging a few bushwack approaches in the Olympics. Mt. Pershing is another example.
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I found out last night from someone who knows, that the flagging connects you with the approach to Destroyer and route 5 on Constance. It just avoids the creek area and starts heading up sooner. The new guidebook revision will have more to say about the east side approaches to Costance.
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Was up Tunnel Creek this weekend doing the ridge beyond the bump above Harrison Lake. On the way back down into the woods noticed someone had flagged a route into the brush behind the Shelter on the trail. Anyone have any info on where this goes? I suspected it is maybe an alternate approach to Constance, perhaps route 7.
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No, but I'd be interesting in knowing a bit more about the route myself. Anyone?
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I've not attempted the Dome before, however I do have a rather interesting TR from an old fellow whose been climbing the Olys for years. He didn't make the top, but has spent quite some time exploring the approaches and lower rocks from the Duckabush side. His description leaves you with the impression that there is no obvious lines and that the rock is of the worst variety. The TR is in hardcopy format, I'll see if I can find. Or maybe MTNEER has it in digital format?
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What a collosal waste of time...
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Man, I'd kill to be only 1.5 hours from Squamish. Can't you play hooky every now and then?
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I saw your decription from earlier in the year and the photos you posted. Looked like a great outing. That is one of the routes we would like to feature in that section. We plan on going out next year, going over the route, and compilling comments from others (such as yourself) to put together a (much needed) better description. This is typical for a lot of the routes in the book, though the total number to get special attention in the Alpine Rock section will be fairly low. I'd welcome any additional info you have.
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Another change to the 4th edition of the Oly Climbers Guide will be the addition of an Alpine Rock section. Some existing routes in the book will see significant revision, information and sketches added, but also some new routes will be added. Even though the Olympics aren't thought of as having great alpine technical rock, there are some great exceptions as many of you who've spent time in the Olympics know. That said, we are soliticing suggestions for any routes that you feel merit specific attention in this new section. This is seperate from the new crags section, and will consist of climbs that are 5th class, are more than a casual hike from the road, and are worthy of detailed description. Examples would include certain routes on Constance, the Needles, Sawtooths etc. There will be time before the book goes to editing for field work .
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good routes after washington and ellinor
bremerton_john replied to wind_river51's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Another good climb is Pershing up the Hamma Hamma valley. Great views of the backside of Washington, some nice short 3rd/4th class rock scrambles and a fun, thin ridge walk to the summit make for a great day's outing. The route up through the trees has been cut and cleared somewhat and also flagged, making route finding up through the jungle a lot easier than it used to. Book says 8 hours up, which was accurate before the trail work. Now it's more like 6.5 hours for an average Joe like me. Don't forget some other great full day Oly bushwacks in that area like Lightening and Lincoln. -
I got the show taped in case anyone misses it again.
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For me, I'll more often than not take the risk of getting the ropes stuck, particularly since I don't make a habit of using a prusik or similar backup. You can usually rap down to the ends, free the knots and climb back up to the rap ledge if you have to. Back on topic: "You don't mind if my girlfriend belays you, do you? I want her to learn how."
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i never tie knots in the rope ends....increases the odds of gettin them stuck. I agree there are times not to tie the knots: relatively short raps and some raps on mutli-pitch. But I've read too many account of experienced climbers "free-solo rappelling" after the ends of the ropes whipped through their device.
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"Did he remember to tie a knot in the ends of those ropes.."
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Rock Jocks, Wall Rats and Hangdogs! This book is major hilarious. John Long has to be the funniest climbing SOB out there.
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Reading about climbing accidents...