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Rad

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Posts posted by Rad

    [TR] Luna Peak - Standard Route - True Summit 09/05/2020

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Ian Lauder said:

    LOL, yea, we did the Eiley Wiley ridge route in and out for Challenger last month. Got a taste of that already. Next trip there next season we may shoot for both Furys. We've planned a full traverse multiple times last year but weather kept us out every time.

    You're on a roll. Even a partial southern Picket traverse - say West Mac to Inspiration to Degenhart - would be spectacular. 

    [TR] Luna Peak - Standard Route - True Summit 09/05/2020

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    28 minutes ago, Ian Lauder said:

    Only our 2nd trip into the Northern Pickets so I couldn't speak to early season vs late. But the travel was relatively easy considering other late season approaches we've done where we would want snow. We could have just missed someone along the way who may have camped off the trail, but we didn't come across any other pairs on the way in and when we asked the pair was saw it wasn't them.  So who knows, and that's just the word from one of the resort boat drivers.  And I'm counting "success" in this context against hitting the high point where the summit register is if you are logging them on Peakbagger or something like that.

    Sounds great. Other amazing adventures await you out there if you have a taste for Pickets suffering. Enjoy!

    Hardware Suggestions

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Dynamic ropes are needed for lead climbing, but it sounds like you have more of an ascending the rope thing in mind. Static rope is better for jugging.

    Regarding protecting the tree from the rope, look at this thread for some ideas. It's what I found in 5 minutes of Googling. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112825859/peterskill-tree-anchors-protocol

    You'll probably find more if you look under static line set up or maybe arborist rigs. 

    Camp / bivy sites in Inspiration Backcountry Zone

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    There is a toilet at the Eldo bivy, which might save you some blue bagging. Check w rangers or others on whether or not it's currently available. The Eldo bivy also has running water relatively close, though perhaps not this early in the season. On the flip side, the Eldo site can be a high traffic area and won't feel as remote as northern reaches of the glaciers. It can also be harder to get permits there.

    My very limited expereince in the zone you're talking about was a couple of years ago when we went to/from Early Morning Spire. We decided to camp at Eldo for a variety of reasons. There were several flat spots past Eldo on the way to our target couloir that would have made fine campsites. Some were more protected than others. I don't recall any having running water near them, but I wasn't really looking. If conditions are good and your permit allows, you could just go walk out there and stop at the spot that seems the best. Theh further North you go the more wild/remote/private your experience.

     

    Hood South Side TRs

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    22 hours ago, JasonG said:

    While we're at it, we should ban TRs from climbs that are too hard for most people. 

    I don't like TRs that make me feel weak!

     

    Yes, and we should ban TRs from people who carry SLRs into the back country with the express purpose of making my iphone 6S photos look like shite.

    • Like 1
    • That's funny! 1

    Hood South Side TRs

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    After long deliberation, we have come up with a solution:

    DON'T CLICK ON THOSE TRs.

    We want more TRs on this site, not less. Enthusiastic noobs are welcome and I think we shouldn't make them feel unimportant or small. Colin, Marc-Andre, Blake, and many others started out as enthusiastic noobs here. It was awesome to watch them develop into amazing and inspiring climbers.

    Thanks for the soft ball. You can come out from under your desk now. :)

     

    • Like 3

    Most REAL experiences climbing

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    If by "real" you mean experiences where you are really present in the moment because things have gone sideways, I've had a few. Thankfully no major injuries or deaths. One was when a long time partner and friend set off to lead that last pitch on Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff. He got stuck below a corner running with water and set up a belay to bring me up to see the situation for myself so we could decide what to do. Unfortunately, he set up the belay in the running water and was quickly becoming wet and hypothermic. It was twilight and we had about 30 minues before dark. I had to do a series of aid and free moves up that soaking steep corner quickly to get us out of there before we got in real trouble. That was my first time doing more than one or two moves of aid, and my inexperience heightened an already tense situation. Fortunately it all worked out. I remember crawling into the shrubbery at the summit just as it got dark and quickly setting up a spider web anchor to bring up my partner. We got him into dry clothes and walked down in the dark together via the top of the Old Man of the Mountain. Tragedy narrowly averted.

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