Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Thanks for the heads up. The "check for more than the amount" is a classic scam. They've prob stolen or forged the checks and want to pocket some cash before the check bounces. Glad you didn't fall for it.
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Brilliant. Thanks for sharing that.
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Wow! Nice work!
As you prepare for bigger objectives, consider watching the Alpine Mentors videos from Steve House to up your mental game. Really good stuff.
They are on the page here: https://www.alpinementors.org/
Happy New Year y'all!
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Ivan on lap 187 of Das Baconlard in a Class 3 atmospheric river, then getting a speedy 188 in a sun break:
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What's the difference between a sewer and a sewer?
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One sews shit and the other sows shit (I have to pay $$$ to fix the latter recently so that shit is on my mind).
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Brad Gobright died in a fall in Potrero Chico.
Kyra Condie and Nathanial Coleman qualified for the Olympics and local star Sean Bailey came super close (videos on IFSC Youtube).
Emily Harrington had a big fall on El Cap but walked away with only minor injuries.
I think I have emotional whiplash.
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On 11/26/2019 at 9:47 AM, Bronco said:
I agree with this and will often carry an extra base layer shirt in case I get sweaty or wet from rain/brush on the approach.
Ditto. I often get sweaty hiking to the start of technical climbing and will change into a clean dry base layer before roping up and launching. Best to avoid getting sweaty in the first place, if possible, but carrying a pack swiftly uphill is going to lead to sweat for me in most conditions.
Don't be silly, start chilly!
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The heli pilots should have a good indication of where these goodies were tossed.
Or maybe we can look for nibbling goats and snaffles acting strangely.
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A complicated selection process is turning into a hot mess as the japanese climbing federation sues IFSC over Olympic selection issues. I know some of you old curmudgeons don't care about climbing in the Olympics, but it's a big deal, and Team Japan has been dominating comps for a few years now. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out. Hopefully IFSC can fix this mess sooner rather than later.
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13 hours ago, Kameron said:
"Lost property" versus "Mislaid property"
Abandoned property. Climbers usually only leave gear mid-route when they are retreating.
My partner and I bailed off Gorillas in the Mist a few years ago when we got off route up high in the face of approaching wet weather. We rapped down complex, overhanging terrain in the dark, leaving multiple nuts, slings, and carabiners. We split the cost of the gear we left behind. It's loss was a small price to pay for safely getting off the route. It didn't occur to me then, and doesn't now, that we might ask future parties to collect our abandoned gear and return it to us. That seems like a very entitled attitude. Whoever finds these things is welcome to keep them. If that person chooses to search for the owners because that's what they want to do, then that's their prerogative.
In another example, I inadvertently left my helmet high on the corkscrew trail on Sloan when Brandon and I unroped to scramble for the summit after climbing Diamond in the Rough. A few years later, I was communicating with another Sloan climber and learned that he had found my helmet and brought it down the mountain. He kindly offered to return it, but at that point I had chalked it up as lost for good and had replaced it. I told him he could keep it or pass it on to someone else who could use it.
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1 hour ago, JasonG said:
What about a bolt ladder on something that hasn't seen a free ascent, like on Monkey Face? We encountered this at Smith in 2003 without a note or sign anywhere around to indicate someone was working the route. No ropes, no chalk, not a soul around, but new draws on every bolt. I realize this might be hard to believe in this day and age.
One person's bolt ladder is another person's free climbing project: NOT BOOTY.
Bolt ladder leading up to the Kompressor on Fitz Roy: BOOTY.
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Can you keep the gear you find at a climbing area or not? That is the question.
Apparently, some people don't understand this important part of climbing culture, so here is a reminder in the form of a case study. BOOTY = Finder may keep it without guilt or return it at their discretion. Loser should not expect gear returned. NOT BOOTY = finder should attempt to find the loser and return his/her gear, a finder's fee or some other form of gratitude is generally appropriate.
Single biner or quickdraw and/or piece of removable protection on a climb that was probably left by someone who bailed because it was too hard/scary. BOOTY.
1-2 cams/nuts on a route, probably by left by someone who bailed or a partner who couldn't clean them or some stoners who just forgot them. BOOTY.
Biner on slings or otherwise in an anchor where it looks like people belay and/or rappel, particularly in the alpine. NOT BOOTY.
Quickdraws or perma-draws on every bolt of a steep sport route where it's difficult to clean/place quickdraws. NOT BOOTY.
Nut or other removable protection in an anchor in the alpine. Probably NOT BOOTY unless the rest of the anchor is super solid.
Gear left in a bucket/bag under a rock/tree near climbs where route development/maintenance is happening. NOT BOOTY.
Someone's cute ass. Definitely BOOTY, but you need consent to grab it and/or take it home.
Feel free to add your own cases and spread the word.
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1 hour ago, ivan said:
does this mean i can quit now?!?
Beowulf said, "Let whoever can win glory before death."
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I feel like we are watching Groundhog Day for Beowulf, who sets out each day to slay the dragon, returns in drunken triumph each night, and in a curious and cruel twist, each morning wakes to learn that the dreaded dragon yet lives, and the epic battle must be fought all over again. The cycle must repeat until our hero finally learns that the dragon is not his true nemesis, the battle is not the real battle, and victory, it seems, is simply the act of getting out of bed each day, drawing in a lungful of clean air, and yet feeling the beating of his heart, a metronome in flesh and bone, counting the seconds to his eventual death.
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The reporting on the report was a non-report. ZZZZzzzzzzzzzz.
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9 hours ago, JasonG said:
And no @Rad I didn't....but it sounds like I should have?
Yep. It tastes like..................................wait for it..............................chicken.
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Nice. Did you bring that chicken home and cook it up? Looks perfect.
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Gorgeous photos! Thanks for sharing.
As beautiful as they are, your shots of the bare ice of our receding glaciers is disturbing.
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Well, there won't be any seasonal snow left, for better or worse. If temps drop low enough there may be fresh snow on the peaks. The river crossing should be easy. The Imperfect Impasse should be fine IF it's dry. I can't comment on Whatcom because the only time I was there it was covered in snow. Should be a lovely time to be out there if you can find a break between storms.
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Sounds pretty boring.
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You can bet the insurance company is investigating.
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Moved to the partners forum because, well, you are looking for partners.
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Moved to the partners forum because, well, you're looking for a partner.
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Wow! A great TR. Your story adds a really nice human dimension to the fantastic visuals, which we all have come to expect from you. So no more pics-and-done TRs, @JasonG, you've set a new standard for yourself! Thanks for putting in the time and effort.
I miss the Pickets. Must get back. Will get back. But the depth of suffering and density of objective hazards give pause. Only true masochists and seasoned alpinists need apply.
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[TR] Sloan Peak - FA: Superalpine (WI3-4, 1000') 02/28/2020
in North Cascades
Posted
Wow! Scary and inspiring all at once.
I'm really glad you're going to be OK. Doing a self-rescue from a serious injury that high on a face is something you should be proud of, and perhaps will be in time. It seems you guys did a lot of things right.
Many years ago, in early fall Alex and I ascended a rock line right around where your red line is. The rock climbing was super fun and solid and moderate, but the line meandered back and forth, ascending from ledge to ledge, so the aesthetics weren't quite so great. The upper half of Sloan is like a multi-tiered wedding cake. I can only imagine how beautiful it would be with winter frosting. I'm glad to see someone get up there.
Great job and thanks for posting!