Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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So I'm in this boat and am wondering if y'all learned anything substantive from that article.
Tweaked my pinky (a2 pulley tear?) about 6 weeks ago. Climbed a day or two and then realized something was wrong. Rested about two weeks, but that didn't do it. Taped. Just a little climbing. Then another week of rest. I still have pain.
I am itching to get back climbing but don't want to permanently harm this digit. I am also concerned that I may be losing mobility in the second joint.
Any suggestions/experience?
Any hand doc recommendations in Seattle?
Thanks
Rad
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I know people who really like the Hyak spot. Haven't been with my kids yet, but we'll get there.
Matt, I also grew up with the sleds with runners. They are way more fun than the other kind. I think they're faster because they work on the same principle as ice skates: put a lot of pressure on a narrow blade to melt ice underneath. Fun! As you get older add alcohol and trespassing and jumps to increase the fun factor.
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Why don't you go climb it and then tell us what you think...
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I have a gps in my drawer that I've never found very useful. Mostly, I rely on topos and terrain features for navigation. A few exceptions are below:
- Used a digital camera as a navigational aid for night travel. Shot pics of route in twilight and referred to them at night. Worked great.
- Once used a compass to stay on course in foggy whiteout on Sulfide Glacier. Once used a compass in confusing alpine meadows and mist in the hills around Juneau. Both times it saved us from trouble.
- Once used an altimeter to help locate a 'trail' in the Pickets. It was quite accurate.
I feel that relying extensively on devices or blindly following topos/beta/directions without engaging common sense and critical thinking can lead to trouble.
Other stories out there?
Happy New Year!
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OR family follows gps into mtns on a "shortcut"
Does anyone have first-hand experience of alpine climbing situations where gps or other devices have given potentially dangerous advice/info.
Please post your snide comments on the newspaper website and spare us from the predictable parroting of previously posted pomposity.
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I'm interested but would need more info before making a purchase.
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Way to go guys, you made that guy in the raft set aside his boilermaking business to come get your sorry asses.
Very lame, CC. You've shown yourself to be equivalent to the "fine them" commentators below popular media articles. As a climber, you should know that sometimes things go awry for experienced folks as well as noobs, and media often distorts the facts to make a good story. Someday you or your buddies may need to be rescued, so maybe you shouldn't be so quick to cast the first stone here.
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Ouch. Glad everyone is ok.
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Read it this morning. The thing I didn't know until today was that the Oregeon locator bill passed the House but was defeated in the Senate because climbers lobbied a key Senator. So instead of 50 pages here, go meet with or write to your state Senators!
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Nice gents.
Wrong, as in the nastiest travelling either of us have ever done in the mountains.Bummer. Thankfully, most of us are wired to forget those things and remember the good parts.
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Dane, what you want could be done, but it would be expensive and the market would be too small to be of interest to companies. OnStar has gps and signaling capacity plus an accelerometer to tell if you've been in an accident. Instead of "Have you been in an accident should I call an ambulance?" It might be, "Did you just safely glissade 1200ft or did you cartwheel off a cliff and starfish at the bottom of a crevassae?"
Dane, your post has some interesting points
A spoon full of sugar helps the medicine go down. You should try it sometime.
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Yes, this thread should go to the bacon forum. I don't own a locator. Most of the climbing I do is on rocks when the weather is nice. Maybe someday I'll get something, but I'm not ready yet.
Mr. Fox, you are acting a lot like Pope in the bolt threads. We know your vote. Let it rest.
Dane, your post has some interesting points, but no one saw where these kids went so not finding them is hardly surprising. Multiple fly-bys revealed nothing.
Finally, if Mother Nature wants to flatten you she will, MLU or no MLU. There are plenty of situations where a strong multi-day storm will prevent anyone from coming to the rescue. In the 2006 Hood nail-biter, it was a solid week before there was a window long enough for rescuers to zip up and inspect the cave where the poor stranded gent took refuge. Even then, avalanche danger was extreme. In the 1996 Into Thin Air disaster, Rob Hall had a radio on the summit of Everest, and everyone knew exactly where he was. No one could go get him due to the altitude and stormy weather.
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I had five goals for this past year:
1 - Bolt and FA three sport routes in the 11a-c range at the crag I've been developing on near Seattle (Done). All three are 25-30m tall with multiple cruxes that are as fun as anything at the LTW at Index, IMHO. Skeptical? PM me and I'll take you out there in the spring!
2 - One good hard (for me) multipitch free route (done). Climbed the Passenger with good friends.
3 - Do an alpine FA (done). Got lucky and did a really great alpine rock FA/FFA on Sloan.
4 - Redpoint my first 12a. Didn't make this one...next year. It's all about motivation and discipline.
5 - Take my kids climbing a few times. (done)
I was also fortunate to:
- Climb my first V5s indoors.
- Climb at several crags I'd never visited before, including climbing routes a buddy recently developed.
- Stayed alive and healthy. Yes, that was a goal too.
- Survive a major remodel where I managed the second half of the job (phew!).
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Dehydration, tight boots, lack of foot mobility all boil down to reduced circulation, which seems to lead to unpleasant outcomes. Thanks for the data points.
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I wonder what a poll would say if everyone had to have one in their car all the time? It certainly would have saved the Kim's lives and saved rescuers valuable time as well.
Instead of NIMBY it's NIMCY (Not in my car, Yo!)
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Sad. RIP.
Do we know if the other two have a stove to melt water.
Fingers and toes all crossed!
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If it makes your wife sleep better and she's paying for it what do you have to lose? When she's happy you're happy, remember?!?
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[img:left]http://www.bigfootencounters.com/files/Walkingwithbigfoot.gif[/img]
I played pool against that guy in a bar in Cle Elum...decided to let him win.
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I'd say Grand Wall, but plenty of others will choose that. So instead I'll plug a route I was fortunate enough to do with Blake this year:
Fire on the Mountain. Sloan SW Face. 5.10+, 8 pitches. A scenic and easy approach via Bedal Creek trailhead leads to a stunning alpine wilderness area. The climbing is really fun, solid, and protectable. The belays are comfy and the views are excellent. Notably, the route finishes at the top of a very prominent glaciated peak with 360 views. Finally, the descent is straightforward and the route should be dry and accessible for a pretty long window each year. For those seeking adventure, this wall holds more fun lines. Go get some! TR with all you need to know to do the route
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I also strongly believe that just doing ANYTHING with some sort of plan and goal in mind will achieve the vast majority of results people want.
(You can't always get what you want) x 3
But if you try sometimes you might find
You get what you need
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You think Adam Ondra is stronger now than Ben Moon was in his prime?
A lot skinnier anyway.
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I've never understood the whole idea that we can somehow claim credit for the actions and results of others (e/g/ we suck/rock because top american sport climbers suck/rock). Does the average spaniard get credit for the rippin spanish sportos? Do we get some credit for Chris Sharma? What if one of our team (Lynn Hill) moves to their side of the pond? Do we no longer get to feel a sense of pride in her accomplishments? Sounds silly to me. I admire many people for the things they do, regardless of whether I consider them part of my team or not. Perhaps this is why I'm not an avid sports fan - I'd rather be out doing it.
Take pride in your own achievements. Push your own limits. Model those whom you admire, but don't pretend to take credit for their successes or failures unless you played some direct role in making them happen.
Veni, Vidi, Ascendi.
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Perhaps the next logical step is just to remove all the grades in the gym, and let each climber figure out for himself or herself whether route A or route B is harder for them.
I've only been in two bouldering comps, but I liked that all problems were new, they had points instead of ratings, and there was no indication of how points related to V grades. Each climb was like a puzzle to solve without annoying preconceptions of this 'should be easy' or 'no way I'll flash'. Add to that the positive energy and encouragement of fellow participants. Now that was fun.
13.a crack climbing video
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
That's another Jens.