Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Why don't get off your ass and do something about it other than bitching on the internet!??
I'm with you, but the irony is that you created this wonderful corner of the internet in which these people spray.
So by DOING something are you suggesting these disgruntled folks actually go out and chop bolts like Ken Nichols? Perhaps if Ken had been content to flame away on the internet then CT and MA crags wouldn't have seen the bolting and un-bolting wars they have.
Maybe we should just all have a puffy jacket group hug and go climbing. Or skip the hug and just climb.
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It's conceivable that the rope could open both gates and come out of the anchor all together.
Perhaps at a cc.com event we can set up a mock TR anchor with my old timer oval biners facing the same direction. I'd give you ten to one odds you can't flick the rope out of them in a hundred tries.
But nobody topropes without locking biners anymore except for a few old timers in mountain boots and wool knickers!Seems like hardly anyone topropes any more anyway.
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Tiblocs rock, but I've never fallen onto one, just used for ascending rope. If you plan to fall a lot on one part of the rope that might be sketchy as the teeth may damage the sheath.
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Didn't mean to offend y'all. Post deleted. Just trying to discourage the ambulance chasers from using this site as a source of gory details. Pretty much everyone who climbs at Little Si falls on every outing while working one route or another, so the opening post sounded like one from a non-climber. Moreover, the fact that your first and only post on cc.com was an accident inquiry also suggested a media troll. Perhaps I was too quick to judge. Don't get turned off cc.com by me. Go to spray and let others do that for you. Better yet, post some TRs and share the stoke.
Anyway, I don't know anything about an accident. Maybe someone who does will decide to post something.
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- post deleted - see below.
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Thanks all. Nice ones. Up late because son won't sleep, so here are some more bouldering vids:
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How about keepin' your ears open to the lovely sounds of nature?
With you on that one. Too much of life is indoors already.
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Nope. I think the guide shows it as a short 10d but it didn't look appealing when I was up there a year ago. So I don't know much. I've never seen a climb at X38 or X32 without top anchors as most were bolted on rappel...so wear your helment and go for it and let us know.
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For me, the top two are David Graham on the FA of Coup De Grace in Dosage IV and Sharma on the FA of Es Pontas in King Lines. They are not on the interweb.
Got more to add to my list?
The intersection of power, precision, focus, passion, and creativity. Awe-inspiring. Great cinematography and music help too.
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Awesome. Thanks for posting. Good luck sending that blank slab.
"Tamara is always happy..." A wonderful personality trait or medication state, whichever the case may be.
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Jon's graph is a good one that I think a lot of people miss: rest and recovery are important because that's when growth/strengthening/repair happens. Too little rest is bad. Too much rest is bad. Find the sweet spot.
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Cool. There's an excellent new 11b (Tea Time) that takes a line just right of an 11c down the hill (11c shares an anchor with the super soft 10c). CC.com was working on developing a route wiki. Not sure where that stands.
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Crevasses are not an issue on that thing, only whether it is hard or not.
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So which hotel(s) have the best value/quality all you can eat gourmet buffet value?
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East facing crags tend to dry fast, but watch the forecast. Winds out of the East funnel in and rip through the areas that are not in the woods, making some annoying conditions. Other crags will be more sheltered from wind but will seep longer.
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Search for TRs on this site and you'll find some good info and people to pm for detailed beta.
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Thanks Jon. Search improvements are greatly appreciated.
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We'd love to have this in the Northwest Mountaineering Journal this year in one form or another. One of us will contact you about that.
Rad
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Very impressive, nicely written, and beautiful photos!
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Kay,
Many on this site view TRs as the best content on cc.com. A number of TR posters have gotten tired of the endless spray that clogs the arteries here, and several have stopped posting their cool climbing stories. So if someone like you makes a post that threatens to eliminate another chunk of TRs, it should not be surprising that many people take offense. Without TRs this site would be just another trash talk heap on the interweb. If talking trash about TRs is your thing then find one of those other sites or move to spray.
Thanks and have a lovely day.
Rad
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hey at least people aren't posting trip reports of Tiger Mountain or Mt. Si everyday!
Actually, today I went to Si. It was so SICK! Well, maybe not the big Si cuz we're not ready for that. Just the Little Si. It was still totally SICK, though. Actually, we didn't make it all the way up the trail, we got sidetracked by this SICK cliff. There were some small curly-haired dogs walking on the trail that left little curly dumps on the gravel by the parking lot - SICK! -but they didn't scare us - the dogs or their dumps- cuz we're climbers. Well, mybe not REAL climbers, more like SPORT climbers.
So we warmed up on a reptilian climb. It was SICK. A few bolts next to a crack. But hey, it's sport climbing so what do you want?! We used my pink rope. The anchors look crappy and need to be replaced so someone doesn't lower, fall, bounce on his head on the ledge, and fly into the trees below in a pile of gelatinous gray matter. SICK! Then we went to climb some route named after prana-topped hotties in VW. It was SICK . The route was dry except on the last move to the chains you had to step into a sopping slobbery foothold while pulling an undercling on an overhanging wall. SICK. Clip, clip. Lower.
Meanwhile, a 5.14 climber was warming up on my SICK project. Well, it's not mine, and it's not a project, cuz it's been climbed 1000s of times be4, but it's a project for me cuz I haven't climbed it so I was projecting my proj. And it's SO SICK! It would be my first at that number grade. So I asked the 5.14 climber to hang some qdraws for me, cuz I'll take any help I can get. So I set out on my redpoint attempt - actually pinkpoint because the draws were pre-placed - feeling like Superman. Well, not really super, but at least OK, and more like a sport climber dude than a real MAN, so really just an OK sport climber dude. SICK! I was stressed beacuse my lucky chalkbag was at the gym where I left it on Friday, but I borrowed one so it was ok. So I started up the proj. I made it through the SICK bouldery lower crux, rested on the ledge while my belayer untangled a hairball of rope, barely hung in there through the enduro middle, and snagged a SICK rest on a hold so caked with chalk it looked like a seagull guanofest party. But I chalked more anyway cuz it was my proj I was projecting. Then I slapped up the arete, sketched past the second to last bolt and...fell two moves from the end of the bidness of the route. Not so sick. More sickening. Simply ran out of juice and couldn't crimp the crimpy crimps on the bouldery upper bulging SICK final crux. So I hung like only sportos can and then climbed to the top, undaunted by the fact that the bolts were almost 6 ft apart! SICK! Redpoint still awaits. So that was my day at Mt Si, or at least Little SI, or somewhere up the trail half way to Little Si. SICK!
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I'm working on an article on this topic for the NWMJ this year. If you have comments to share send me a pm or post them. I'm sure they SAR folks are relieved to have solved this mystery.
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p1 Davis Holland is wet/damp much of the year. It's just part of the experience, like the crux move on the Regular route on Fairview in Tuolumne.
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WTF!!^%#&^#$
in Kids
They still ship the bolts I use to the USA. I think it varies by item depending on their deal with the manufacturer.
Gene patenting ruled illegal
in Spray
Posted
OW, I respectfully disagree. The Bayh-Dole Act of 1980 enabled universities and other institutions to take title (own) inventions arising from federally funded research. The result was the genesis of the biotech industry and a flow of technologies from academia to the private sector, with revenues relating to those inventions tracking back to universities and the inventors. This has had a big benefit for Universities, including the UW.
Implicit in your comment is the presumption that we would all be better if ideas went into the public domain. Actually, that's probably not the case in many areas. In short, patents grant a limited term monopoly (ability to exclude others) in exchange for teaching the world how to practice the invention. Without this incentive, companies would never invest the large amounts of money needed to turn cool ideas into working products. Without patents, there would be no new pharmaceuticals and no subsequent generic pharmaceuticals when the patents run out. We could go on and on...laws relating to patenting of inventions go right back to our US Constitution.
See also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayh%E2%80%93Dole_Act