Rad

I'm on iPhone and love GAIA GPS. I don't use even a fraction of the functions, but it's pretty amazing and has proven VERY useful for cross country travel situations. No more taking the wrong gully, ridge, creek, spur trail, logging road, etc etc. No more troubles finding your way to spots where you've dropped a pin.

Biographie/Realization. At least Ondra couldn't do it.

Hidden Dragon at Shangri La Far Side Exit 38. Devious 30m 11c w multiple cruxes.

I also appreciate the humor and contrasting opinions and am certainly not seeking feckless praise or asking anyone to approve our actions. These are important topics for discussion because rock is a precious resource for all to share. It's easy to go through life these days only interacting with people and content that align with your own views. Google, Facebook, and other IT learning systems are designed to enclose each of us in cozy data/content cocoons so they can quietly suck money out of us as spiders suck the life-juice out of flies. I am glad to break out of that w-w-web and hear a wide range of views presented and defended. So thank you for sharing your thoughts and humor. Perhaps we'll cross paths at a pub club at some point. ps. I do not consider myself a route-setter. Mother Nature set the routes long, long ago. We're all just trying to discover, experience, and share them.

Good news: Starbucks will build a chalet at the top of pitch 3, place laminated copies of Freedom of the Hills at every belay station, and install blue LEDs to guide people up and down the route at night. They will launch an APP that allows you to book your route start times from your phone, order your pitch 3 coffee so it's ready when you get there, and have Siri talk you through rappelling at night. Caffeine plus LEDs plus Siri should get everyone down safely. Until these are ready, climbers will be on their own. They should learn and practice multi-pitch anchor transitions, rappelling, and basic mountain safety before attempting this route. A simple mistake in the wrong place at the wrong time can kill you no matter how clever or experienced you are.

Many good points above. I made far too many generalizations, so I'll edit to remove some that really aren't relevant. Yes, there are plenty of great ground up routes. MHC was bolted on rappel. It is not in wilderness. It is not as adventurous as trad routes of similar grade. It absolutely has alpine hazards and some of these, such as climber-induced rockfall, may be exacerbated by being popular.

Very cool Bill. Thanks for sharing. I posted a TR here: Mile High Club TR

Separate thread on MHC and multi-pitch first ascents

This comment seemed very elitist and misguided to me: “Perhaps a mixed line on such a route might have discouraged eager folks with less experience from perhaps getting in over their heads up there.” If this comment comes from genuine concern for the safety of newbie alpine climbers please skip the next paragraph. Implicit in this comment is the idea that sport climbers don't belong in the mountains, they don't deserve to be there, and that the mountains are the exclusive domain of wise, tough men who eat nails for breakfast. Get over yourselves. I, for one, am happy to share the mountains with anyone who wants to be there. The next generation may start in the gym, but they are going to push the envelope in the trad/alpine world. Just look at LeClerc, Caldwell, Lama, Honnold. We all started out as “folks with less experience”. Most of us got ourselves “over our heads” at one point or another. Otherwise we wouldn’t have grown and developed as climbers. Much of our effort on MHC focused on removing loose rock that might have harmed people. I really hope no one gets hurt or dies, but it's possible people will. There is no such thing as complete safety in the mountains. I believe that climbers must be empowered to make their own choices and accept the consequences of their own actions. That's part of what makes climbing so rich. Why should we try to deny people that experience or protect them from it? If this route, in addition to being a ton of fun, can give new climbers a taste of the magic and inspiration of the mountains that would be cool. If it also provides a stepping stone in their path to being able to think for themselves and take responsibility for the safety of themselves, their partners, and other teams around them that's even better.

Some people asked about Mile High Club. Here are a few thoughts on developing rock routes, including MHC. My views have grown out of 25 years of climbing and 10 years of doing first ascents. These opinions are my own. My partners have their own views that may or may not be the same as mine. It is very rare for route developers to share their philosophy or defend their work because it’s easy for armchair quarterbacks to throw anonymous internet stones. Some will probably drive this thread into spray. That’s OK. I’ve got my helmet strapped down tightly. Hopefully others will find something interesting. So here goes: One might consider two questions in evaluating rock climb first ascents: A – What is the type of protection? It could be: 1 - Removable protection (called trad by many); 2 - fixed protection (including bolts and pitons); or 3 – a combination of fixed and removable protection (mixed). B – Was the first ascent ground-up or top-down? This seems binary, but it’s not always that simple. By multiplying these we might define six types of rock routes. Each has pros and cons. We have all types in Washington, and often several different types within one climbing area (e.g. Darrington, Index, X38, WA Pass, Leavenworth). I’ve done five types of first ascents. Each was the result of thoughtful consideration for the route itself, the style of the area, the views of my partners, and other factors. Ironically, the style that people respect the most, ground-up trad, is actually the easiest to do. Walk up to a wall, find a line, climb and protect as you go up, end at the top, walk away. Often there is very little cleaning done along the way. When you go ground-up you tend to take the path of least resistance, and because you don’t know what’s above you may wander around to link good climbing sections. You may miss the best climbing altogether. Bolts placed ground-up are often put in places that don’t make sense for parties that follow. They are typically placed from a good stance, which can mean a hook or a ledge or other feature. In a number of cases, bolts on ground-up routes occur from a rest stance AFTER the hard moves. Bolts may be placed in locations that provide sparse and/or poor protection for subsequent climbers. Placing pitons doesn't make sense to me. They protect the first ascensionist and those who follow for a few years, perhaps decades, but they damage the rock as much or more than bolts and degrade over time until they are eventually useless. Trad protection is viewed by some as morally superior to bolts when cracks or other protectable features are available. To a large extent I agree. On certain cliffs, however, including the Mile High buttress, cracks are mainly found behind blocks in varying states of attachment to the wall. A lead fall on a cam places far more outward force on a block than one can generate with a hammer or short crowbar, so blocks that seem safe during route development could be levered off the wall and injure or kill the climber and/or belayer and/or cut the team’s rope if a cam is placed behind them. Experienced leaders may spot such hazards and avoid them, but not everyone is that savvy. Mile High Club has a few sections that could be protected by removable gear by an experienced leader. Other sections that look like protectable cracks are behind blocks of varying size that couldn’t be easily pried off using a hammer but might explode off the wall if a leader placed a cam behind them and fell on it. We could have developed a mixed route with mostly bolts and a few trad placements. I advocated that if the vast majority of the route was going to need bolts to be safely climbed AND an inexperienced leader with a trad rack might place cams in spots that would endanger themselves and others, as noted above, then bolting the whole thing would be the best way to go. That’s what we did. If you don’t like the bolts don’t clip them. My goals for Mile High Club were: #1 – Develop an outstanding route that follows the best quality climbing to the Mile High Summit. #2 – Make the route safe for climbers who follow us, including those who are new to alpine climbing. #3 – Open a route that people will climb and enjoy for decades to come. Mile High Club has seen about ten repeats in the past ten days. Feedback from those who’ve climbed the route has been positive (feel free to PM constructive criticism). If you don’t want to climb a bolted alpine route that could attract fledgling mountain rock climbers I suggest you go climb Fire on the Mountain on Sloan that Blake and I put up in 2009. It’s an amazing 5.10+ trad ground-up alpine rock route to an outstanding peak. You’re very unlikely to have to wait in line because it’s only seen a handful of ascents in the past 6 years. Why? Perhaps because it’s a 5.10+ trad alpine rock route several hours away from a trailhead that’s not super close. At the end of the day, route development is not a consensus activity. It is done by highly motivated individuals or teams that have passion and vision and are willing to invest huge amounts of time, work, and money to create something for others. We hope you enjoy the route. Rad

One data point. http://www.vox.com/2015/10/1/9437187/obama-guns-terrorism-deaths It does not delve into causes. Let's suppose you could solve gun deaths by either revamping gun laws or making a very large investment in mental health care. Which would take effect faster? Which would cost less? Which would be easier to implement? Banning confederate flags? Really? Who thinks that's going to do anything? The conservatives don't have a logical leg to stand on here, but it doesn't seem to matter. And that is deeply disturbing to me.

I am a fan of data-driven, science based approaches. Look forward to seeing the work you produce.

What a bullshit approach.... Calling bullshit on your bullshit. The data are VERY clear. People in the US have easy access to guns and they shoot people. You don't hear of mass stranglings or mass knifings. Control guns and the problem goes away. Any idiot can see that. Moreover, the media gives dead killers huge amounts of attention so future would-be gunmen see fame and glory through infamy as their end. And the media makes money, the gun companies make money. Yes, changing gun laws is the obvious solution. If you've figured out a way to do that I'd love to hear it. One very simple way to act is to not let the media monetize these tragedies. Avert your electronic gaze. If killers get no attention the prospect of internet fame will be removed as a lure to would be killers. Maybe you have better ideas.

Don't give the media coverage your eyeball hours or clicks Don't click on anything that gives extra attention to the shooter. Don't fan the flames.

As I mentioned above, I'll write up more on this route in a separate thread. Feel free to express your opinions there. Thank you for keeping this thread clear of bolting debates.

You cannot rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope unless you use some variation of tag line techniques. Basically, you tie slings or cord on one end of the rope (in this case you'd need >10 meters worth), tie a knot in the rope at the new mid-point (35 meters if you've added 10 meters of slings/tagline to a 60 m rope). Wedge the knot against the anchor rings (all Fixe ring anchors on this route). Clip the knot to the other strand so you don't somehow pull the knot through the anchor. Clip your rap device onto the full length rope segment (weight to test BEFORE unclipping from the anchor) .Rap on a single strand of rope on the long rope end (not the tagline end)(tie a knot so you don't go off the end accidentally). Rap. Clip into the next anchor. Pull the tag line/sling end to retrieve your rope. Easy. But if you screw it up you could die. You should NOT try it for the first time 6 pitches up an alpine route. Go get it wired in a safe setting and find a better source of information than me. This is a useful trick to have in your toolkit anyway. Or just borrow a 70 meter rope.

Two simple cautionary comments based on our experience and what I've heard: 1 - Top rappel (p7). If you try to rap straight to the p6 anchor from the summit anchor you set yourself up for a short pendulum across the lower face that may swing you into a flake. Instead, rap down to the obvious flake climber's right of the belay, lower yourself along it, then walk left to the belay. Don't un-rope until you're connected to the anchor. 2 - Bottom rappel (p1). The ledge at the start/bottom of the route is still several hundred feet above the talus and there are some exposed spots near the base of the route. It might be wise to walk back to the starting bolt while still on rappel. You can pull the rope from the starting bolt position. Be safe. Have fun.

Sorry to hear that. I'll send a pm about your rope and injury. Yes, that gully is a bad place to be if people are knocking rocks off up high. We've put in a lot of work to remove most loose rock where it's likely to come off, and the gully scramble is short (3-5 minutes max). But there is some danger and helmets and speed in the gully are recommended.

How did you get the route overlay shot? Friend w drone? Google earth? telephoto from Sperry?

I will respond by writing a separate TR on the story of the FA. Actually, there are at least two good stories. So save your style questions and comments for that thread. You'll have to wait a bit, though, because I have work to do, dishes to wash, and will be taking my 7yo to Camp Orkila this weekend. Meanwhile, the weather is looking good for repeats this weekend. The summit register is ready for your entries. And remember, the first rule of Mile High Club is you don't give away the secret. The second rule of Mile High Club is.....YOU DON'T GIVE AWAY THE SECRET.

Think of it as old school 5.9 and you'll be fine. Besides, you can always french free if needed.

Trip: Mile High Club - a new alpine rock route near Vesper, Sperry and Morningstar Peaks. 7 pitches, 5.10a. Date: 9/12/2015 Trip Report: Mile High Club is a new alpine rock route that Darin and I put up this year. We hope you will climb it and enjoy it. The purpose of this TR is to provide information on how to find and climb the route. First ascent stories can come later. We believe this route has all the ingredients of a modern classic: excellent climbing, solid rock, a striking feature and summit, grand alpine views, and a quick and easy approach and descent. The route ascends the southwest-facing buttress of a striking 5280 foot sub-summit of Morning Star Peak. The buttress is a very prominent feature on the east side of Headlee Basin, and it dominates the view from Headlee Pass. The rock, part of the Swauk formation, is metamorphosed sandstone, littered with positive holds, and devoid of continuous cracks. Mile High Club offers seven pitches of excellent face climbing and exposure on the crest of the buttress. Its low elevation and southwest exposure should give it a long season compared with other alpine rock routes. Although this route is fully bolted, climbers must be prepared to handle steep snow in spring, multiple rappels on the descent, and some loose rock on ledges. Care should be taken to avoid knocking rocks off the right side of the route as these will shoot down the approach gully. For this reason, climbers are advised to wear helmets for the short scramble in the approach gully and avoid lingering there. Hikers on the Sunrise Mine trail can hear and see climbers on the route. They could misinterpret shouts among climbers as calls for help and might even activate an un-necessary rescue. This is exactly what happened to the first ascensionists, who were greeted at the base of the route by a hovering helicopter with a spotlight and at the trailhead by a full search and rescue operation. Season: May through October. Approach: ~2 hours, 2100 feet elevation gain. Drive about 28 miles east on the Mountain Loop Highway, turn right on FR 4065 (1 mile past the Dickerman trailhead), and follow it about two miles to the Sunrise Mine trailhead. NW Forest Service pass required. Follow the Sunrise Mine trail approximately two and a half miles to the last major switchback (~4300 foot elevation) before the trail begins zig zagging up to Headlee Pass. Leave the trail and begin a surprisingly easy traverse northeast across talus toward the Mile High buttress. Pass just above a large flat-topped boulder near the first set of trees. Follow a natural passage through the small stand of trees to a second open talus field. Continue across open heather and talus, cross a strip of trees near a rocky bluff, and ascend to the obvious red gully right of the Mile High Buttress. A convenient seep just before the Mile High gully provides water through mid-season and for a few days after rain. Scramble up and left on rubble-strewn ledges to a lone fir tree. Pass the tree on a ledge to a single belay bolt at the beginning of the route. Route: Pitch 1: Hero climbing up and left on steep jugs leads to a beautiful face and arête. 115 feet, 5.10a. Pitch 2: Continue up the featured face to a belay on the crest. 70 feet, 5.9. Pitch 3: Cross a large ledge and ascend a 30 foot headwall with some cracks and good holds. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next headwall. Note that an intermediate anchor about 15 feet right of the climbing line and 10 feet above the lip of the lower headwall is used on the descent. 150 feet, 5.9. Pitch 4: Step right and climb a clean face to the base of a dihedral. 70 feet, 5.10a. Pitch 5: Climb the stunning dihedral and exit up and right to an airy belay. 80 feet, 5.10a. Pitch 6: Head up the lower arête, balance on top of a large flake, and climb a beautiful face to a spectacular arête. 115 feet, 5.10a. Pitch 7: Make a tricky move or two on a vertical face, cross ledges to the final headwall, and follow a clean ramp to the summit. 100 feet, 5.8 Summit: According to USGS maps, the peak is 5280 feet above sea level. This inspired the route’s name. There is a summit register with a secret. Please do not post photographs online or otherwise spill the beans. The idea is that only those who have visited the summit and become members of the Mile High Club will know its secret. Descent: Rappel the route using the pitch 3 intermediate anchor. Avoid a pendulum on the Pitch 7 rap by lowering down to the large flake before walking left to the belay. The starting ledge is several hundred feet above the ground and rather exposed. Climbers might want to traverse back to the starting bolt before unroping. It's possible to pull the rope on the final rappel from that position. Gear: One 70 meter rope, 12 quick draws, and a few shoulder length slings. First Ascent: Darin Berdinka and Rad Roberts, September, 2015. View from the point where you depart the Sunrise Mine Trail. The 5280 peak is on the left. View of the approach from the route. The trail is in the sun in the upper right. The MHC gully is in the lower left of the frame. Route overlay Another route overlay The start of Pitch 1 The top of Pitch 1 Pitch 2 Pitch 3 About to head onto moderate terrain on Pitch 3. Pitch 4 Start of Pitch 5 Nearing the top of Pitch 5 Approaching the arete on Pitch 6 Arete on Pitch 6 Arete on Pitch 6 Pitch 7 just below the Mile High summit On the summit at sunset with Sperry and Big Four in the background. A taste of the alpine ambience: Mile High Club is the right profile in this photo taken from the road. “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.” - John Muir.

Boom indeed! I've been thinking the river would be a good way to go on a low snow year. Knowing what you know now, would you still walk the river or try to find that trail?

So would subsequent parties need pins? What's the pro like? R? PG? X? G?