climbaround

Thanks for the great TR and excellent pictures - just wish some of your scenics were larger! Looks like a great route on nice rock.

Climb: Magic Mt.-NE Couloir Ski Descent Date of Climb: 5/14/2006 Trip Report: Great day in the mountains. See Turns All Year for a full TR. I'll post a link to a web page with more photos when it is up. North Face of Magic, NE Couloir on right. Climb to Mixup Arm Skiing down to the pass. Skiing the couloir, Sahale in background. Gear Notes: Crampons, axe, whipit Approach Notes: Last few hundred feet were icy on climb to pass (at 5 am).

Incredible climb/ski, great TR, and excellent pics to boot. I was gripping my mouse hard reading about the ski-crampon exchange. Goodunonya

2003 version. Like new - used a few days in the Tetons. Light and easy hikers, perfect for long summer hike-scrambles. Size 44 - fits my 10.5 feet. $165. E mail: jim.dockery@verizon.net

Great shots! Thanks.

Good eye Klenke, I think you're right. Here is a black & white crop of the top, I think you can just make out the rope. I was checking out the face off and on much of the day, hoping to see climbers, but never realized they were on it. climbers in spindrift Both times I've climbed it the snow turned tricky (powdery or crusted over sugar) up near the top - always the crux for me. As Mat says the descent is also long and difficult - the back side is steep and takes care, then you have to get back down the north bowl, I've always ended up raping by headlamp through the cliffy trees to the west. Quite a relief to be back on flat ground.

I was up there yesterday also, couldn't believe how many SAR folks turned up. I wondered what they were all going to do, even in the event of a rescue. I doubt if many would be able to climb up to help in any event. Here is a very high res. shot of the face yesterday - looked to be in prime condition. I would like to hear a full report on the climb, and rescue effort, glad all is well. Here is a high resolution shot I got of the face yesterday. Big 4 2/19/06

I agree with John about the run up from 14 (given that you have the fitness, experience, and smarts to turn around quick if need be). Last summer my partner and I did that almost by accident when we continued up from an acclimatization day to 17 because we felt great and the weather was perfect (luck here is the key to any Denali climb). We were prepping for a ski of the orient which conditions ended up ruling out. John’s gear list sounds good also - we added light bivy sacks. Many people we met seemed to get hammered by the load carry to 17, and the harsh conditions staying there. IMO a warm comfy bag is worth the weight and expense - R&R is another key to success and you will spend a lot of time in the thing. I used a Marmot Col and loved it.

I agree with Matt that it won't hurt anything getting out in the B.C. for some fun and scenery - will also show you how much work you've got to do back at the area. The sad truth is that this game is expensive if you want to get it down. My advice would be to shell out the bucks for some good lessons - 2 or 3 should do it. That made all the difference for me - I had been skiing for a few years by the time I was in junior high, but had plateaued at an intermediate/advanced level (for the day). I was then lucky to have a very strict Austrian instructor. All the other kids in the class dropped out because they didn’t like him, leaving just a buddy and I who had paid with our own paper route money and persevered. He hammered the importance of pole plants (I didn't understand what difference that would make) for weeks until we finally got it and practiced enough to make a difference. Wish I could thank him now for all the years of great skiing he gave me! I also agree that BC takes it to another level. When I learned to tele I was capable of doing most any run at Snowbird without a fall on alpine gear, but it took 3 years of every weekend in the BC with friends at my own level to get to a point I felt competent. Modern rando gear certainly accelerates the process, but it still takes time, effort, and $. Of course the process is great fun also.

I didn't read the above responses as elitist - just a rational response to a terrible tragedy that many of us have imagined, or come close to. I'm afraid that equipment, and other decisions, can make a difference as was pointed out, so boarders have to be even more careful. I too found myself upside down in a deep well on an awesome powder day in the Stevens Pass backcountry some years ago when my goggles fogged up so much I couldn't see (a lesson learned and not repeated). My partners were waiting hundreds of feet below me and would have had a hell of a time finding me even if they climbed back up (which would have taken them a long time). If it wasn't for my ski poles and releasable rando bindings I doubt I could have extricated myself - even then it was a major effort to clear the snow away so I could breath and see what to do, get my safety straps undone (glad I did daily sit-ups), skis off (very awkward after the first one is released), then climb out of the damn thing and get my skis back on in chest deep snow. Scared the #$%^& out of me! I was a bit miffed that my partners were pissed off that they got cold waiting so long (they had never had a similar experience). While avy danger is more obvious and discussed, tree wells can obviously be just as deadly, even in a controlled area. Be careful out there is what we are all saying.

Not much snow/ice left this year. Someone should go climb the tower before it falls down. See photo gallery some shots on 9/1/05

Nice pictures - what camera are you using?

Looking for partners to ski Messner, or Orient, this June. Train in Cascades this winter/spring together.

Sounds like a fun climb. Did you fix the pins?

New web page with ski/boarding photos: Skiing Adams SW Chutes

The ubb code didn't seem to work the 1st try, so here I go again. Bike Page

$1200 new, $500 slightly used. A bit too big for my 5'1" wife. See this page on Craig's list for pics and description:

Pete is right on all counts (esp. doing it in a day from Cold Springs). The Chutes add about 3 miles of traversing/slightly climbing trail (which feels tough on a hot afternoon) but it's well worth it. Snow in the chutes stays smooth longer than the S ridge, and is steeper, for one of the longest continuous runs in the state - a classic! Go get it next week - it was in good shape a week ago when we did it.

Climb: Hood and Adams-Wyeast on Hood, SW chute on Adams Date of Climb: 7/1/2004 Trip Report: Skied the Wyeast rt. on Hood June 29th. Snow on upper face was unconsolidated and mushy - a bit tough for the skier, fun for the boarder. S.W. Chute on Adams July 1st was excellent. Climbed a perfect boot track up the S. spur, cool temps made for pleasant climb, but kept snow a bit too firm, so we hung at the false summit for a while, then took in the view from the top for another hour (my first time up without another party on or near the summit). The chute had corned up nicely about 12:30. Snow goes to within a few hundred feet of the crest trail. Large areas of the chutes were slightly runneled from sluffs, but smooth snow was available at the sides. S. ridge was a bit more bumpy, but still looking good. Go get it while it lasts! Gear Notes: Didn't need crampons or axe, boot track was perfect.

Climb: Squire Creek Pass-trail Date of Climb: 3/21/2004 Trip Report: Tried to hike to Squire Creek Pass yesterday, got stopped by occasional thigh deep postholing just below the pass. Let's get a work party on climber's trail up to Squire Creek Wall - what a beautiful place! Squire Creek Wall East Face Three Fingers Gear Notes: Shorts & light hiking boots - shoulda had waterproof boots, pants, high gaitors if I wanted to hit the pass. Approach Notes: Few inches of snow started a couple miles up the road, but most should melt out until half way up the switchbacks where it thickens.

Hit the backside of the area yesterday - it was about as good as it got on the best day last year! Cold dry powder on a firm base, didn't hit any rocks, just a few bush branches tried to trip me up. Get out there today before the lifts open.

Check out a web page I just posted for some pics from the Torment-Forbidden traverse in August. We had to approach via Torment Basin because there were no permits left for Boston - much harder, esp. return to camp at the end of the day. A great long day in the mountains - good rock, cool ice, spectacular views. http://climbingaround.net/N.America/WA/Torment-Forbidden/Pat03.html

I am driving a van to the Tetons on the 17th or 18th and have room for 2 climbers and gear, e-mail me if you are interested. I will be leaving a couple weeks later to meet my wife at Devil's Tower, so won't be offering a ride back.