needtoclimb

I have the 16th and 17th off. Looking to do an alpine route, be it easy rock, scrambling or just hiking. Give me a shout. Kevin

I am looking at doing this route in Mid June and am looking for beta from people who have climbed it. Is the glacier heavily crevassed...meaning is a rope needed on it? Also, any info on roads to Cold Springs or the trailhead in the Yakima Reservation would be much appreciated.

I am looking at hiking the Mazama glacier route mid June, and would like to take the road to Bird Creek meadows instead of Cold Springs. Anyone have any beta on the roads to these two spots?

Looks like rain in Seattle, but sunny skies on the other side. I have tue and wed off and am looking to get out and climb. Someone give me a shout, or else I will have to settle for a wet hike. Would much rather climb. Kevin

I am confused at your logic. Isn't the reason car prowls are so prevelant at trailheads is because the theives know the people are away from their cars for an extened period of time? How would you carrying a gun while four miles away from your car deter any thieves?

check your pm's.

I have parked and climbed out there about 50 times, and have never recieved a ticket. But then again, I am out mostly during the week and try to avoid weekends. I have never figured out where to by a permit either, so I just hadn't bothered.

Sorry to hear about your stuff Brian. That blows. As for Frikadeller stating "Some buddies of mine that have also been victims have considered staking out the parking lot to catch these people red handed, but nothing ever materialized. There is a gate on the road, we where just going to shut and lock the gate if we saw someone break into a car and then call the Sheriff.." I just want to throw in a reality check. Sounds great, until you realize the Sheriff won't be there for twenty minues while the guys you locked in beat the tar out of you. At some trail heads I feel safer leaving all my extra stuff stashed in the woods than in my car. And just to leave some advice, why do you think the thieves keep breaking into cars at trailheads? Becuase there is booty in the car. If the thieves drove out there a dozen times and each time found every car empty, they would find a new target. But next time you go to trailhead take a casual glance into the cars; ipods on the seats, cell phones on the dash, Oakley sunglasses, tons of back packs containing who knows what goodies, etc. You get the point.

Blake is my hero. He pulled my rope and carried it out. He's the man.

I went up and climbed Dreamer on Monday, Sept 25t, and rapped down the Urban Bypass route. We did the last rap as a single rope rap, and once down I packed up my gear, ate a sandwich, and headed down the trail without ever pulling the rope. So, it should be still hanging there, unless some kind soul pulled it in the last couple of days. Anyone know of anyone who found a booty rope on Dreamer this week?

I left my rope hanging off the last rappell station of Urban Bypass on Dreamer at Darrington on Monday, 09-28-06. Did anyone happen to retrieve it?

I'm heading over to Leavenworth this weekend and camping with my brother and his two kids, ages 3 and 5. I would like to get them on the rock a little and see if they enjoy it. Anyone have a small kids harness I can rent/borrow for the weekend?

"Frenchman Coulee" by Jim Yoder is the best book I've seen for Vantage.

That's where the rock was. A bypass road was made around the tree, but the rock was sticking out of the bypass, rendering it unbypassable. I went up with the intention of cutting up the tree, but found it was easier to move the rock and fill in the hole instead. So now you can drive around the tree easily with a 4x4, and I bet a car can make it if driven carefully.

Two weeks ago when I climbed Dreamer, I was stopped about 1.5 miles from the end of the road because of a huge freaking rock in the rock that had claimed at least one oil pan (evident from the huge puddle of oil on the rock.) The extra walk in wasn't bad, but I did not enjoy the extra mileage out after full day on Dreamer. So today my girlfriend and I went up and dug out the huge rock and leaveled that part of the road. We also did some road maintenance a little farther up. Now I can drive my Dodge Dakota 4x4 all the way to where the road ends at the clearcut section.

Is it possible to rap the route, and do I need two ropes or will one suffice?

Saw that you were looking for partners this weed mid week. You available for something August 7-8?

I lead solid 5.9 and am open for anything. One day, two days, alpine or an aid climb. Town Crier, Prusik Peak, Leavenworth, Wa Pass or anything else rocky. Give me a shout.

Any recommendations for a moderate 1 day aid route at Squamish?

I have this Friday off and my girlfriend wants to go climb something with me. I want to take advantage of the long days and go hit something away from the popular cragging areas. She leads low fifth class, and can follow up to a 5.8. So, basically I am looking for suggestions for an all day alpine climb in the 5.2-5.8 range. We have already done: Mt. Thompson The Tooth Ingalls peak Blueberry route of Exfoliation Dome. Any ideas?

I didn't see any wallets, but with so much stuff in the cars, its not hard to presume there could be wallets, credit card statements, bank statements or checkbooks inside. If someone is willing to leave a cell phone in plain sight, is it too hard to imagine his wallet might be in the glove box?

I went to Exit 38 today, and all I can say is "Come on people, use some common sense!!" Out of curiosity, I looked through the windows of the four cars parked next to me. This is what I saw with a quick glance. Car 1: Two pairs of climbing shoes, a handfull of biners and some pro. Car 2: A brand new sleeping bag, tons of paperwork, towels covering large "intersting" items, and a briefcase. Car 3: More paperwork, more towels and clothing, and a new rope on the rear seat. Several helmets, and so much stuff in the car that who knows what treasures might be found. Car 4: A cell phone and nice pair of sunglasses on the console. Jeesh, one would think that with these breakins, people would not advertise "hit my car, I have lots of stuff in it!" Not that I mind though. When one looks into mine, they see two old starbucks cups and yesterdays newspaper. If we keep are cars clean so there is nothing to steal, the thieves will move on to better targets.

Ok, shall I edit it to 'biner? Nah, I'll leave it. Everyone is entitled to one spelling mistake. As for 10 feet; a lot of rope stretch and a belayer who was giving me quit a bit of slack. She caught me though, and I told her to keep me loose as last time I flew up this section and wanted the slack so I wouldn't get hung up. I just have to remember "when falling, do not grab at the rock."

I went out to Index today with my girlfriend with the plan to climb the GM route. I led the first couple of pitches last week without a problem. I'm leading the first pitch fat dumb and happy, and reach the fixed piton just above the rap bolts. I clipped the piton and start to move past it. Just as my waist reached the piton, my foot slipped and I took about a 10 foot slider down the slab. I try to grab onto the rock with my left hand and opened up three flappers right along the finger nail. Needless to say, I wasn't able to complete the route now that my left hand was torn up, so I left a leave-it locking beaner on the piton and lowered off. Now for the whole point of this story. The beaner is one that I dropped a while back. I painted it red and have used it as a gear beaner. No visible damage to it, but I wouldn't trust it to take a big lead fall on. So if you clean this red beaner off the route, either toss it or know that it shouldn't be used for lead.

I want to hit a Yosemite big wall either this fall or in the spring, and am looking for a partner to train with. I lead solid 5.9 trad and sport, and just now breaking into the 5.10 range. I have been climbing for ten years off and on and know my ropework. I just started aiding about a year ago, and have a dozen aid pitches under my belt. I just did the first 5 pitches of town crier last week (bailed on the 5th due to the extreme heat.) Am looking for a partner equal to or better than me. So, if you want to hit a big wall, give me a shout. Kevin