skyclimb

That is the funniest TR I have ever seen, and sums up a lot of China perfectly, well done!

Hey Ian, I don't have a lot of experience with rime, but I have climbed on it when it would support body weight, like stemming between feathers, and obviously this is the most positive. Most of the time it won't support shit. The best method I have found in this case is to punch through the outer layer into the sugar under the rime, push my tools in horizontally grabbing the tool by the head, and rotate the shaft downward using my wrist. Then it is a manteling motion to make vertical gain. This obviously becomes difficult when steeper then 80 degrees, and can be off balance, so serious trenching may be required. For gear, not much works more than psychologically, but you can chop threads, scratch down to the rock if the rime isn't thick, or use screws in the few spots this may form. Creativity, and hard thickheaded work seem to be your best friend on this kind of climbing. These same techniques also work for flutings. Good luck with round 2 on your climb!

Nice TR! You are a good writer, all of the trip reports you do are very intriguing. Keep up the good work out there adventuring!

Hey, Its been a while good to see you traveling! There is a free public climbing wall on the river in downtown seoul, with easy access via one of the city rail lines. It has been a while since I was there, so can't comment on its exact location, but it was good for a outdoor climbing wall. I know you probably don't have time, but a hour or two from the city is a lot of really good limestone in and around Wan Ju Some of the cleanest granite I have ever climbed on is in Sorak San national park, with a few hour approaches through monestaries in the mountains up to the 3-5 pitch white granite spires...mythical. Hope this helps, have a great trip!

There is granite in that area, but you will be taking out near the town of Riggins, and the real quality climbing there is limestone...It is excellent. The granite in that area is grainy/oatmeally as shit...IMHO...I lived there for the last 4 years and climbed a lot of the granite from Boise all the way up the crest to north of Mccall and Riggins. The Granite on the river is also pretty chossy, and wasn't even worth the climbing shoes I brought for bouldering. Obviously everyone has they're own opinion, many people rave about the "Secret" needles area, but I thought that place was sucky...probably a reason it is "secret". You could also go a bit early and hit the Sawtooths on the way to do the car shuttle. Have a great trip that river is amazing.

Sweet looking route Wayne, way to keep after it year after year! Sticky, cool looking ice to boot. Cheers

The North Face of Mt. Cramer was one of the most memorable climbs I have done in the PNW. The quality, difficulty, and adventure where very high. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/828111/TR_Sawtooths_Mt_Cramer_North_F#Post828111

Nice work. I used to work with a guy at Entreprise who got the FFA of this route. He said the first few pitches were scary as all hell, but the upper pitches were all worth it. Most people rap into the hand crack and send from there... good on ya for the adventure, smith is full of them.

Hell yeah, that is sweet set of ticks in a short amount of time.

I had the opportunity to look this book over recently, and it is a pretty amazing piece of work. It is very useful for rehabing injuries, or strenthening specific muscles for climbing, along with useful tricks of the trade. One thing you should add in the next edition Layton, is the management of the "Bivy Kit", and keeping sleeping pills seperated from pain killers....LOL

WOW! Amazing photos and climb, thanks for the stoke. That looks like one hellova a fun day. Amazing looking setting there too with the broken up glaciers and such. How long are you there for? Cheers

Bad ass photos and video Ian!!! Nice work epicing with the family, good to see things haven't changed in the last few years

That sounds like a blast! Stout to solo that much ground in a day. I got lost in the Tokatie drainage area a few years trying to descend that way, and found the same thing you did. I ended up bivying in the snow creek drainage when i finally made it through those damn house sized boulders. Keep tearing it up!

There is a good topo at the Elephants Perch in ketchum, and they are very helpful to talk with. There is a good two bolt anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch(crux), which is useful since the stance is kinda shitty, and the rock is a little questionable at the top there. All the rest of the belay stances have good cracks in sound rock.

Thanks a bunch for the TR and sweet pics, that route will definatly be on the list!