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Everything posted by marcus

  1. [TR] Snoqalamnie Mtn- NY Gully 2/12/2006

    If you wanna bring one screw...there's a place to put it. More of a Scottish affair(frozen turf, scrappy little corners) with some slab/snow climbing down low. Small gear mostly, with something up to 3".
  2. [TR] Hood- Ski Circumnav 2/9/2006

    Nice photos Nick...but where are the sexy pics of you?
  3. [TR] Snoqalamnie Mtn- NY Gully 2/12/2006

    Here's some other pics:
  4. BD Firstlight tent in wind

    I'd recommend shoring up, at least seam-gripping, the seams around the guyline attatchment points. Otherwise the stitching can begin to separate under wind stress over time. Beyond that, just be careful setting it up - that's when you'll trash it!
  5. Gorge Ice

    Well...this has become one of the most bloated threads of all time - a testament I guess to the awesome spell we've had! But just in case its still used to post climbs, conditions, etc.: Climbed two lines today approx. 1.1mi east of Angel's Rest parking TH. Dunno of any previous FA info, never seen 'em before so we call 'em: "Shark Attack", a 35m stellar WI4 with a grand turfing topout; and "Dog House"(?) is a fat 40m WI3 flow right next door. You can see 'em from the road, just hike 30min right up the drainage. It's warming up...clock's ticking!
  6. Gorge Ice

    Marcus D and friend did it last friday, its in this thread. Climbed it with HalBurton...he climbed like a hero on some pretty tricky stuff. By the way: effin' awesome job the other day Wayne!
  7. Gorge Ice

    Climbed Ainsworth yesterday...awesome route. Did 3 60m pitches with simuling, would also work as 4-5p. Very long, techy last pitch(recommend 70m ropes if you don't wanna simul WI4). 60m v-threads the whole way now with rap sling on tree, climber's left at top. Get on it - routes like this in our backyard...hell yeah! Got yer note Wayne - but I had to drive straight to work afterwards. Have fun!
  8. another aid question

    With so many nailing routes going clean now using the wide arsenal of modern trickery, your time might be better spent growing your skill set in a different direction. Competent use of cam hooks, HBs, Aliens(including offsets, rad for pin scars),Zeros, Lowe Balls, Tri-cams, hand-placed sawed-off pins, and more aggressive hooking can enable you to forgo the hammer in most instances. Learning these now standard tricks of the trade will let you move faster - even in those spots where you really might have to occasionally pound one in. And it'll make those boring old 'trade routes' far more engaging!
  9. Gorge Ice

    Hiked to base of Ainsworth Left today - dropping pretty substantial debris. Mid-30s at car, but felt much warmer higher up. Drove further up the Gorge to a colder pocket where my partner styled a 50m line in WI4 condition out of the Starvation lot for his warm-up lead of the season. 40F with much visible route degradation since yesterday on the drive back... Starvation: no Cabin Creek: no Lancaster: no
  10. Aside from the good-time runouts...Mike failed to note that the real scariest part of trip was that we watched "The Weatherman"! AAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!
  11. [TR] Mt Hood- NF 11/19/2005

    Nice job, Dan! Who're ya climbing with these days?
  12. Have any of you eastsiders been out to Strawberry Lake recently? Road conditions? Route conditions??
  13. Strawberry Lake Ice Conditions?

    Thanks for the assist!
  14. Strawberry Lake Ice Conditions?

  15. Avi conditions on N.Face hood

    Up on Cloudcap Tuesday...about 18-24" of recent snow under a crust from Saturday. Unfortunately the crust is insulating the lower snowpack, slowing its consolidation. At the very least, bring floatation and a lot of patience...use your judgment. However, ridge routes on the West side are building up some good rime right now...
  16. [TR] Mt. Hood- Norht Face Couloir 10/17/2005

    As of 11/8, all Cloudcap gates are still open - 4wd recommended. Today I reached the upper gate(ca. 4700'), but saw a couple other rigs get stranded. Major windfall on the road a couple of hundred yards past upper gate, plus significantly more snow higher... Hiked up to Cloudcap TH: A couple of feet of powder under a crust from Sat pm. Floatation would be helpful above 5500'... Looks like the lower Cooper Spur ice is in decent shape
  17. podClimber

    Has anyone checked out podClimber? Its a podcast show produced out of Bend. Interviews, spray, etc. I found the website on rockclimbing.com(podClimber.com) but have had some trouble downloading it...
  18. podClimber

    Ouch! Maybe I should consider myself fortunate that I couldn't get it. However, I saw some interviews(Steve House, et.al.) that looked interesting...
  19. Best all-around ice tool????

    For one tool in the mountains, gotta be the Co-brah. Does everything decently. Sensitive enough for scratchy mixed, nice balance, carbon fiber dampening. However, beware the dreaded 'cobra pinky' until you get your swing dialed... Unfortunately, Cobras don't have an effective leashless mod and you don't wanna drill that carbon fiber. So if you're going leashless, consider BDs Vipers, the Taakoon or the Quark: all leashless-capable, yet low-profile enough to be used in the mountains.
  20. HB out of business: need offset advice

    Holy schmankies!! HB offsets are like bread & butter for pin scars - best ever! I just ran down & got an extra double set from my local shop in a panic when I found out...
  21. [TR] Stuart- Direct NW Face 8/9/2005

    Outstanding gents!
  22. posting attatchments

    With a limit of 100000 bytes on attatchment files, how do I best compress or format photos/scans to fit? And how do I paste them directly onto the post, rather than folks having to click on an 'attatchment' button?
  23. Climb: Mount Stuart-Northwest Spur Date of Climb: 7/18/2005 Trip Report: On Sunday night around midnight NOLSe and I left Ingalls Lake trailhead and spent the cooler nighttime hours hiking towards Goats Pass. Making the pass in four hours - due in no small part to NOLSe's nocturnal trailfinding skills - we curled up under a rock, swatted bugs, and did windmills to stay warm for an hour awaiting dawn. Soon we traversed the lower moraine towards our intended objective, Stuart's Razorback ridge. Once onto the Stuart glacier however, our oblique angle made it more difficult to discern features and their exact locations. We crossed the schrund of an inviting-looking spur and traveled some distance up on good granite, only to see Razorback ridge off to our left! Keeping the rope handy for quick deployment, we continued to solo up fourth- and fifth-class terrain to the feature's termination, still well below the West ridge. Bypassing more difficult-looking terrain above and to our left, we traversed a couloir onto the upper Northwest buttress, ultimately reaching the West ridge near the West Horn. From that point we followed the West ridge to the summit. Descending the Cascadian and across Longs Pass, we returned to our car in just under thirteen hours(12:58). I'm unsure of this feature's exact name or ascent history(if any), but it's location (appoximately midway between Razorback and the Nortwest Buttress) prompted "Northwest Spur". A quick scan of current CAG & recent AAJs didn't produce any pertinent info. NOLSe had the camera, so he'll put up some pix for reference. The route travelled maybe ca. 8-900 ft(with an additional 4-500 ft finishing on the Northwest Buttress) up mostly good Stuart granite with some wet slabs down low, lots of lichen, and of course some loose terrain to avoid. We stayed mostly to the ridge crest, traversing left or right occasionally as needed. Postscript: NOLSe was a caffeine-fueled driving machine that whisked me from my doorstep to the trailhead and back again...cheers for that!!!
  24. [TR] Mount Stuart- Northwest Spur 7/18/2005

    Here's a cruddy scan of our approximate line of travel... (see attatchment)