marcus

Nice photos Nick...but where are the sexy pics of you?

Here's some other pics:

I'd recommend shoring up, at least seam-gripping, the seams around the guyline attatchment points. Otherwise the stitching can begin to separate under wind stress over time. Beyond that, just be careful setting it up - that's when you'll trash it!

Well...this has become one of the most bloated threads of all time - a testament I guess to the awesome spell we've had! But just in case its still used to post climbs, conditions, etc.: Climbed two lines today approx. 1.1mi east of Angel's Rest parking TH. Dunno of any previous FA info, never seen 'em before so we call 'em: "Shark Attack", a 35m stellar WI4 with a grand turfing topout; and "Dog House"(?) is a fat 40m WI3 flow right next door. You can see 'em from the road, just hike 30min right up the drainage. It's warming up...clock's ticking!

Marcus D and friend did it last friday, its in this thread. Climbed it with HalBurton...he climbed like a hero on some pretty tricky stuff. By the way: effin' awesome job the other day Wayne!

Climbed Ainsworth yesterday...awesome route. Did 3 60m pitches with simuling, would also work as 4-5p. Very long, techy last pitch(recommend 70m ropes if you don't wanna simul WI4). 60m v-threads the whole way now with rap sling on tree, climber's left at top. Get on it - routes like this in our backyard...hell yeah! Got yer note Wayne - but I had to drive straight to work afterwards. Have fun!

With so many nailing routes going clean now using the wide arsenal of modern trickery, your time might be better spent growing your skill set in a different direction. Competent use of cam hooks, HBs, Aliens(including offsets, rad for pin scars),Zeros, Lowe Balls, Tri-cams, hand-placed sawed-off pins, and more aggressive hooking can enable you to forgo the hammer in most instances. Learning these now standard tricks of the trade will let you move faster - even in those spots where you really might have to occasionally pound one in. And it'll make those boring old 'trade routes' far more engaging!

Hiked to base of Ainsworth Left today - dropping pretty substantial debris. Mid-30s at car, but felt much warmer higher up. Drove further up the Gorge to a colder pocket where my partner styled a 50m line in WI4 condition out of the Starvation lot for his warm-up lead of the season. 40F with much visible route degradation since yesterday on the drive back... Starvation: no Cabin Creek: no Lancaster: no

Aside from the good-time runouts...Mike failed to note that the real scariest part of trip was that we watched "The Weatherman"! AAAAAAAAAAAAGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!

Good on ya, guys! What was the appoach time on Twin Lakes trail?

Nice job, Dan! Who're ya climbing with these days?

Thanks for the assist!

zzzzzzzzzz...

Up on Cloudcap Tuesday...about 18-24" of recent snow under a crust from Saturday. Unfortunately the crust is insulating the lower snowpack, slowing its consolidation. At the very least, bring floatation and a lot of patience...use your judgment. However, ridge routes on the West side are building up some good rime right now...

Have any of you eastsiders been out to Strawberry Lake recently? Road conditions? Route conditions??

As of 11/8, all Cloudcap gates are still open - 4wd recommended. Today I reached the upper gate(ca. 4700'), but saw a couple other rigs get stranded. Major windfall on the road a couple of hundred yards past upper gate, plus significantly more snow higher... Hiked up to Cloudcap TH: A couple of feet of powder under a crust from Sat pm. Floatation would be helpful above 5500'... Looks like the lower Cooper Spur ice is in decent shape

Ouch! Maybe I should consider myself fortunate that I couldn't get it. However, I saw some interviews(Steve House, et.al.) that looked interesting...

Has anyone checked out podClimber? Its a podcast show produced out of Bend. Interviews, spray, etc. I found the website on rockclimbing.com(podClimber.com) but have had some trouble downloading it...

For one tool in the mountains, gotta be the Co-brah. Does everything decently. Sensitive enough for scratchy mixed, nice balance, carbon fiber dampening. However, beware the dreaded 'cobra pinky' until you get your swing dialed... Unfortunately, Cobras don't have an effective leashless mod and you don't wanna drill that carbon fiber. So if you're going leashless, consider BDs Vipers, the Taakoon or the Quark: all leashless-capable, yet low-profile enough to be used in the mountains.

Holy schmankies!! HB offsets are like bread & butter for pin scars - best ever! I just ran down & got an extra double set from my local shop in a panic when I found out...

Outstanding gents!

With a limit of 100000 bytes on attatchment files, how do I best compress or format photos/scans to fit? And how do I paste them directly onto the post, rather than folks having to click on an 'attatchment' button?

Here's a cruddy scan of our approximate line of travel... (see attatchment)

Will folks lose their address books as well?

MtnHigh - I'm glad your friends returned home safely