billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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Who is bitching?
You are. Hope that helps.
Ivan, you have some of the most righteous sayings and interesting pictures in your climbing posts. Please, for those of us who pop in here and appreciate seeing climbing content, continue. And thanks for the vicarious high:-)
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Speaking only for myself, although I don't get around crowds much, I do know lots of folks with kids of all ages and get invited out with them on occasion. It's usually a real pleasure to be around them. 95% of the time they are so happy and upbeat it just makes your heart happy and your face smile. Doesn't seem to matter if they are outclimbing me :-), playing grabass with each other, or sitting on the ground playing with toy soldiers. I appreciate your attitude of watching out for cranky adults though:-) - good parenting.
Right on Rudy! My best to you and yours, and add my congrats to Drew too!
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I'm with Bob (worked yesterday), this thread got dated in a single day.
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Yeah, you'd think that for 22 bux per climber the FS would have their shit together and be a little better aout reporting conditions for that hill. I called them 2 weeks ago a couple of days before our climb. When I asked the woman that answered the phone and offered to answer my questions about conditions on the upper mountain her only comment was that it "is still covered in snow and might be icy or slushy"
Thanks.
It is not the Forest Services job Kirk, nor would we as climbers want them to be in charge of advisories and such, they could just as easily shut it down after a couple of lawsuits for giving incorrect info when the weather changes and causes a death. The FS should just stay the hell away. Charging money to walk on your own damned mt. is wrong IMO and they should not be doing that.
Things were very loose for us and we set off many small point releases on our descent but we were slow and late in the day. Of course freezing level is supposed to be well above the summit of St. Helens now so you probably couldn't leave early enough to get it when it's frozen.Right on, sounds like you might have gotten the view of the crater and the surrounding environs at least.
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A true modern day hero, if you will.
....and she had the smarts and good sense to drop out of a filthy rich vaginal tract too, ensuring a life of ease, unlike most of us. If you could stop worrying over mammon and just climb, you'd finally be a 5.10 climber in no time.
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Update: Slayer no longer exists outside of cd's, spider kills lead guitarist Jeff Hanneman. (Allegedly). Sorry Kevbone and other lovers of this terrible music.
http://news.yahoo.com/slayer-guitarist-jeff-hanneman-dies-49-010947594.html
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Thanks for the heads up Bob. The fast corrosion issues could be that they are not passivising them as well. Regardless, good stuff to avoid, even though the price is soooooo nice.
Here's the thread on that hanger. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2624440;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread
Climb X responded:
"The Facts so Far:This is the first report of a possible hanger problem.
Climb X produces both steel and stainless steel Hangers.
We have requsted the hangers in question be returned for evaluation and testing.
Testing is also in progress on other productions of hangers, our brand and others. No problems can be found with the current stock other than the indoor hangers will corode more rapidly in a wet or salt/coastal enviroment (not intended for outdor use)
Both styles of hangers have been on the market for several years. Steel for indoors and stainless for outdoors.
The report our office recieved stated one hanger but showed several photos of the hanger.
The Hangers are produced in Tawian where many other hangers are produced. Some of the other hangers are mentioned in this thread. Taiwan materials were used.
The question was what can cause this? Lots of possibilities. Steel hangers could have been unknowingly used instead of stainless. Often bolts/hangers in Asia are hammered to keep people from being able to remove/steal them, a material flaw, exsessive load, they could have been tampered with, production issue, missuse, reaction between the bolt and the hanger, these are some of the reasons. We will post again when we have useful information.
We have posted a warning on our website for people purchasing Hangers to only use the stainless for outdoors. The Heat treated steel are for indoor/gym use.
Thanks for your patience to those of you with serious interest.
Climb X Gear
Saw this report over there, Petzl biner breaking. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2622082;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
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My brother was a 1/2 hour from the finish line. He ran a 5K last night which took some of the starch out of him I think, if he hadn't done that he very well may have been standing there wheezing or walking off.
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THIS?
[video:youtube]
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Damn....we've borrowed so much more by now it's almost ridiculous.
Wonder what we've been spending all that money we've been borrowing from the Fed on to support those "essential government services". Oh, here ya go. Spying on the occupy kids and free speech protestors. Your tax dollars, plus another 40% borrowed to make up the shortfall, at work. Think of it as an "investment" in the future. http://rt.com/usa/peaceful-demonstrators-spying-security-250/
Doubts over Department of Homeland Security surveillance are nothing new - especially after a Senate committee found “fusion centers” were breaching civil liberties. Now, documents show the agency spies on peaceful demonstrations "as a matter of policy."The latest round of documents, acquired by the Partnership for Civil Justice Fund (PCJF) through a Freedom of Information Act request, provide concrete evidence of routine DHS surveillance of peaceful demonstrations.
The 'fusion centers' and DHS ‘Mega Centers’ were said to be born as part of a post-9/11 bid to coordinate intelligence gathering efforts among local police, the DHS and the FBI on anti-terrorism efforts.
Now, according to the thousands of pages of documents received by the PCJF, we know that these centers did, in fact, assist in coordinating intelligence gathering - though in this case, on the Occupy movement and other free speech protests.
According to the PCJF, the new material includes details of DHS surveillance of protests in Asheville, North Carolina; Miami, Tampa, Fort Lauderdale and Jacksonville, Florida; Lansing and Detroit, Michigan; Denver, Colorada; Kansas City, Missouri; Los Angeles; Boston; Dallas and Houston, Texas; Minneapolis;Jersey City; Phoenix, Arizona; Lincoln, Nebraska; Chicago; Salt Lake City and elsewhere.
In addition to simple surveillance, documents also reveal a more proactive approach taken in other instances:
“In preparation for planned protests in New York City on October 15, 2011, the DHS documents show coordination between federal and local authorities to use New York City’s permitting scheme to frustrate, obstruct or stop free speech activities.”
The PCJF also believes that its FOIA released documents indicate instances of “off the books” - that is, illegal - intelligence collection:
As one DHS agent writes in response to a request for information on the Occupy movement in New England, “This meeting should be finishing up soon and I'll have access to a non-DHS computer that will allow me to do more looking.”
So, is this more evidence of the DHS missing the mark on its principal mission, which is to concentrate its efforts on terrorist concerns?
According to the Senate’s bipartisan Permanent Subcommittee on Investigations, which released its findings following a two-year long probe of the matter, “more often than not” information collected and shared at DHS fusion centers was “unrelated to terrorism.”
The whole Senate report portrayed many of the Homeland Intelligence Reports (HIRs) circulated by DHS between its fusion centers as dubious at best:
“Of the 386 unclassified HIRs that DHS eventually published over the 13-month period reviewed by the Subcommittee investigation, a review found close to 300 of them had no discernible connection to terrorists, terrorist plots or threats.”
Much like the ultimate findings of that Senate report, the PCFJ is left wondering why the DHS Threat Management Division directed Regional Intelligence Analysts to produce a “Daily Intelligence Briefing” that included a category on “Peaceful Activist Demonstrations.”
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Free Ebook
in Spray
Downloaded and perused the start and it looks like pretty good stuff. Thanks Jon!!
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Bonus points to Drew. But the rest of you ladies get a little touchy when someone criticizes your fella for offing a few unarmed citiznes who he claimed needed to be snuffed ....just because they needed it.....We don't need no stinking constitution, we have perfection and bliss hah hah! I have no love for Chavez or Sean Penn either, I was only noting that Chavez didn't have a program to murder his citizens for criticizing the country like our President does. (or at least Obama claims he does this service for us weekly by evaluating the next drone strike targets)
Damn touchy group here LOL.
BTW, douchbag for sure in this country, but how many times was Hugo elected by popular vote? I thought dictators didn't keep running in fair and open elections where everyone voted.
One mans twisted opinion:
http://venezuelanalysis.com/analysis/5966
and some more info here:
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I dibs King Abdullah of Saudia Arabia as the 1'st dictator to check out, by a nose.
Possible replacement below.
Chavez was voted into an office titled "President", and has not killed any of his citizens. Which makes him a President and not a dictator. If he were to order the summary executions of some of them I could see changing that title. Would you call him Dictator if he was murdering his citizens without trial?
Hmmmm
Now here's a "President" that has personally ordered the summary executions without trial or due process of 4 of his citizens so far that we know of. LONG MAY THE GREAT MAN LIVE!! (they have hired people to monitor this kind of post)
DISARM THE PEOPLE!!! THEY HAVE NOTHING TO FEAR AND NO NEED FOR WEAPONRY!!
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[video:youtube]45_iqB4RO34
Holy crap, classic Portland:-). Damn that's funny stuff Oly. I can see folks getting yoinked about everyone asking for money for every little thing that they want to do but don't want to give up morning mochas to save the $ up for, but if you don't want to donate, don't. Simple. Let it go....
let it go.....(insert cleansing breath here:-)
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If anyone knows Alpinefox, nudge him awake to look at this soon. Auction closes in @11 hours. I have to put this long shot out there. Most likely not his gear, but I remember when I had my tools stolen out of my locked canopy on my truck, I forgot to list a bunch of stuff with my insurance folks.....and realized it the first time I needed my tape measure:-)
It doesn't match up exactly, but it's been 4 or 5 years. Has the requisite Red Tape and red fingernail polish and the person admittedly doesn't know gear.
Says:
"Large miscellaneous about 40-50 pieces. A few maybe new, most used.About 7 cams
11 Screws
12 cable tethered Wedges
Wedges
Tethers
Carabiners
and other assorted tackle items as shown.
Not an expert in this field. Will attempt to answer reasonable questions."
Bunch of photos, I'll post 2. Note red fingernail polish on the Red Metolius cam?
[img:left]http://img2.iwascoding.com/0/2013/02/18/6E/541357A07E214A48A480F1B204E1629D.jpg[/img]
and another one:
Titled
"ICE ROCK CLIMBING -Med. LOT-Wedges Floats Cams Carabiners-Alein Yates USHBA B.D. "More of the same.
But you don't mention having any ice tools lifted. This guy has 3 Grivels for sale.
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I may have to revise what I said upthread. I just bought a Yates Kong backup. Had it out the other day for some semi wet and dirty toproping and it kicked ass. Exclusion that they say it will work on a 13mm rope, I had a 12.3mm static and that was too large for smooth, hands off, feeding. On a 10.5 dynamic it was so smooth running up the rope that it was scary. Seems to lock up great too although I was too chickenshit to fall on it and grabbed the rope and cinched it to set it before hanging on the rope to clean some blackberry bushes out.
That it will take a Fall factor 2 without chopping the rope didn't much ease my mind as it was new, and plenty of people have been dropped with partners using the "Failsafe" Gri gri and Cinchs. Soloing is much more gear intensive. So I had backup knots, but can see that it may be the best device for rope solo. Leading possibly, toproping certainly. BTW, I own the Grigri, Grigri 2, Cinch, Soloist and a Silent Partner (otherwise best for TR with the exclusion that overhangs and possibly weird body position traverses are out of the question as the device won't lock on an inverted fall), so I've had some experience in hating various equipment:-) It's an industrial safety device they show rigged to the back of a harness on the D ring. Putting it in front off the belay loop seemed to transition well for the thing. The slide knob on the left in the photo is utilized to tighten it up on the rope. One position it rolls up and down freely although you have to grab it and keep it positioned correctly. When you do
this:
ps, in my mind, the Cinch would have the greatest possibility to put you on the dirt and it would be the worse of all the devices. I'd rather just go old school and use a clove hitch if aid soloing or put a jumar on the rope.
There is a good discussion on Supertopo on how the hard core Yosemite guys do TR soloing you might look up. They effectively use 2 Mini Trax's in line.
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A Scout is:
in Spray
When trashie infests a topic or thread it’s like going to the country club or company picnic and having some loud, obnoxious, know it all teenager that just won’t STFU. Continually bullying, cajoling and otherwise misbehaving. Not knowing when to stop, she screams, “look at me, look how smart I am, look how stupid you are”. All the while the parents from Berkley are oblivious that little precious princess could ever do anything wrong. … If anyone interferes or brings up the annoying little brat, she goes into full on temper tantrum, legs and arms flailing. Screaming, “It’s my party”... “I want a pony and I want it NOW, daddy”. It just gets so damn annoying that you wonder when someone will just dope-slap that spoiled little bitch.It's like Raindawg on hippie gay steroids. Sure harsh's on my spray vibe, man... provoke
You have totally captured the essence of the guy Dave. BTW, Dave is one of the nicest folks I've had the pleasure to hang with, so it's a hell of a burr under that saddle to get him riled up. I don't know why the PM's (mentioned upthread) when you can just put it right here. That hilarious and yet trainwreck like U-Tube of the little girls first car, parents buy her something like a Lexus for her 16th birthday and she goes off wailing and screaming at her parents that "ITS THE WRONG COLOR WHAAHHHHHH", is close to the guys mindset. No matter the topic, same gig. Kind of hoping that he either grows up or stops drinking...or whatever his mental problem is, that it gets fixed. Kind of given up hope on that I suppose....
Only bumped into Pat once in a public setting and he seemed pretty funny then.
HOPE AND CHANGE BABY!!!
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Gun Control
in Spray
From Cristian Science monitor article By Eric Talmadge, Associated Press / January 28, 2013
"Brazil – gun murder capitalSo how about a country that actually bans guns?
Since 2003, Brazil has come close to fitting that description. Only police, people in high-risk professions and those who can prove their lives are threatened are eligible to receive gun permits. Anyone caught carrying a weapon without a permit faces up to four years on prison.
But Brazil also tops the global list for gun murders.
According to a 2011 study by the UN Office on Drugs and Crime, 34,678 people were murdered by firearms in Brazil in 2008, compared to 34,147 in 2007. The numbers for both years represent a homicide-by-firearm rate of 18 per 100,000 inhabitants — more than five times higher than the US rate.
Violence is so endemic in Brazil that few civilians would even consider trying to arm themselves for self-defense. Vast swaths of cities like Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro are slums dominated by powerful drug gangs, who are often better armed than the police. Brazilian officials admit guns flow easily over the nation's long, porous Amazon jungle border.
Still, Guaracy Mingardi, a crime and public safety expert and researcher at Brazil's top think tank, Fundacao Getulio Vargas, said the 2003 law helped make a dent in homicides by firearms in some areas.
According to the Sao Paulo State Public Safety Department, the homicide rate there was 28.29 per 100,000 in 2003 and dropped to 10.02 per 100,000 in 2011.
Brazil wants more powerful guns in the hands of police. This month, the army authorized law enforcement officers to carry heavy caliber weapons for personal use.
Ligia Rechenberg, coordinator of the Sou da Paz, or "I am for Peace," violence prevention group, thinks that could make things worse. She said police will buy weapons that "they don't know how to handle, and that puts them and the population at risk."
Interesting story here discussing the 2003 Brazilian "Disarmament Statute" as they call it. The short version, just like in the US where we attribute declining crime rates to increased gun ownership, in Brazil, declining gun ownership tied to declining crime is most likely a demographic issue.
http://www.comunidadesegura.org/en/story-enforcing-brazils-gun-law-eight-years-later
Next up. Oh oh, looks like someone fell off the wagon and is slurring their words midday again.
Idiots wouldn't be such a problem if they would just STFU. Unfortunately, the greater the chasm between actual and self described intellect, the more energetic the geyser of bullshit. Despite immediate self identification as buffoons, they still manage to make the world a little dumber due to shear output.Hence - gun nutz. Even when they acknowledge they're simply tools in an extremely obvious, fear based gun marketing campaign, one that has actively quashed most real studies of the horrific levels of gun violence in the US which is so obviously and directly tied to nearly zero restrictions on gun sales, they still can't seem to take a breath through their nostrils.
Whether it's secret hero fantasy, tiny penis syndrome, or just proverbial fear of the Black Revolution, it's the same old shit, different bowlful of morons.
Meanwhile, kids continue to die in their schoolrooms because of it.
Thanks for that, assholes.
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KICK ASS BOYZ!!!
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Sorry to hear of your fathers passing Steve. Tough to see your dad get old and check out. Wishing you well.
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Gun Control
in Spray
Have any of you ever been in a "situation" where all the other folks had gun(s), but you didn't? Just curious.Sure. The last time when I hiked up to Bagby Hot Springs met a guy carrying. I don't carry, didn't even have a pocket knife (I usually might only have 1 of the ten essentials, but it rotates which one it is) and will admit that it made me nervous till I had edged up on the guy close enough for comfort and stuck up a conversation and soon realized that other than the cowboy looking gun he had on his hip, he sounded and looked normal.
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Gun Control
in Spray
They were able to all but ban guns in Brazil via strict regs and requirements. Not gun violence though. Just the guns. Turns out, and I know this will shock the shit out of some of you, that criminals don't follow the law. So while you think banning guns here will do anything, it won't. Stupid gun accidents, crimes and suicides will decrease from honest people, but criminals will pick up the slack. End result, you will be less secure. Politicians will continue to amass power and we will have given up incrementally more.
Look at Brazil or Mexico. Look at the laws they have passed and the net result. Too many douchbags that don't give a f**k about others.
Mexico has strict gun laws. They've been able to disarm the honest people. Yet Mexico has enshrined rights in their constitution just like the US. Here are some of their gun "restrictions" which serve to keep guns in the hands of police, criminals and military....which are all sort of interchangeable there.
Net effect is that dishonest politicians and dishonest police and army folks are out of control. They'll sell guns to criminals and report them stolen. One way to make a buck. Or they prey on civis and kidnap their children to pick up a few extra bucks. Gun violence is shitloads worse in Brazil where the gun restrictions are much more strict. Of course, the crooks don't give a shit.The privilege of carrying a firearm outside of one's home is limited to what is authorized by Mexican federal law. Mexican citizens and a Residente Permanente can apply for a carry permit. Convincing evidence must be presented showing why a carry permit is needed. Such a permit is very hard to get. There are work-arounds by membership in a hunting or gun club as discussed below.All privately-owned firearms must be registered with the Mexican army.
Types of guns allowed
Article 11 of Ley Federal de Armas de Fuego y Explosivos lists prohibited "military firearms" in México.
They include:
full-auto and semi-auto handguns larger than 380
revolver .357 Magnum or larger
rifles larger than .30 caliber
shotguns larger than 12ga or with a barrel shorter than 25".
Allowed hand gun calibers are .380 auto, .38 and .22.
Allowed long guns: rifles no larger the 30 caliber; shotguns 12, 20 and 410 with barrels longer than 25"
There is only one legal gun store in the country; it's at an army base in Mexico City. There you can legally buy a gun and get a 24 to 72 hour transport permit back to your home. You can buy two boxes of ammo with the gun. You will need a letter from the local police department attesting that you have no criminal record. You will also need your immigration document (or voter ID card if you are a citizen) and passport with copies, your CURP and proof of address. When you arrive at the army base you will not be allowed to enter with any electronic device - cell phone, computer, camera, etc.
You must fill out an application which you can get at any army base. In addition to the completed application, you will need your immigration document (or voter ID card if you are a citizen) and passport with copies, your CURP and proof of address. When you have all of this, you may then transport the weapon to the Army base for registration. The registration application is your permit to transport the gun to the base. The gun must be in a box or wrapped so that it is not visible. The approved application will serve as your carry permit on the way home. Thereafter, you must not take the gun out of the house without a special carry permit.
Never happen here. Right? Easy to overlook the facts you don't choose to believe I guess.
You want to do something, start working on civics lessons in grade school. Not joking. It's a slow process. The founders wanted to convey something with the bill of rights...consider this. Most politicians want and seek power. Regular people do not (in the way that politicians go for it at least). That's what the 2nd amendment addresses. Who do you trust more? For me, I trust my family and friends more than power seeking politicians.
They've been able to ignore tenants of long held and established laws elsewhere. Our President chooses who will live and die weekly in drone strikes. (this is his own words)
How many Americans have been killed without trials? How many were only speaking their minds? Al-Alawaki claimed to only be a shit talking un-armed Non-combatant. The President agreed and announced his death sentence publicly. The guys dad took it to federal court to get the Presidential Fatwa overturned or at least examined where it was tossed because the Presidential Fatwa wasn't against him (ie dad had no legal standing). So they snuffed him. No due process. Snuffed him for violating their interpretation of the 1st Amendment. Then 2 weeks later they killed his 16 year old son although one of the Obama administration people said that the execution of the son was due to bad parenting. Any of you want to explain or discuss that? Didn't think so.
Of course, fortunately, our President is a "constitutional scholar" is smart and would never make a mistake. These un-armed miscreants clearly needed to be killed without due process. Right? Maybe free speech ain't so free anymore? Anyone wonder what Washington, Jefferson or Madison would say about the killing of citizens without trials for shit talkin'? Was King George even killing people without trials because of things that they said?
The thought coming out of Washington is that the 1st amendment is teetering our way so lets go after the next one now.
Maybe we should start calling it the "Bill of Things we'd like to see if our betters will let us have them" or "Bill of some things that would be Nice to Have" instead of the Bill of Rights. [/daily rant]
Take care all.
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Wonder if this is a true story. It's got to be bullshit, I don't think I believe it. Of course, they say he's a criminal and a crazy F?, maybe it's true. Maybe he should just be locked up.
http://www.presstv.ir/ or direct http://www.presstv.ir/detail/2013/02/04/287235/fbi-stops-malcolm-x-grandson-trip-to-iran/
"The grandson of the late African-American civil rights leader Malcolm X has been arrested by FBI agents on his way to Iran, Press TV reports.Muslim civil activist Malcolm Shabazz was reportedly arrested before starting his scheduled visit to Tehran to attend a conference on Hollywoodism, sources outside the United States confirmed on Monday.
The Federal Bureau of Investigation has refused to provide any information about his whereabouts."
Maybe they are using the outdated "Don't ask don't tell policy " to bury dudes in obscure prisons. What would the charge be? Flying while black? "We had to keep the Shit(e) out of da plane, boss? Anyway, "it's off to Guantanamo for the lad for an all expense paid trip by you, Mr and Mrs Taxpayer." I understand that the food is great and the beaches warm and fun. The department of homeland security spending is going through the roof, "UNLIMITED TAXPAYER MONEY!!!! WOOT!!!! Send the rest of the Shites over", they say. Keep hope alive.
Perhaps Mr Shabbazz needs to get on the "new hope and change" America bus or get shipped off to prison. Well, I mean, accept the "hope and change" mantra to get out of prison. Clearly the first Amendment has it's limits, as Anwar Al-Awaki learned much too late. ANWAR DONE INSPIRING LINK Anwar, these days we'll just kill you for what we perceive as yelling "FIRE" in a crowded theater. It's legal now to do so and the President evaluates malcontents weekly. He'll get around to Pat soon enough I suppose. They are thinking: "We've expanded the first amendment restrictions to don't say anything negative about us." As long as you don't say a bad word why would you care about the new restrictions? Right? So don't be trash talking the man. In fact, publishing this post should get me on the list as well. Too fucking bad I guess. Maybe I'll get Shabazz as a roommate. He can do a Chris Rock imitation and I can be either Stan Laurel or Hardy. Except maybe I'll get Pat as a roommate, my version of Dantes hell. Keep hope alive.
pfft, can't be true, they probably arrested Chris Rock. Keep hope alive.
Oh, check out the comments too. LOL. And you thought some of you all were nasty bitches? Wow!
n k e y 
Beacon
in Columbia River Gorge
Posted
Are you talking close to straight up or the stepping down and right before heading up past 4 bolts. Curious which and what you folks thought the rating wuz.