billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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By the third runner, the show was over.
First come first served.
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Life is an eyeblink.
xoxo all.
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Way to beat the heat dudes and get a classic bagged. Another great write up Ivan. Pat, what happened to the Rope Bucket? (ie, picture was titled: "Our ill-fated rope bucket, P 7" )
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(going with the theme here)...Perhaps he has no nuts?
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Way to get it done Wayne! You guys look like you got a superb high mileage/high value trip in. Awesome. Running sierra laps at altitude? How many pitches of vertical was that?
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You complain that no one takes you seriously, but when someone does you claim its spray.
I provided the best argument I've heard (refutable perhaps, but rooted in policy not religion) against gay marriage and you failed again to provide any form of cogent response. That's why most people here find you boorish, dull, and a bit mentally delayed.
Rough spray there dude. So .... are you saying it's not OK to marry ones own mother to get the tax break?
edited to add: I always wondered why Mormon men could NOT legally marry multiple women. (the great compromise for Utah to become a state). It seemed like a clear cut case of the state unnecessarily getting involved in someones religion to me. Who cares as long as all parties concerned are doing it voluntarily? In my mind, as long as you don't dump 30 kids on the states welfare rolls or ask me for an extra tax break cause you are married to many women, I don't care, why should the government be involved in this decision?
Clearly someone did or does I suppose, polygamy gets prosecuted and there has been jail time for the same.
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One of the features I love is that they don't seem to get stuck. Metolius Supercams seem to be getting stuck all the time for me, where you have to work at getting it out, not the Totems.
Great range, great holding power, don't get stuck. What's not to luv?
Oh, Price.
Shoulder dependent, planning on taking them and the shotguns out tomorrow for the shooting/climbing dual excitement excursion with the pup.
Not this pup:
This one:
Totem cams and Vepr 12's - Woot!
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I can't argue against it Bone, everyone should have to suffer equally. The divorce lawyers must be drooling.
ps Ivan, do you have a TR in the making?
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I missed this thread first go round. Wow, good stuff. (as in informative good) They say that a picture is worth a thousand words. True in this case.
Thanks for sharing that.
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HOT friggan damn! Great work at it. Badassed and a great write up as a happy finish! Woot! Thanks for sharing it. Really.
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@##X$!!! Thieves.
Timetraveler: Do you still have the painting for sale? Is it in your Portland store? We have all the paintings of the house down and figure that I can finally go for what I want now:-)
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Sorry bill not trying to bust your balls. Totally appreciate the work, money, time, and sweat you put into helping Ivan with stone soup. Hoping to get back up there to work a fully free varation and might consider taking a drill to move that bolt, with your approval of course. Hope you are healing up well man and I look forward to seeing you some this summer.
Cheers
Bryan S.
DITTO on the seeing part! The TIME thing was all Ivan, he was kind enough to invite me in for a slice. Good times. I'm not offended at all B! I wuz jus' sayin' is all. Move the bolt so that everyone doesn't get hosed:-) As far as someone freeing it, I'd figured you'd have already done it. But, note that the 4th or 5th pitch, where there is a shit load of loose looking rocks, I'd make sure that you have no one underneath you on the ground.
Ivan aided that pitch and I figured I'd just follow him on TR. No excuses here and I'm not sayin that pumping out while pulling out gear set good and deep by a big 6'6" guy leading on aid and not weighting the rope was my issue...cause I have no excuses *cough* age * weak * cough* old pussy* cough* * , but Ivan pointed out that there is a strong temptation to grab the big holds off to the right and told me DON'T DO THAT ! .... Right he was, nice judgement call by the man as they are loose blocks that appear totally unsupported and will lead to death to anyone underneath...so I studiously avoided doing that ....till I finally gave up and pulled on some gear staying on the clean section. The blocks are bigger than a microwave and are the roll model for the stacked cans you see in the grocery store. Pulling out the bottom one will of course be a bad, bad move:-) The bounce from that height may mean you'd land one on a car or the trail...either way, much like an out of control Pachinco machine:-) . And as I was right there doing it I thought, I could just grab those easy looking blocks...and I knew that I'd kill someone....and the other thought was "There a a few folks I know could pull this off without touching them". You were on that list.
I'd tough base with Ivan to head up there although he may have run off to get some real climbing now since school is out. I have some "caution tape" I'll give you if you need, and can connect you with a world class belayer (who might not have done the route yet) if Ivan split and you are still interested...but I'm still toast for now. I've been thinking about this route. It should be free now. I hiked a lap via the trail on Monday and saw the brethren at work. I heard "ROCK" up there someplace...so I crack wise in my old man voice "YOU CALL THAT A ROCK, PFTTT ...IN MY DAY.....HRUMP..." Thinking it was both funny AND anonymous as I'm out of sight in the trees and disguising my voice...I hear a long pause from the group up there on the wall.....then..."Bill....?"
Which is about when Sadie May the trailer park floozie choose to chase 2 chipmunks into the Poison Oak.
I don't have a good photo of it, the stuff below and near him is all solid and good pro, but you can see it starting just above Ivans head in this photo. Maybe pitch 4 or soish.
Do it.
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Bottom line; party in front has the right of way. If they don't want to let you climb through, and you can't get around them on another line, wait or bail.
bailing off the RNWF after the robbins traverse would be epic, and require leaving pretty much your entire rack.
Crap. It's painful just reading your story. Sorry for you dudes...damned. Normally you can keep a watch on the route and pick your time, but not really for this route cause if you IAD it and folks are sleeping at the base, you wouldn't see them even if there was light when you started out, which there probably wasn't. I know guys who ask nicely and just climb past if they get a "No". I've yet to do it, but could see it happening in your case.....Wow. 2 of my buddies were on that route when Jose Perera and Dean Potter came blasting up to link it and the Nose IAD. They were moved back out of the way in the chimneys and had stopped to give them clearance as there wasn't much gear used and they were essentially simu-soloing, but said as Dean and Jose got to below them they just said hi and popped around the corner out of sight to climb an off route crack right past them.
As far as getting down, is it still that iffy? Cause you'd wind up on the Direct NW Face wouldn't you, and you'd think that others would have gone your way before. That's just a sucky spot to get stuck up high at night, cause you'll be in cold weather most of the time.
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How was your father's day?
Awesome, spent it with my boy and whole bunches of other family as he was doing the cap and gown and got his college degree. (kid was wearing 5.10ies under the gown) He wanted to get out and do a lap, but my shoulders (torn rotator cuffs) are still in the shit stage and we never effected my older brothers desire to go lap a summit as my mom is 91 and no one wanted to ditch her this year as was traditionally done in the past.
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with one exception. That bolt that is on the wide pitch, needs to be moved up about four feet so it actually keeps you off the ground...
Agreed, but you wind up with that kind of stuff when you are ground up climbing and the thinking is: "Hey, I'm on a hell of a nice stance right here, and a quick glance up...SWEET JESUS! what the hell is that up there?....hmmmmm, you consider, if I launch up and have to try and find a good stance someplace up in the wild wyde blue yonder to put a bolt in up there and if I peel from there it's gonna make ugly seem like a tame word....LOL....." so the bolt goes in at the best spot to drill from and it's the wrong spot later when you soon find out that the wide stuff above wasn't as horrific as it looked from below. Ivan has already invited bolt replacements I'm sure he'd be fine with it as would I on any I put in.
ps. I was just kidding about Pinks route getting 13 bolts and someone claiming a FA, he's the sensitive type and I couldn't resist. Surprised he didn't bite though, figured he'd be easier to troll. I need to brush up on me trollin' skillz. I'll try again later. :-)
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Unlike some of the mean spirited douchbags on CC.com, some of whom have weighed in on this thread already, Kevin is a good person and has a good heart.
If it was me picking and choosing who hung around here, I'd take Kevin any day of the week over some of the overeducated overopinionated no morals or soul shit heads who regularly think that attacking others shows the world that they are smarter than the person they are attacking. Anyone who is smart enough to know better but enjoys publicly and directly belittling others, is a total fuckhead not worth responding to or having a discourse with IMO.
Later Kev, have a good time out climbing. Keep heart and remember that at least you're a good person and not a dipshit and a jackass like some of the turds who regularly attack or bait you.
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go and lead the first pitch of smoke signals, i'd love to hear what you think about it
it's the pitch next to ivans famed stone soup. That route is listed in the brand new guidebook as "Crossdressing Fool" 5.10+, 13 bolts. Just got done last year.
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Without pictures are lame......I enjoy very much as long as there are pictures to view.
I have the same feeling about Playboy, so I can totally relate to the Bone here. Not encouraging Ivan or anyone else to peel cloths off or anything crazy here.....regardless, those bastards at work always stick up the pages of that great mag so you get reduced to reading Gore Vidal or Ulysses by James Joyce. Shit. Oh, what that means Bone, is that you have to read slowly, and re-read for content. At some point it gets easier to catch the meaning and the content depending on how much red wine said artist has imbibed beforehand.
Anyway, here's a pic for ya Bone:
Tell me whats happin there...... another one - Hishoner hiself in full on klusterfuchage modeality. Jus belay me bitch.
Heard this once, thought it was pretty funny: "Jus do your 60 meters and STFU."
We might need to add, AND POST SOME FRIKKAN PICS TOO!!!!!!Bad to the Bone.....BBBUUUUUBBBBUUUUBADDDDDDDD! Bad to the bone. hey, on that 2nd picture Kev, don't read a damned thing into it when you look at Ivans helmet. He put that shit up there for the satellites that are tracking him. Not directed at U. Read it slow.
Take care kev, it's all good. LOL. Really.
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Laugh or cry.....
[video:youtube]
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Little history of Memorial Day story from the Times of Israel.
"BOSTON — Few Americans know that Memorial Day evolved from the vanquished southern states’ own “Confederate Memorial Day,” launched in 1866. Even fewer Americans remember what happened in Atlanta on Confederate Memorial Day in 1913, when a young woman’s murder led to the creation of the Anti-Defamation League and reinvigorated its nemesis, the Ku Klux Klan.Thirteen-year old Mary Phagan was beaten and strangled in the basement of her former place of employment, an Atlanta pencil factory, on April 26, 1913. The factory was managed by 29-year-old Leo Frank, a Jew raised in Brooklyn and educated at Cornell University. After becoming investigators’ top suspect in two days, Frank submitted to a murder trial brimming with anti-Semitic vitriol, hearsay testimony and conflicting statements.
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In an American version of the Dreyfuss Affair, shouts of “hang the Jew!” echoed through the courthouse during the trial. The jury pronounced Frank guilty and he was sentenced to death on August 25, 1913. After a national outcry, Georgia governor John Slaton determined Frank had not received a fair trial, and his sentence was commuted to life in prison.
The commutation set off another outcry, with Slaton hung in effigy and the boycott of Jewish businesses in Atlanta. Particularly outraged were some of Georgia’s top political and civic leaders, one of whom coined the phrase, “Lynch law is better than no law at all.” Some of these men were more public than others about their bigotry, but all were outraged by the governor’s decision and what they viewed as the threat posed by Georgia’s 3,000 Jews.
Determined to enact their own verdict on Leo Frank, the leaders convened technicians and strongmen to craft a plan. Calling itself “The Knights of Mary Phagan,” the well-to-do mob kidnapped Frank from the state prison in Milledgeville and drove him to a farm outside Marietta. After hanging their victim from an oak tree, mob participants snapped photographs and took pieces of Frank’s effects to sell as souvenirs. Several children, brought to witness the lynching, can be seen clutching parents’ hands in the photos.
The Leo Frank lynching, August 17, 1915 (photo credit: public domain)
The Leo Frank lynching, August 17, 1915 (photo credit: public domain)
Half of the state’s Jews fled Georgia following the lynching, and the hanging photographs were turned into postcards for sale at local stores. Anti-Semitic media outlets contributed to the fray, including the Columbia State newspaper, which claimed: “The heroic Marietta lynchers are too modest to give their photographs to the newspapers.”
Georgia’s government covered up the Frank lynching for the better part of a century, refusing to prosecute the perpetrators or posthumously pardon Frank until 1986, years after new evidence had exonerated him. Only in 2000 were members of the lynch mob publicly named – by a private citizen, of course.
Among the ring-leaders were a former Georgia governor, several mayors, and a slew of judges and sheriffs. Incredibly, some of their faces appear in the lynch mob photographs, belying the decades-old claim that no perpetrators could be identified.
It was not evident at the time, but this elite gathering of Georgia’s most prominent bigots to hang a Jew marked the rebirth of the Ku Klux Klan (KKK).
The Klan was started by Confederate war veterans after the Civil War to prevent freed slaves from obtaining rights. It has been called the first true terrorist group founded on American soil. Though the US government managed to dismantle the so-called First Klan, its mission remained alive in the minds of racist whites committed to overturning an unjust order.
The Leo Frank case inspired Klan-sympathizing racists to expand the parameters of hate by including Jews, who they viewed as dishonest and alien to white society. A cross-burning ceremony attended by some of Frank’s murderers in 1917 marked the official launch of the Second Klan. Future US Senator Tom Watson helped reignite Klan activities through incitement in southern newspapers.
However racists and anti-Semites weren’t the only ones to draw conclusions from the Leo Frank trial and refocus on organizational structures.
Immediately after Frank’s wrongful conviction in 1913, the B’nai B’rith Jewish service organization founded the Anti-Defamation League (ADL). Frank had been the Atlanta chapter president of B’nai B’rith before his trial, so the ADL’s creation within this network was more than appropriate.
The original B'nai B'rith announcement of the formation of the ADL. (photo credit: public domain)
The original B’nai B’rith announcement of the formation of the ADL. (photo credit: public domain)
“The immediate object of the League is to stop, by appeals to reason and conscience and, if necessary, by appeals to law, the defamation of the Jewish people,” said the League’s 1913 charter. “Its ultimate purpose is to secure justice and fair treatment to all citizens alike and to put an end forever to unjust and unfair discrimination against and ridicule of any sect or body of citizens.”
Founded in Chicago, the ADL currently operates 27 regional US offices and one in Israel. Its mandate to prevent defamation of Jews has greatly expanded since 1913, highlighted by decades of work to pass the Hate Crimes Prevention Act (HCPA) in 2009. In recent years, the ADL ramped up efforts to protect Israel from numerous worldwide detractors.
Following Leo Frank’s lynching, the Ku Klux Klan also learned the value of coalitions and clarity of purpose, adopting modern business practices to grow membership.
Klan recruiters – called “Kleagles” – were allowed to keep half of initiation fees, while standardized costumes and rituals consolidated the system.
'The Birth of a Nation' film in 1915 helped launch the Klan and 'invented' Klan iconography (photo credit: public domain)
‘The Birth of a Nation’ film in 1915 helped launch the Klan and ‘invented’ Klan iconography (photo credit: public domain)
D.W. Griffith’s February 1915 film, “The Birth of a Nation,” rolled out First Klan iconography still familiar around the world, including burning crosses and those bulky white robes. Two decades before “Triumph of the Will” and Hitler’s fire-strewn rallies, the Klan nailed down the indoctrination genre much closer to home.
Preaching “One Hundred Percent Americanism,” at its peak the Klan claimed to include more than four-million men as supporters. Klan leader William J. Simmons developed new terminology for his brethren, including Kloran (ritual book), Klavern (local organization), and Klectoken (initiation fee).
This Second Klan ceased activity during World War II, only to reappear in the 1950s as the current Third Klan. More lethal than ever, the civil rights-era KKK murdered African American leaders and their white allies, in addition to bombing blacks’ homes and churches. The Klan continued to receive support from prominent leaders, including when Birmingham police commissioner Bull Connor allowed Klan members fifteen minutes to attack “Freedom Riders” in 1961.
Despite downsizing and the alleged victory of pluralism, the Ku Klux Klan is by no means a relic of the past.
Experts estimate there to be 5,000 active Klan members today, most of them in the American South and Midwest
The Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) continues to monitor at least 100 Klan chapters, including in Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and Louisiana. Recent years have seen the formation of Klan chapters in Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia and Germany, proving the power of bigotry to break down national barriers. Experts estimate there to be 5,000 active Klan members today, most of them in the American South and Midwest.
Though modern Klan chapters remain decentralized to prevent infiltration, it’s clear the election of President Barack Obama in 2008 fueled membership across the board. Klan leaders have also formed recent alliances with Neo-Nazi groups to fight against illegal immigration and same-sex civil marriage. The American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) has provided – to some observers’ frustration – ongoing support for Klan members’ rights to hold rallies and run for public office.
This is the cover of the 1999 cast of the Broadway production of Jason Robert Brown's 'Parade.' (photo credit: Michael Sultana, CC BY SA, via wikipedia)
This is the cover of the 1999 cast of the Broadway production of Jason Robert Brown’s ‘Parade.’ (photo credit: Michael Sultana, CC BY SA, via wikipedia)
The epic struggle between the ADL and the KKK’s conflicting worldviews has entered pop culture, including the 1999 musical “Parade,” based on the Leo Frank trial and its aftermath. A Public Broadcasting Service (PBS) special in 2009 signaled a broad approach through its title, “The People v. Leo Frank: Anti-Semitism in the USA.” And shedding light on Atlanta society circa 1913 and the justice system’s deadly breakdown was the 2003 book, “And the Dead Shall Rise,” by Steve Oney.
Leo Frank’s body was buried on August 20, 1915, in the Mount Carmel Cemetery in Queens, New York. Before his mutilated remains were transferred north, a crowd of 15,000 Atlanta citizens – some carrying bricks – surrounded the undertaker’s parlor and demanded to see the body. The most prominent lynching of an American Jew had occurred, giving simultaneous impetus to both Jewish self-defense and the country’s most notorious group of hatemongers."
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It's the "A month after the hypothetical Seattle Fault quake, more than 137,000 households would still be without water." (which doesn't mean you'll have water after a full month without it either) kind of gets yer attention in this story.
http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2021019310_quakescenariosxml.html
Earthquakes man....bad juju. I'm hoping that the old house doesn't shake apart and collapse, if it does and we're sleeping in it..whew.
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Well, as part of the new "hope and change" mantra that Americans chose 5 years back, the folks in charge have now changed the feeding practices. New ringbolts to shackle them to new chairs. May we all be so blessed. Mama was right, should just eat your vegetables.[/sarcasm]
Nutrition shake via the nose tube!
2008 version.
[video:youtube]
http://www.motherjones.com/politics/2013/05/photos-hunger-strike-guantanamo-force-feeding
http://rt.com/news/guantanamo-bay-hunger-strike-399/
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Butter? Dude looks like he needs a date for some sexy time Pink.
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...what you rate it as?
Well it's been a while, and I've been out with torn rotator cuffs. From memory.... thinking 5.9 if you followed it, but I think one of the bolts is in the wrong place as you have to make a hard move then clip it.......need to be climbing a lot and have a solid lead head for it to feel comfortable if you are at that grade, so could go 10b for the move on lead when you first see it, and suspect that given the gravity of the situation most 5.10 or maybe even a 5.11 gym climbers would back off it.........got the old school feel it has.
Of course, you have seen some grade discourse on Young Warriors on CC.com go every which way but loose, so that's not anything definitive, just tossing it out for further consideration....
Cue Kevbone spray comment....but he doesn't know what we are even talking about I'd bet. Few would. Whew, safe for now until Pink says he free soloed that line before the bolts were put in. His name for it was WallabyGollaby, as he named it for his dog I think, and he also thinks the current name, once we figure it out and tell him what is is, sucks.
PS, from the Genesis tree anchor (the lower one), try stepping down and right up past 4 bolts. No more than 5.8 and think those are better placed.
Maybe if enough folks get up there it will help keep these old routes clean(er).
hurt feelings
in Spray
Posted
Thanks Oly, my point but better spoken. ^^ Here ya go Drew. ^^
xoxo