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Toast

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Posts posted by Toast

    Webbing Seat Harness

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Hey Old Timers,

     

    A long time ago, I was taught to tie a seat harness made from knots and 1" webbing. Can somebody refresh my memory? I want to take a buddy out climbing and don't have a spare harness that will fit him.

     

    From what I remember, I tied two figure eights on a bite for leg loops. One end was long enough to wrap around me once, the other was long enough to wrap around me twice, thus, the knot would have at least a wrap around the body. I think I would just tie the two ends off with a water knot, but a rewoven figure eight is what I remember. Think it makes a difference?

    MSR MIOX water purifier

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Katadyn Micropur tabs contain the same active ingredient that the Miox produces (i.e. chlorine dioxide.) They're a lot smaller and lighter and don't require batteries. Cost is about $0.50 per quart, but if you're a backcountry ranger or somebody who spends a lot of time drinking stream water, the Miox is probably cheaper in the long run.

    what to buy when bulding a new rack up....

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Pick up a set of quickdraws with biners you like and a bunch of 9/16 climb spec webbing cut to 5' lengths. About a dozen of each will do. The dogbone draws more or less come free for the price of the biners, and you can swap them out for single slings when you climb alpine. Add a set of nuts and curved hexes, and you'll have a pretty good dirtbag start. Even if you have the dough for cams, passive pro will come in handy and is a good way to stretch the dollar. If you have the dough, swap out some of the webbing for sewn spectra slings. If you still have some dough left over, you can buy me a drink bigdrink.gif

     

    Specific recommendations in order:

    - HB Offset nuts

    - Metolius Curve Hexes

    - BD Camalots 0.5 - 2.0

    - Metolius TCU's

    - BD Camalot 3.0 & 4.0

    Warning: Japaneese Gardens

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Toast, isn't JAP just a lazy way to shorten the word "Japanese"? How is that a racial slur?

     

    Yeah, the route's name is Japanese Gardens and was named by Dave Page who had the FA. I suppose there are enough lazy fucks out there calling it Jap Gardens that the rest of you don't know any better.

     

    If you don't think Jap is a racial slur, maybe you ought to ask your in-laws what they were called in the 1940's, whether all of their possessions were sold off at pennies on the dollar, whether they were hauled away into wartime prison camps in the middle of the desert, whether they found "No Japs Welcome" signs painted all over the city of Seattle when they came back after the war. I don't think they'll like hearing the word Jap, but I suspect they'll appreciate your interest in asking what they went through.

    Good routes for beginners

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by Toast

    Pick up a copy of the Mountaineers Basic or Intermediate Climbs Guides. They list a bunch of easy climbs in the Cascades and Olympics. That said, here's a few off Hwy 20.

     

    Cutthroat - S Butress

    South Early Winters Spire - S Arete

    Black Peak - NE Ridge

    Kangaroo Temple - not sure route name

    Burgandy Spire - East Face (I think)

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