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Toast

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    Quality

    in Spray

    Posted

    46% of american women own at least one vibrator, according to Harpers Index.

     

    I introduced 46% of my ex-girlfriends to them... then I found myself single again cry.gif

    Basic Climbing Courses

    in Newbies

    Posted · Edited by Toast

    Okay, so most of you already climb, but what if you're a Newbie?

     

    Have you wondered how to get started climbing, where to get the skills to climb mountain peaks, or wondered what's involved in Basic climbing courses in the area? These courses provide a structured introduction to alpine climbing. They're not for everybody, but they might be for you.

     

    I'll be putting on a primer to Basic Climbing Courses at the Alderwood and Seattle REI stores in November and December. I'll cover the skills we teach, how these courses are structured, and what's involved. We will have representatives from the WAC, BOEALPS, Bushwackers, OSAT and the Everett Mountaineers available to answer questions.

     

    The dates are:

     

    REI Alderwood: November 16 at 7:00 PM

    REI Seattle: December 8 at 7:00 PM

     

    Pass this onto your friends who might be interested wave.gif

    Rappel trick - Save a cam?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by Toast

    I think I'd be less concerned about the cam and more concerned about the biner. The biner is stiff all around and is probably going to take hard impacts all the way down. The cam has lots of springy/bendy stuff. It'd have to impact in just the right orientation for it to take the same hard impact.

     

    Guys in Yosemite make a business collecting pro at the bottom of cliffs and peddling it at Camp 4. I might buy a cam for cheap cheap, but I don't think I'd buy a biner.

    Crackima good and bad

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    I dunno, Shizzy, I probably wouldn't have ventured out to Goose Egg Mountain without Yoder's beta. We drove out there Friday morning, climbed lots of routes at RC and the Oasis, Rode the Lightning on Saturday, and got bit by Ed's rope eating crack at the Bend today. Had to cut off about 12' from a nearly brand new Mammut bi-weave sixty cry.gif But all in all it was good. In fact, it was great. The weather was perfect, we only ran into one climbing party all weekend, and to top it off, all the routes were new to me.

     

    I give Crackima thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

    How much to tip a guide?

    in Spray

    Posted

    How much should I tip my RMI guide on my summit climb this week?

    Or another way of saying it:

    How grateful should I be to my guide for helping to haul my sorry ass up the side of a big-ass mountain? confused.gif

     

    You might want to think of this more in terms of how grateful you'll be if he/she saves your ass from getting hurt. I'm met a few guides, and most know their shit and have been very helpful even though I wasn't a client. In general, they don't get paid very well, and they do it because they love their sport and sharing that love with a newb like you. Keep in mind the guide outfit gets most of the fees you pay. My $0.02, I wouldn't feel bad about tipping them well.

    Princely Ambitions Rap

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I didn't realize this beforehand, but it's helpful to have a second rope for a double rope rappel off the first pitch of this route. There is an intermediary rap station to the left about 25 meters down, but for a number of reasons I really didn't like it.

     

    Anyway, a heads up.

    Flaws on the BLACK DIAMOND SHADOW 45

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I'm seriously thinking about picking up the Shadow 55 for use as a summer and winter mountaineering pack.

     

    Does the 3300 cui hold enough for 2 or three overnighters (summer and winter)? I have a habit of packing as possible so I would assume so.

     

    Also, is the fabric strong enough to take scrapes and rubs from rock and tools? Had any problem with rips or punctures?

     

    I used the 55 this week for a three day trip up to Dorado Needle and Eldorado(rock/glacier.) It was just big enough for me. I stuffed a rope inside but had to strap my helmet on the outside. I had space to spare, though. I could have overpacked a few things, used the spindrift collar and extended up the top lid if I needed to. For winter, though, that might be tough (more food, more clothes, bottle of booze...)

     

    I have a few pin pricks showing and a scuff or two, but burlier material = more weight. For the most part, I really like the Shadow 55.

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