Toast
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Posts posted by Toast
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Index tavern RIP. somebody buy the place and reopen it.
How about the Class H Liquor License hidden away in the back room of the Index Cafe?
Also, there's a dive bar buried deep in the little town of Snoqualmie. Their back yard is dog friendly in the summer.
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skiied what babe? They opend with 12" at the base and 26" up top
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225 Lbs static load is about equivalent to 1 kN force. If your body weight 180 lbs and have another 30 lbs of boots, clothing, gear and water, your weight alone is about that limit. Take a fall... snap. Rig a 2 or 3 to one mechanical for rescue... snap. I think you get the picture.
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Climb: Hibox Peak-SE Ridge
Date of Climb: 11/28/2004
Trip Report:
Last week the stars aligned with good weather and a day off. I was itching to get out and Klenke had a "plan." Normally, that means he had an anthill full of brush in mind to climb, but Hibox turned out to be one of the best climbs of the year. We made it to the trailhead with barely a dusting of snow. About a mile and a half on well groomed trail took us to a clearing with a good view of the peak. It's a frequented scramble in the summer, so there's a climber's path... we managed to miss it. The route up dodges left and threads through cliff bands. There were a few traverses over rock glazed in ice, at least in the morning. As we made our way to the summit block we ran into snow deep enough to wade through. The pictures on Summitpost don't show it, but there's good quality rock hidden at the top. We traversed counter clockwise passing two apparent gulleys to get to a 3rd class path up to the summit.
Gear Notes:
Ixe Axe
Approach Notes:
Take the Rachel Lake trail about 2 miles in. Look for a brushy clearing. A climbers path up the SW ridge will take you up to the summit base. Traverse right to the SE side and head up 3rd class terrain.
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I just got word from Jon that fixes are on the way, but they're still working on the site upgrade. Thanks for working on the site guys
We'll see you at the SausageFest
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Hey Jon/Timmy,
I wanted to make a donation, but you got a broken link on THIS PAGE that needs to get fixed first. When you click the little BUTTON you get this:
Warning: main(../main.inc.php): failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/.gumnut/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/mypaymentpal/mypaymentpal.php on line 20
Fatal error: main(): Failed opening required '../main.inc.php' (include_path='.:/usr/local/lib/php') in /home/.gumnut/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/mypaymentpal/mypaymentpal.php on line 20
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At first I tought you were talking about Klenke's Pinky
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Yep, it's an overlooked gem come springtime, steep snow, rock finish, lots of exposure, good views, easy access. You can't ask for much more, but as Chelle mentions, don't fall.
http://sverdina.com/mcclellans_butte/mcbutte1.htm
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Post deleted by Toast
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Hmmm... I think you do
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John Long's Advanced Climbing book mentions a way to bail off a sport route without having to leave anything behind (if you're less than 1/3 rope out.) You essentially rap off a sling run through the bolt with one end tied to the rope. I won't go into it here, the details are important, but it's a pretty cool trick.
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Anybody have any info on OSAT or contacts to that group?
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Are you a newbie interested in a comprehensive introduction to alpine climbing? While they catch a lot of flack on this board, structured programs like the Basic climbing courses offered by the Mountaineers, Boeing Alpine Society, Washington Alpine Club, and the new Bushwhacker Climbing Club are a good way to get introduced to climbing.
These classes are typically run once a year and combine classroom and field learning. The time commitment is not inconsequential. However, there is a lot of material covered, and if you've never traveled off trail, crossed a glacier, or roped up for an alpine rock climb, you'll be glad we cover the material we do. They're not for everybody, but they may be right for you. Come see.
I am putting on a slide presentation at REI that cover what these Basic climbing courses are, the skills they cover and what a new student can expect. The slides will be from the program I help with, the Everett Mountaineers, but I'll try to be fair about talking generically around Basic climbing programs in general. If you help with one of the other programs (BOALPS, WAC, Seattle Mountaineers or the Bushwhackers,) PM Me. You're welcome to show and help answer questions.
Wednesday, December 1st
7:00 PM at the new Alderwood REI Store
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Lake Twentytwo right by Pilchuck is a good easy hike.
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Stefan, Klenke, Vegetablebelay and a few other all stars made it out to the Chelan Sawtooths this weekend. I only managed to tag Gray and Oval, but Stefan and Greg were super-he-men and tagged Courtney and Buttermilk Saturday night before coming back to camp. There was a foot and a half of freshies and blue skies both days (cold and nasty Saturday night, though.)
We even managed to stop by Twisp to say hi to Uncle Tricky
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When it breaks.
You need to remember the 6 fall rating is the number of falls it took your rope to break in the UIAA test...
Actually, six falls is the minimum, and these tests are extreme in nature. However, if you're feeling a bit squeamish, I suggest you give your rope to me
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Stolen from the New York Times.
Squirrels might be viewed as rats with good public relations.
While fathers and sons hunt this weekend, wives and daughters shop in Baton Rouge, 70 miles to the east, or in Lafayette, 45 miles to the south. But some women cannot resist the woods, including Alycia McDaniel, the homecoming queen at Pine Prairie High. "Excitement rushes through your body when you see a squirrel and you say, 'I've got to shoot it,' " she said.
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See Gary's post on Kyes Peak. It's a goodie. You'll probably want a second tool, though. It gets steep in places and there'll be hard glacial ice underneath the snow that fell recently. Sloan Peak is another one to consider.
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Climb: Guye Peak-Improbable Traverse
Date of Climb: 9/24/2004
Trip Report:
Klenke and I climbed Guye Peak on Friday. It was fun route and a glorious day for it. Guye itself is good looking peak from the highway, but it has neither 2000' of prominence nor much bushwhacking involved, so I was doubtful that this'd peak Klenke's interest. Noentheless, Paul took the bait, and we set off from the road about 9:00. The talus approach wasn't bad till we hit scree at the very top. I can't say we set any land speed records, but we made good time scrambling up to Lunch Ledge after a short detour up the wrong chute and a traverse further to the left.
Approach Hint: veer slightly leftward at the very tip of the talus field. Beckey's CAG doesn't mention anything about burrowing into any bushes, but Klenke disappeared into the first bush to cross our path and miraculously popped out just above the traverse to get to the Lunch Ledge. That boy's like a pig after truffles when it comes to brush and the quickest path to an objective.
I took off from Lunch Ledge with a bad inkling to take the wrong variation. We could have pulled it off, but I didn't have any big pro, and one slip would have led to burnt Toast. After an eternity, I backed off and edged my way out the thin ledge better known as the Improbable Traverse. Sure enough there was a knife blade stuck in a thin crack just where you need it. Cracks are few and far between, so options for pro's kinda sketch. A little further out there was a more dubious looking pin just out of reach. A slight shift of foot got me to where I needed to be, and it was a piece of cake after that. There wasn't much to set a belay anchor with, but I slung two nubs of rock horn, hung my ass out and belayed Klenke across. Traverses are twice the fun as the follower is subject to the same pendulum exposure as the leader.
Klenke wasn't satisfied with his lead up the ramps and the easy prospect of the next pitch, so he opted for a face climb variation beside the class 3 route. It had one little bush sticking out of the rock, so I figure that's what drew him that way. It turned out to be a fun little pitch at 5.7ish. We kiwi coiled up for the short trot to the next pitch which seemed to have nice footsteps and handholds chiseled out the whole way up. The final pitch convinced me that Guye Peak deserves better than the total disregard most seem to have for it. All in all, I'd say it's good stuff with exposure, good views and options for variations all over the place.
Gear Notes:
Light alpine rack with lots of double slings to minimize drag. One #4 cam would have come in handy for the wrong variation mentioned above (we didn't go that way, though.)
Approach Notes:
Veer left at the top of the talus field. Bring a copy of the photo image in the Brown Beckey guide. That come in real handy.
There's no snow (at least right now) and a clear trail down from the north peak summit to Cave Ridge and down.... pretty hard to get lost.
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Sloan Corkscrew - the approach via Sloan Creek had a major avalanche that took out a good half mile of the trail two years ago. Not sure if detour has been cut around it since. If not, be prepared to scramble across loose logs and avalanche debris.
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I've been reading Long's How to Rock Climb and he describes the different types of falls but doesn't go into as much detail as I'd like when he describes 1) How they happen, and 2) How to (hopefully) avoid injury when falling. Rope position and the positioning of your appendages seems to make a huge difference, at least according to the book. Can you guys take this one step further and tell us Newb the TYPES of falls, and HOW to take them, and WHEN they occur?
Actually, Long's short chapter on falling talks exactly about how to avoid injury when falling. In short, stay relaxed and in control. Stay facing the rock to avoid tumbling.
The point at the top of the thread was to avoid letting the rope get behind a leg when veering off to one direction when on lead (see the first picture.) If the climber were to fall, his right foot could be caught behind the rope and flip him over like the guy in the second picture. To avoid this, step back over the rope so that the ROPE is between you and the rock. It can feel awkward, and typically the rope doesn't do this on its own, but it's safer if you get in the habit of keeping the rope between you and the rock.
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The way the pole is set up, I'd suspect the same folks that checked off basic vertical skills are the same folks that checked off crevasse rescue and escape the belay. That means that roughly 2/3 of you don't have these skills/don't practice them... scary.
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There's a rough rule of thumb that every 25 foot increase in elevation corresponds to a drop of about one millibar of pressure. I'm not quite sure what the conversion is to inches mercury, though.
Walkable Crusts
in Climber's Board
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I take this all personally