Kevin_Ristau

Xmas party weekend - my wife's office party on Friday - dinner cruise up to PoCo and Deep Cove. Kid's skating party on Saturday, and a birthday party today at GoBananas - at least I got to climb in the jungle gym!

Sounds like a nice FA. Glad to hear that you will leave it boltless.

5.10 is my limit, both trad leading on the rock and in the gym. I do not have the strength or the technique to climb harder grades. If I climbed more consistently and trained specifically for climbing, I am positive that I could improve my ability in the gym. I think it would be a slower amd more difficult process to try and improve my grades on the rock. I was able to improve my trad leading by doing a lot of gear placing, to the point where I am confident in my ability to protect a route. I them rationalized to myself that I can climb 5.10, and I can protect it, so therefore I can lead it. I basically forced myself up routes this way, and my confidence has followed. I think that DFA had it right when he talked about being pumped as a mental problem more than a physical one. Climb with better climbers, or if your partners are at the same level, get competitive and push each other. Develop confidence in your ability to protect routes, and don't worry about using the gear if you are trying to advance, the clean ascents will come with time.

I have the Marmot Precip. It works well, is light and packs down nicely into its chest pocket. The lightweights are all a bit of a compromise.

GPS technology is of no use in a burial situation. The GPS signal sent from orbit is very weak and incapable of penetrating a snowpack. In fact, signals can be blocked by tree cover.

The range at which a beacon can pick up a signal is influenced by the orientation of the two antennas ( sending and receiving). The advertised range is usually a "best case" scenario involving two beacons of the same manufacture - there are differences in their signals. Practice, experience, and technique are what enable fast and efficient searches. Having said that, I use an SOS F1-ND. Analog, with a stated range of 90m. Simple to use, good signal strength indicator, forced "on" harness and a panic switch in case you are caught in an avalanche while searching.

On sunday there was a metre of snow at the top end of Red Heather meadows, about a 18 inches at the hut. Snow was falling heavily, but the freezing level is expected to rise for the next week or two.

My dog loves to go hiking, and makes a great companion on solo days. She starts to poop out at about 20 km, 25 km would probably be her maximum. That is something you have to take into consideration. I do take her cragging, if I am going with a group where there will be somebody able to keep an eye on her. The breed makes a difference in temperament, but more important is the socialising and obedience.

Dehydrating your own food is a great way to go. I have had great success with corn, ground beef, and apple slices. Other veggies can be dehydrated as well but don't always taste the same after they have been reconstituted. Not bad, they will have a slightly rubbery texture. Rice makes for excellent, low bulk, light meals. Combine with ground beef and a handful of veggies. Curry spice will disguise some pretty bqd cooking.

1995 Toyota T-100 4wd, canopy, a/c and a cd player. I still dream about Landcruisers.

It is not necessarily the type of route, but the experience of the climb. Some days, everything clicks. You climb with confidence and style, the route eats pro and seemingly goes on forever. Of course, epics are far more memorable and make much better war stories.

Does anybody know where I can try on Dynafit Toutlite Tech Boots? MEC and Coast Mountain do not appear to be carrying them anymore. I am north of the border, so Vancouver area locations would be preferable.