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Everything posted by pu
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Looking for a topo for this route. Nobody on da east side of the state has Sky Valley Rock available. Is the Rock Climbing Washington topo accurate? Thanks for the help.
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Anyone up for a day of rock on monday at bank's or farther east. Sport, trad, boulder? I can be at bank's by 10:30 a.m.
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Anyone up for some longer rock? I heard a rumor that WA pass was opening this week. Anyone else here the same? Either way I'm up for rock climbing. I am in spokane and would rather go to blodgett if anyone wants to come this way. PM me.
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Hey S@#ttalker. Would you please deliver me a topo of McClellan like you said you would. jandslindATPeoplepc.com Take care
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I think so. I've been in the EXP for this ice season and I love them. It's not like they get replaced every year.
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It's not hard. Consider joining the Spokane Mountaineers. NYC007 is a member, he can give you all sorts of beta.
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The picks on the Monsters are replaceable and there have been rumblings about making a thinner water ice pick for these tools as well.
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So, I am at the local gym the other night and it is kids climbing team practice. Little fockers were everywhere. Point being, I noticed a group of youngsters probably half a dozen ages 8-12, over by the campus board. Their coach was helping them campus and encouraging them to campus on their own. WTF. This doesn't seem like a good idea. Any thoughts on it?
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The notion that you must live in Spokane to give a damn about what goes on seems rather odd. For all we know Dane's ego could be what our solar system revolve's around. Does it matter? I believe that the issues are what matters. Bolting holds on the rock so that someone without the skills or strength can do the move seems as preposterous to me as paving the Snow Creek trail into the enchantments so that everyone can enjoy the wilderness. As far as ego's go. IMO there is nothing wrong with an ego. It seems that it occasionally takes somebody with one to get stuff done. This may burst many of your bubbles but climbing is a very Macho sport and egotistical climbers are not an exception. I have worked in the gear industry for awhile and have spoken with many self proclaimed hard men/women. Rumr, are you suggesting that Dane wants to be nominated Grand Czar of climbing? Maybe Dane wants to take over the world and control the rate at which we revolve around his ego? It doesn't matter really. What matters are the issues of bolting holds onto climbs that are future testpieces and bolting easily protected cracks. Is establishing an ethic for an area a bad thing? Is recognizing that an ethic HAS ALREADY BEEN ESTABLISHED IN AN AREA wrong? I have not yet seen this Rock and Ice ad. Maybe it was a little over the top. Maybe the quote was dumb. Who cares? Do You?
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I have been climbing on mammut ropes for awhile. I dig them. Triodess is currently a black marking on the rope and not a braid change. My triodess has been holding up fine. As far as impact force goes, I would take a look at the numbers for yourself. I was comparing an infinity 9.5 to a Beal the other day and the mammut had lower kn's. However, as far as BW goes. I have owned two different BW ropes and the damn things were so kinky from factory to retirement that they wouldn't have been suitable for a rope mat.
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I have a pair of the Raichle 90 degree EXP. They are comfortable and seem to fit me well. They climb water ice great. I would say that they are similar to sportiva Nepal in overall beef, but they have a slightly softer upper than the Nepals so they offer a little more dexterity. I was also impressed with their walking comfort. I did the DC with them in August and they walked great. AS far as the 90 Degree GTX goes. I have worn them and they climb Vert ice ok. If you were looking for a boot strictly for vertical water ice then I would consider some other options. However, they are an excellent choice for general mountaineering and for steep alpine ice. Comparable to Sportiva Lhotse's or the old Technica Altitude plus.
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I have been using a pair. Very supportive, aka not sensitive. Would be a good alpine shoe. Seems to be lasted more like their approach shoes than a rock shoe. Edges ok, very comfy. No good on overhanging terrain. Pretty nice in hand/fist sized cracks.
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Hmmm, let's say I go climbing at way honed area with my new Raveltek tools and I break a pick. How many stores do you think I will have to go to in order to acquire a spare pick for my off brand tools while on my roadtrip. They are cheaper and they do climb similar to Quarks. I suggest that if you choose to purchase them you stock up on accessories so you have stuff when your local shop decides to drop the line.
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Climb: Rainier-DC Date of Climb: 8/18/2004 Trip Report: DC is in good shape. Lot's of guided groups on route. RMI has to different routes wanded through the portion above the cleaver. The climbers left will be melted out soon while the climbers right may persist for a couple weeks.
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Maybe Iconoclast on the SCW for any interested westsidaz.
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Who's up for a day trip on Friday. Do FF and something else. PM Me.
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Where are you coming from? I would be very interested. Which route do you want to do on the perch?
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Seeing how I started climbing in the early nineties that would be how I screwed it up. I follow dihedral up to where it narrows and cruise right onto the top of Razor's edge. Thanks for the info. It is a great way to finish the dihedral.
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Who wants to climb today in Spokane or Post Falls. I'll be going tomorrow, thursday, as well. Trad or Sport. PM me.
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Don Q, Dihedral with Step Left of Boston finish.
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I'd have to agree. Free Friends is probably the best one. However, as far as link ups go. A good moderate way to get to the top would be E Face Direct to the South prow, then cross over to Fun roof on the big ledge for your finish. Mix up the scenery a bit and never get too hard. Dane, Maybe when you come over for Fulton's reception you can make your trip to the 'Kirks for the summer.
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Fearless leader is good, as well as the Death Fall area. However, I really enjoy No Pryer Experience. Very clean face. Continuous difficulty.....all the way to the chains.
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Sure Pindude, I could elaborate on the ways that spokane is lacking. First, I am frequently spotted in the kan at two particular locations. The first being a local gear shop and the second being the crags. The climbing is good. Also, a positive note about spokane is that the citizens are concerned about there health. For example, on a given day I can find about a half dozen condoms and a couple needles at Minne. This is good because it shows that the safe sex message has really sunk in and the IV drug users are not reusing their needles. Spokane as a city tends to have a negative vibe. This starts with the leadership of the city. Council members who can't get along and like to sue each other. Mayors that can't get re elected. A city that can't take care of its infrastructure. I choose to live in Cd'a because the air is clean, even during an inversion. The city leadership has a common goal and the city is well taken care of. There is a lot of good climbing here, in town and close to town. Also, there is not a mountaineering club that is named after Cd'A. Although, you would think there was because they are always over here in the local pubs of Cd'A and at the local crags, bitching about idahoans as they use all of our recreational resources. Spokane is good for a lot of things. The only time there is culture in Cd'A is during the summer when both playhouses are in full swing and there is free live music every week, weekend art or craft festivals, you know the usual lame shit. Good things about spokane- Lots of climbing and skiing, not world class but VERY good. Cheap place to live. Not many people gettin' out there, but just enough. Local Mounties org is a good one with only a couple exceptions. Their names I know by heart. Not you Pindude. Close to Cd'A. All things considered, if you are a professional or skilled you will be able to find a job in the Kan that pays a decent wage. That wage will be enough to live on in the area. I would choose to live in the Kan as opposed to the west side any day.
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The climbing sucks and there isn't much of it. You don't want to climb over here. Seriously though, Spokanites can sometimes be very negative about there city because it is lacking in many ways. However, there is a lot of climbing and skiing and not so many people doing it. Folks like to complain about the Kan but they just keep coming back after brief stints to the west side.
