JoshK

Yeah, SkiSports lived there during school but he's back in Seattle for the summer now. Actually, more to the point, the lucky bastard is in yosemite through memorial day.

The pro weighs 100g less, for whatever that's worth.

Yeha, I have my dynafits cranked as high as they will go. In fact, on terrain where a fall would be deadly, I actually lock the front of the binding into touring mode so that I basically can't release unless I really torque the thing. i suppose a busted knee is better than having a ski pop off on a horribly steep slope. BTW, how does it take 10 minutes to get into dynafits? They certainly aren't as fast as heavier bindings, but it never really takes me more than 30 or 40 seconds even if they are being a pain in the ass.

Hmm, nope, he's right...asscroft is a fucking jackass.

Does anybody else find mounteverest.net a complete wankfest?

Cradle-robber... Well done!

SO JOSH WERE YA SCARED UP THERE, SINCE IT WAS YER FIRST TIME? DONT WORRY I AM SURE STEBBI WAS GENTLE AT 1ST!!!! No, I was talking about Dalius. But you are still a sick bastard.

I fell your pain man. I also seem to have trouble leaving expensive electronics on the top of cars.

Dalius s too! Talk about trial by fire for a guy's first real experience with mixed and crappy snow&ice climbing!

How much of the crapscadian coulior is still skiable? the top portions looked awesome.

Yeah, man, we made it....finally. If you can believe it, it took us another 6 or 7 hours or some such from when we saw you guys on top. the conditions were incredibly nasty to say the least. *everything* required excavation and the rime "ice" was all completely worthless. some pitches required hours of clearing. the only good side was the weather really didn't get bad...just cold. I was good meeting you guys and thanks for the nice easy to follow path back to the sherpa!

So, would a good example be the GPS that Joshk got from REI and then threw away on Mine Road cos he didn't know how to use it? It was mail-ordered dipshit.

It's gonna be terrible in there. I'd really recommend all parties stay away from the stuart range this weekend. Your time would be better spent cragging or hiking with your aunt.

A weekend warrior, IMHO, is your typical REI shopping wanker who gets out maybe a few weekends a year tops. If you climb every single weekend (i.e. 2 out of every 7 days) you are still doing pretty well in my book.

I've noticed the exact same thing, Mark. This winter was particularly odd in that it snowed almost none below 2500 or 3000 feet. Then between 3000 adn 4500 or so there seemed to be less than average. The higher you got, it seemed, the snow pack seemed closer to normal. I'm hoping this will mean roads melting out quicker, with the high alpine choss and skree continuing to be covered with snow for a while.

Yeah, it's direct. I'd say one glissade would get you back down to camp in, what, I dunno, 15 or 20 seconds?

I might be dense, but it seems to me that a fall just *before* the clip is gonna have the same result no matter how the hell you attach the rope to the piece...meaning that particular piece is going to do no good.

The more specialized your gear getss, the less circumstances under which it can be used. This is why I call bullshit on wanker stuff like this. I'd rather keep it simple and be able to carry as little gear as possible and do as many things as possible with it.

Somehow I find the act of politicians simply being politicians a *lot* less scary than a single party using federal agencies to accomplish political ends. One may be annoying, but it perfectly legal. The other than is completely illegal.

BWAHAHAHAH...dipshit.

I assumed Matt was referring to the decent down the Sherpa glacier, not the ascent of the ice cliff. I cannot imagine choosing to go *down* the ice cliff glacier in september, other than by accident.

Also, while not it's intended use, I can't count the number of times I've been able to sling a horn and use my extra long (12 feet, doubled) spectra cordalette to aid in tricky downclimbing. Although making up for being a sucky climber is probably not the prime reason to decide on an anchor building helper.

I dunno, a plain on cordelette/webolette seems a hellavu lot more versitile than me. I've gernally found getting and setting good placements to take more time than the equalization of the pieces with my cordelette.

Maybe I misunderstood your wording PP, but Jim Nelson writes the Selected Climbs series, not Beckey. Both guys