MtnBoy

Climbed the Middle Sister, North Ridge yesterday and had a great time. Drove out friday night via Eugene, which is faster and shorter than to go via salem. 242 is still closed a few miles to the north of the obsidian trail head, but it is clear from the south. We left the trail head at 6:15 and humped up the trail. The moring was a little hazy with the smoke from the fires. We reached the summit at 1:00 and back down to the cars at 6:45. Some what confused route finding, and next time I would follow the trail up by Arrow lake, following the ridge line up to the long snow field which drops you right at the base of the trail to the summit. Gear: too much, ice axe is nice to play on the snow fields but not necessary. Would really recomend treking poles for the scree slog and snow. Forgot my liners and trashed feet. Hike Up The trail from the saddle to sumit The Summit looking at North Sister Decent towards arrow lake. Note forest fires in back ground http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/512/2432DSC_1315-med.JPG Trashed my feet

McKenzie Highway #242 is closed by forest fire from milepost 76 (west end) and milepost 87 (east end, near the Cold Springs cut-off. This will effect your access into the north and middle sister. http://www.bendweekly.com/Local-News/689.html

Story to consider. This comes from the Deschutes SAR. It was a cold and rainy day at smith, and some of the dirt baggers were bored. One spoke up and indicated that it would be neat to take a huge wipper off of the train bridge over the Crooked River George. We'll he goes out there and set up and anchor in the middle and readies himself. The plan was to take the ride and jumar back up. Down he goes for the 150 ft ride and proceedes to break his ribs. In pain he hooks the jumars up to the rope to find it is too painful to climb up, so there he dangles. Luckily some passing motorists take pitty on the poor soul and calls the cops. The SAR ends up having to come out and winch his butt back up and carry him out.

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Sorry about that, I have not posted many pics The fire is burning in the basin to the East of Mt. Washington and on Sat. was burining up slope toward the mountain for most of the day. The winds were taking the smoke to the South West and the summit was obsured for most of the day. Personnaly I would not want to be inhailing smoke on route all day, especially since there are many other fine climbs around. The fire guys were bombing the crap out of the fire and provide great entertainment. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=20485&size=big&sort=1&cat=512

Was up on Middle Sister this weekend and got a good view of the fire going up the Eastern flanks of Mt. Washington.

Due to some fabric supply snaffu OR is selling it's current Gore Tex Alpine Bivy from the Seattle Store ($199), and then in Sept. will send you another free O charge. The new one will have the most advanced Gore Tex Product (vapor wanker fabric). The guys at the store told me about it, and when it arrived, it had a semi offical card on it explaining the whole deal. I bought one for my wife and I'll use the second when it arrives. Look out for my old one on the yard sale. Cheers

Thanks for the Beta Jim, I also found these links that look pretty good. I'll put them up so that more infor is availble. http://alavigne.net/newHomePage/Outdoors/TripReports/ViaFerrata/index.jsp?navpage=intro Cheers, Mtnboy

True, but: 1. I don't want to schlep 25 lbs of gear all over europe. 2. I want to take my wife, and she is not up for multi pitch. I am hoping this would be a good introduction and get her excited about it. Thanks for the reply

I am going to be in Europe the last week in september and first week in Oct. I am looking to fly down to italy for a few days and get some via ferrata's under my belt. Any suggestions? I am looking to get from the venice airport to one central location so I don't have to rent a car. I would love to hear your stories. Thanks

Never a problem going north. All the canadians care about is guns and booze. Coming home is another matter. I am as wholesome as they come and have learned always to keep my mouth shut and don't challenge the authority. If they ask to search the car, say "sure, problem". The two times they have asked, and not followed through. If they ask for fruit or vegetables, give them a positive respons such as "we got rid of them at the last garbage can". This makes it look like you have your stuff together. It sucks to have to deal with it, but its the government. Cheers,

Don't support the fee system. Easiest way to defeat the system is don't participate. What do the fees pay for? Rescue, no the county does that. Trail maintenance, what is your NW forest pass for. The only decernable addition to the mountain are anoying ticket takers posing as rangers who only check your permit. It is absolutely rediculous that snow mobilers are able to go to the rim with out fee and to walk you have to pay. Vote with your skis by only summiting during the off, non-fee, season. Fight the man

I got bored reading all the rehash of subaru, toyota and tdi, so I am just jumping in. In short you need a quiver. For long range paved approach I go with the Golf TDI. For the short range high clearence / gravel I go with the 92 4 runner with a 4 banger under the hood. For the exbedition and stay awhile it has to be the ford f250 4x4 with the alaskan camper. If I was limited to one, I would first of all buy used which drastically reduces your insurance and offsets any fuel costs. I prefer heavier vehicles due to deer and auto accidents which happen when you drive in the woods and in inclimate weather. Personnaly my chevy took 2 deer hits which would have put my passenger in the hospital. So think safety also. For used I would buy a used toyota tacoma with a 4 cylinder. The engine is economical (20's hwy) and will run for ever and you can configure the bed for secure gear storage and sleeping. For new I would consider a diesel jeep liberty for good gas miledge and versitility. Order it with out all the crap on it and they can be had for the same range as a toyota truck of semi loaded subaru.

Here is a picture from last weekend showing the headwall and snow dome on the right

Thanks, but I was thinking between Astoria and Longview.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows of any climbing or bouldering areas out of Longview or in the Lower Columbia Gorge? Thanks

Is the gate to the trail head locked?

In the PDX area, Madrone Wall and Rocky Butte in the past were both operated as quarries. Imagin them with about 150 ft of scree slope removed leaving 300 ft of free standing cliff remaining. Multi Pitch Baby. This would satisfy the county's need for rock and improve a recreational resource.

A lot of local craigs are nice and steep due to the quarry efforts in the past. What about buying and operating a quarry in such a way as to create a great climbing park at the close of the quarry. What would be left would be prime for a recreational park and generate income and provide recreation. This way multiple users could be happy.

A couple of points, 1. Television reports are worthless for educational purposes since they are intended for entertainment of the massess enthralled with televsion picutures "live from the summit". The primary focus of the story is getting out the latest word and footage in time for the 6 or 11 news. No education. 2. PMR does a good job of accident analysis and usually writes up a report on their web site. Additionally the climbing rangers often give pretty good hazardous condition assessment and posts it in the registry. 3. The best tools are the critiiques of the climbers and rescuers themselves that often get written up in the annual AAA accidents guide. 4. Resources such as Cascade Climbers is a great venue for education for the intended audience. This give good experience to aspiring climber so that when they have to make an important decision, they have more than their own experience to draw from. My 2 cents

So what can we do to help the situation with the nesting and the rockfall condition. Are there any work parties schedualed where we can help clear the rock and make it safe for everyone? How about optimisin nesting location in non climbed areas to encourage nesting in a manageable location? Just want to be proactive.

24' with a red leash.

Has anyone been up in the last few days? How is the snow in the bottle neck? Cheers

Hello and salutations, I would strongly consider not even doing Hood in August. As the preceeding comments have made quite clear there is real objective hazard in climbing at that time of year, and unless you are practiced in glacier travel or dodging scree you might not find it enjoyable. A great alternative would to do more of a walk-up climb where you would get the same sumit experience without the extra hazard and gear that otherwise would be necessary. I would suggest the south side of Mt. Adams or the South Sister, both of which are quite accessible and would not require rope nor protection. Both of the trailheads are app. 3 to 4 hours from portland (vs. 1.5hr for hood)and both climbs are asthetically beautiful. My 2 cents

Hello, I am starting a family and probably won't be on any expeditions in the near future, so I am selling the expedition pack. I used it on two trips and it is in perfect condition. It is 3 years old and despritely needs some high altitude loving. The harness is size large and the pack is 7000 cu in. Cheers You can reach me at bohaboy@comcast.net