Thinker

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "To scramble around on a few little rocks is not, of course, the same as mountaineering." - Lionel Terray describing Fontainebleau c. 1948 "Bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing" - Ron Kauk c. 1990 Who was right? This also assumes that mountaineering is equivalent to climbing. That's simply not true. When's the last time you were able to practice self-arrest or crampon technique on a boulder? And to echo an earlier post, when's the last time you used your toothbrush on a rock while mountaineering? IMHO, mountaineering can (and usually does) involve climbing, but is much more comprehensive than simply climbing.

I've found that communication usually isn't a problem. But, when it us, there's usually enough rope drag that tugging on the rope is a hopelessly inept way to communicate. I generally go with the 'when the rope comes up tight, give em a minute and start disassembling the anchor' routine, making sure to watch that slack in the rope continues to be pulled in. Still, there are those times when you just never REALLY know what's going on up/down there. The accident above makes that point dramacally (and tragically).

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "To scramble around on a few little rocks is not, of course, the same as mountaineering." - Lionel Terray describing Fontainebleau c. 1948 I think he was REALLY talking about the blight he saw coming that we now affectionately (or otherwise) call sprot climbing....... [ 08-15-2002, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

There are some surprisingly good limestone sprot (yes, SPROT) routes in Hell's Canyon on the Idaho Oregon border. I've climbed on limestone there and in South Dakota, Kansas, Cali, Missouri, Costa Blanca (Spain)....good routes on good limestone are fun. A whole different world without the friction we're used to in the PacNW.

quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: I thought Canary was 5.9? I think it depends on which guidebook you're looking at. Disclaimer: I have neither of mine at work with me today.

I was catching up on the NPS Morning Reports http://www.nps.gov/morningreport/ today and ran across this one: quote: 02-343 - Rocky Mountain NP (CO) ? Rescue On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21st, rangers received a report of a seriously injured climber in the westernmost area of Lumpy Ridge, a popular rock climbing area. A 32-year-old Loveland man had fallen nearly 100 feet after leading a portion of a 5.11 climb on Sundance Buttress. According to his climbing partner, the fall, which occurred at the top of the first pitch, was caused by a communication breakdown between the two climbers. A total of 30 people from the park's SAR team and Larimer County SAR provided ALS and rescued the climber. The evacuation was over 1800 feet of scree and rough terrain to a waiting medevac helicopter. The climber sustained multiple spinal, internal and bilateral injuries to his lower legs. He was flown to Poudre Valley Hospital in Fort Collins. [Doug Ridley, ROMO] So what can we suppose happened here? Does 'communiacation breakdown' translate as being taken off belay before being anchored? How many of you/us use radios to reduce 'communication breakdowns' on long mulit-pitch routes? Any other favorite fail-safe techniques? [ 08-15-2002, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

Also, at the end of a long day on Devil's Tower my bud and I were rapping down in the dusk/dark. Too many climbs, too much fun, too little water that day, no headlamps...classic. We were taking our time tying the ropes together, checking each other out, etc. When I got to the bottom of a long rap and was taking the rope out of the ATC I noticed the rope strandss weren't threaded thru the biner that the ATC was attached to, but thru a different biner on my harness. That mistake really woke me up. It just so happened that it wasn't fatal. A slightly different variation could well have been.

Few years back was beginning the rap descent of a multi-pitch route somewhere. We broke out the 2nd rope we'd be toting up the climb for the occasion, ran an end thru the rap anchors, tied the ends together (EDK Rules!), and got the brainy idea to even the ends out because the rope we'd been climbing on was 60 m and the extra rope was 50 m. Sounded good at the end of a long day, right? So I start rapping, get about 5 m down the rope and of course run into the knot. Damn! Not an insurmountable problem, but felt kinda foolish. We still joke about that one.

quote: Originally posted by krazy 1: sorry about the dumb ass remark. "I love you man!" ok are we kool now? yep, kool.....that's what's it's all about........ See ya at VW or at the Icicle again sometime.

I'll vouch for Krazy1 being cute and a climber. If I weren't attached and accompanied by my gf I'd have probably made a REAL fool of myself that day..... btw, Krazy, did you end up trying the reachy hard(er) start on that route?

Why not, my photo hasn't caused me any harm......

not a penis or a guitar........

you guys slay me....

ya know, the more I look at Krazy1's pic, I could be convinced that it's actually the lady I met at the crag. Is that the case Krazy?

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: CD would imply that you like them enough to go out and buy a 'digitally remaster' copy of the classic It could also imply that one is too lazy to fire up the turntable, too. It's all on how you define a 'purist'.

Vinyl....come on!

From an April 2002 interview with Ash. "Although, Ash humbly admits "Bauhaus was a lot more than a rock band" Bauhaus wasn't the cream of his crop. His fondest memories are of his most-seldom mentioned band, Tones On Tail (essentially Love And Rockets before they became Love And Rockets)." I thought I was right.... we could compare the Bauhaus members to Tones on Tail along with dates from the dicography to be sure, though.

tones on tail

"his body is upon the wall his teeth are sharp and white we cut his feet with razorblades and out of him comes foul white light make a god of useless drivel sew it at the seams float it down the river where the sewage is the sea" Psychedelic Furs reminds me of this board sometimes.

Mazola may be more tasteful.

quote: Originally posted by JoshK: Thinker, assuming ML are her initials, nope, I'm climbing with somebody else. And for further clarification, nope, I'm not climbing with the bride either. Cool, it was just the whole roadtripping to a wedding in Oregon and wanting to find some climbing thing that tripped the synapses. just had to ask.

Maybe Lambone would give us a few more pointers if we beg him enough............

This could give horsecock a run for it's money: http://www.findhealer.com/telstar/products/OH01.php3

and from this Japanese website: http://www.chowchow.gr.jp/inova/sunake/esnake.html "Then, let's introduce the knowledge which has been learned about the copulation vessel (sex organs) of the snake and the copulation here. With the kind handwritten diagram. The copulation vessel of the snake. Because there is a pair, the male copulation vessel of the snake is being called a half-penis. A lizard is the same, too, and this is one of the characteristics of these groups. When it copulates by a shape like a figure, a penis turns over to turn over socks exactly, and it projects. Semen passes a groove in this surface, and it is led. Only the thing of one side is spent by the actual copulation. When a snake is sometimes roasted in the fire and surprised, this penis projects, and there is a person who mistakes this for the foot of the snake, too. Sex organs are in the pair in the same way as the female, too. It faces one female as the left, and the rare phenomenon that two males cross sometimes happens in the thing. (A photograph is the copulation of the stripe snake.)" [ 08-08-2002, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

http://www.animalfact.com/article1012.html It's true! They have two. "The female garter snake on the other hand, is not less excited than the males to mate. She will, if not crushed under the mating ball, raises her tail exposing her cloaca for the best-positioned male to insert one of his two penises. Once the successful male has mated with the female, he will deposit a cement-like secretion on her, which prevents other males from penetrating her. " [ 08-08-2002, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]