Thinker

I know what you mean, they're everywhere nowadays! My advice is to take the stuff into the bathroom before you tear of the magnetic strip and stuff it in your waistband. It's still illegal to put cameras in the bathrooms.

So I did the repair last night with Seam Sealer. Nice big patch on the outside to start with. Looked great this morning. I decided not to put a patch on the inside as it looked pretty good the way it was. Trimmed some loose edges on the inside and put a little more sealer on those edges. It'll have plenty of time to dry and cure before we head to the Tetons tomorrow eve! Thanks for the tips.

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: i'm less than 24 hours from ordering one - yeehaw!!! anybody with experience care to share? some expressed their opinions in this thread: soloing [ 08-22-2002, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

quote: Originally posted by jaee: Call BD. Get a return authorization #. Ship it back, insured. They will fix it and return it, typically paying the shipping back. I wouldn't hesitate to whine about this happening on a tent the second time you used it. Either the store you bought it from or BD should make it right. You might be surprised: Bibler repair experience I bought my Eldo after quite a bit of research, including talking to my climbing partners and friends who have them. One held up just fine on Denali for weeks, another is old and beat up, but still holds up fine all over the cascades. My eldo stood up in the winds overnight on the summit of Rainier last month, much to my liking. of course, YMMV [ 08-22-2002, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

quote: Originally posted by erden: This is what you are looking for... That's essentially the one I remember. The guy who had the slide was teaching a Wilderness First Aid course. He spent years doing SAR in the Presidential Range, may still be active. He also had some unique slides of the frozen bodies of 2 ice climbers who had topped out on a route they were climbing on the leeward side of Mt. Wash. At the top they were exposed to the legendary winds and froze solid within minutes. One guy was leaning against a rock, digging in his pack; the other was sprawled out, face down on the ground. Made for some interesting poses when they were put face-up on a litter. [ 08-22-2002, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

I make a point to wear my helmet when leading. Occasionally when toproping if there's much potential for rockfall from above. When I do space it off I'm a little perturbed at myself. I wear it while scrambling if I have it along...I figure it's just as easy to carry the weight on my head as it is to have it swinging around on my harness or on the back of my pack.

quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: i put an 'L' shaped tear in the seat of my Moonstone pants with an ice axe while glissading. That had to be quite a position! I reluctantly find myself trying to envision that one. I once saw a slide of a guy who'd run the shaft of his ice axe thru his abdomen, on the front side, left to right, entering high and exiting low. The medic who showed the slide said the guy did it glissading and walked into the ranger station for assistance that way. Talk about 'true grit'. [ 08-21-2002, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

Thanks DFA, great idea. aesthetics really aren't an issue. Based on how long seam grip has stayed on my Levis since the last time I sealed the seams on my Bibler, the stuff should last forever. hope you didn't take my slam of the sporties in the Godzilla thread too seriously, it was all tongue-in-cheek.

quote: Originally posted by plexus: Thread drift #3: Thinker I was up on After Six on Sunday, coming down the dirt gulley by headlamp. We always took our food with us. The only time not was cramming the dried apricots into our jar of peanuts while doing SS Minnow in Tulomne the same day. Yeah, I know better than to leave those tempting morsels in my pack. In my race to beat the Russians I blew off the pack check. It was still worth it not to get stuck behind them, though. They were evidently having some real problems that day (which isn't unusual there.) So how did '6' treat you? What else did you climb there?

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: I must agree with the changing partners bit. After having sex with a new partner you feel like a great conqueror and one of the two great needs in life have been fufilled (sex and climbing). After that you can focus on climbing and not think about the runnout. I don't know why SOs insist on bringing up some of the most controversial topics while on the approach to some of the best climbs. Things like "Why did you make that face last night when I started talking about: getting more serious/ my sister coming to live with us for 6 months/ all that time you spend climbing with your friends when you could be climbing with me? Why did you have to be such a bastard when you were looking at the girl who: was cuter/ has a better rack (more cams)/ pulls harder moves...than I do? All I really want to do is meditate a little bit while racking up, give the doll a kiss and lift off. REally don't need all that extra crap floating around in my consciousness when all I want to do is climb. Sometimes it's better just to head off with (platonic) friends for climbing parners.....but of course the benefits at the summit aren't as good that way. ah.........tradeoffs [ 08-20-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

web page according to this one it may already be open. Anyone know for sure?

tons of climbs there when it opens back up. just a couple miles from The City. web page

so for lack of other options, I went into REI last night. T'would be a week or more til I got my pack back. Said "sorry, no can do...heading to the Tetons this weekend." I asked the kindly young man for a piece of fabric so I can mangle my own (temporary) patch. He gave me a chunk, no charge. I'm impressed.

anyone know the current status of the Castle Rock Ranch?

quote: Originally posted by daytripper: There are a few things that I've found helpful especially with regards to longer or alpine rock routes. 1) Learn to assess your ability so that a unexpected fall is extremely rare 2) Habitually thump holds to test integrity 3) Learn to trust your gear placements by occasionally aid climbing 4) Focus on the moment, things you can control and your immediate neighborhood 5) Ditch partners who aren't okay with your climbing style sounds like my last relationship.......

quote: Originally posted by trask: Some of you guys really need a woman. Get Sum! yeah, whatever happened to Krazy1? she disappeared after we grilled her about her love life........

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: yellow spandex hasn't been seen at a sport crag since before DFA started climbing of course not, it was superceeded by bold lightning striped lycra, leapord skin lycra, and most recently by tribal print lycra.

quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: If I were to do this as other than a day trip, I would camp at Emmons Flats although it was still relatively crowded. That would make for a truly creative approach to the DC route.

It's impossible to escape crowds on that route or approach. One doesn't do the DC to have a "wilderness experience". the flats are usually a little less crowded than Camp Smear.

Another viewpoint. Sprot climbing and trad climbing are 2 completely different (but related) sports. True, they have some common elements, often share the same name, and many people do both. But, they're still not the same. I liken it to the difference between Canadian football and American football, or the difference between football and futbol. Each sport (sprot and trad) has its fanatics (fans), champions, martyrs, and patrons. IMHO, sprot climbing is much more closely related to gym/competition climbing and trad climbing much more closely related to alpine climbing. So go ahead, spray, denounce, fight over nuances, but don't forget that you're not comparing apples to apples here. If the truth were told, sprot climbing descended from the demons in the abyss who were exiled from the heavens by the LORD in their attempts to climb out of the abyss. Grid bolting, hang dogging, cordless drills, sprot crags, crowds in lycra....doesn't that sound like hell to YOU? Trad climbing, on the other hand, descended from the Greeks in their pious attempts to reach the summit of Mount Olympus to prostrate themselves to the gods and petition them for wisdom and guidance. Alpine meadows, wildflowers, wide open spaces, beautiful views....sounds like heaven to me. (can you tell what my bias is? ) [ 08-20-2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]

wrist rocket with ball bearing ammo........ silent, deadly, much more fun than a bb-gun

I was amped. I met my gf in Fresno on Fri night and trapsed off to the Valley to do a quick climb on Sat before some (of her) family obligations in the area on Sunday. We had our sights set on Nutcracker as we'd bailed from the top of the second (ramp) pitch last year due to a traffic jam above us on the 4th pitch....all we really wanted to do was finish the thing. The climb was fun, the scenery breathtaking. On about the 3rd or 4th pitch I started looking around for the peanuts I brought with me....damn, must have left them in my pack at the base of the climb...oh well. The mantle 'crux' was a bit puzzling for a few minutes, it really turned out to be more mental than physical. The 'summit' was deserted so we shared a special moment there before starting the walkoff. When I got back to my pack it was obvious something wasn't right.....is that a peanut I see?!?!?!? F*cking SNAFFLEHOUND chewed TWO holes in my pack to get the peanuts. It must have been either a really old, young, or weak hound because it left the headlamp (and a few extra treasures) behind. My fault, I guess, for being in a hurry to rack up and get on the start I wanted ahead of the Russian team of 3 that was racking up in the parking lot. One more thing to add to the checklist before liftoff....check pack for food. At least the Snafflehouds couldn't get to the beer we had in the cooler (in the bear box), and neither did any of the vagrants (I mean climbers) living in the park. Anyone have any favorite gear repairshops near DT Seattle who will do patches while u wait (besides REI)?

SK, so what was it that 'spanked' you? Sounds like you cut your teeth on some great moderate Leavenworth cracks. No shame in taking a couple of falls on your first time there. I'd venture to say that crack climbing is not something you get to do much of at Smith. It takes some adjustment and practice to work out the technique. I really get a kick out of watching sport climbers take a stab at Dogleg for the first time. (Ok, I'll admit I have a few friends who are sport climbers.) The moves and technique aren't immediately obvious to them and it usually leads to much swearing and good natured ribbing. It doesn't take too many days of climbing, though, for them to make the adjustment to the wonders of granite cracks. I'm sure you'll kick some ass the next time you visit horsecock heaven.

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: Sounds like you're both ready to join the mounties. Watch out, I saw at least one of them posting on the board earlier today.....I think he's actually in charge of their climbing classes.

I take an approach somewhere in the middle. I trust my gear, but don't take intentional falls on it. I relax when on sections of the climb where a fall will likely be inconsequential, but am always analyzing where I will hit if I peel. Where the consequences of a fall would be dire (decking on ledge or ground, runout slab), I make a fully informed decision based on the risks and how I'm feeling that day. 9 times out of 10 that assessment helps me focus and concentrate on the task at hand. I focus on one or two moves at a time and work thru it. The other times back off the climb and go back to it another day. Coming back from a scare like that often takes time and lots of building back up to it. Work through it and it will mean all that much more to you in the end.