RuMR

Yep...i whine and cry and drop f-bombs routinely...Mainly cuz i'm gettin' on stuff that's too hard for me...so what...do i know you? Sounds like you know me... Let's crag...I'm always looking for partners w/ flexible time...

I'd like to try great northern slab...worried about the runouts though... Seriously, what do you want to try?

Plates from south dakota?? Are you a nubbin-pincher? Always wanted to get to the needles...man, there's some history there... Hey, isn't that area the king of chippin' and boltin' w/ power tools and dynamite????

quote: rumr....... i only do pro bono work for hot chicks!!! sorry anyone else? Damn...gotta get those fixed...

Whoops...forgot the cheesy grins regarding the sporto routes!! here they is!!

Gotta work tomorrow... I'll be at Index most likely this monday...let's crag!! Wanna do some of those long sporto routes upstairs or anything!

any time you wanna go craggin' 666...name the place...let's go...

he's too busy trying to instigate a war w/ Iraq right now to respond...larger issues in the world besides grid bolting el cap, you know

quote: i bet i could cut a 1/4 panel of a car and section in a new one...bondo, weld, sand and refinnish it better then cosgrove and smith put together!! who wants to hang with me??? I'll hang w/ ya if you make me a deal on some dents in my truck

plus, i'm really really bored at work right now...so getting his goat's feet would amuse me...

i'm mainly playing devil's advocate w/ the pointy eared satanic stool sample...i could really give a rat's ass about him or kurt smith anyway... I'm curious to see if i can get his dander up...i think he's a shit talker...

Well then, would it have been ok if they would've installed the bolts by hand drilling? If that's ok, then i don't understand what the commotion is about...power drilling is DRILLING, so is hand drilling...What's the difference? The law? Fuck that...there's been stupid laws before and there will be stupid laws after...just because its a law doesn't mean its right...Now, if it could potentially get climbing shut down in the valley, i'd have a problem w/ it...but i don't think that would ever happen... and i still stand by my statement that cosgrove and smith would crush YOU on runout free climbing...you got a counter to that? Let's hear it...

Mr. 666, Shut the fuck up assmunch!! Already established climb? Not as a free climb, tool...You are weak in your logic and probably in life... Much of the aid version of that route was on hooks and other shenanigans that a free climber wouldn't be able to use for protection as it was only good enough to move on...Mr. Smith would crush you on runout free climbing as would Mr. Cosgrove...and no, I'm not his "but" buddy as I've never met the guy... What exactly have you done to give you the right to smack talk about someone anonymously????? And what's w/ the stupid ass 666 crap? Does that make you a bad ass?? I think a dumbass is more likely

This is RURP: That guy said: "RURP...you're bein' a bird beak tool on this...Kurt Smith has put up some pretty wild/dangerous trad routes in his day..." Big Deal....so have a lot of guys. Groupies, I say. RURP has spoken Whatever big-wall-tool...my comment was based on your sporto comment from your first post...

RURP... you're bein' a bird beak tool on this...Kurt Smith has put up some pretty wild/dangerous trad routes in his day...

we will see if V15 is to be confirmed... Yeah, throwin it down when it counts is awesome...i do that every night in my dreams...Oh well... RG, I'm trying to get back in shape...I think Redmond will be the ticket under the new management...it rulez as of late...we'll see, though...tough w/ two kidz, but i've got some motivation since the wife is out running marathons right now...Didn't she realize that your supposed to take it ez when you just had a kid? Iain...Chain is ALWAYS under siege by a ton of people...and a sandbag is a deception-->by that definition, I wasn't sandbagging myself...I have no illusions about how bad i suck

listen ropegunsquirt...I SUCK...Can't believe how bad the punk crew shut my schtuff down last night at Redmond...I'm going to take up knitting...

I saw Tommy Caldwell redpoint that route...he said you finish w/ some v9 moves (the crux) at the top...the endurance factor is what gets you on that thing...If you think about it, Jam Master J has only got 4 "real" moves...but its only been done a few times...the moves on that have been equated to V11-V12...the current standard for bouldering is around V13 to V14 or something like that, right?...Yet JMJ is only given .13d...a few hard moves (but not limit-moves) are absolutely sick when you have to clip, recover and keep climbing... I'm only talking about observations that i have made over 17 years or so...I don't climb anything hard...

whoops...double posts...this bulletin board stuff is v12 at least...i'm a dumb a$$

Leading some 5.10's at smith? 5.10's at smith don't have anything on them that's harder than v.0-...and most of the actual climbing wouldn't even make the v scale on them... 5.11's at smith typically have nothing harder than v.1/v2... 5.12's at smith may or may not have v3 climbing on them w/ the odd shorter .12's having something around v4 or v4+...Take Chain Reaction, for example,...benchmark .12c for short routes...that thing in the gym would be v4-ish if plastic...Another example would be Churning at .13a...any 5 move chunk of that route would be v2 to v4...you just don't get much of a rest. The YDS rating will reflect the endurance to hang on, rest when given the opportunity, and protect yourself...so, if your top-end leading is 5.10, you'd be maxed to climb a short v4.

Leading some 5.10's at smith? 5.10's at smith don't have anything on them that's harder than v.0-...and most of the actual climbing wouldn't even make the v scale on them... 5.11's at smith typically have nothing harder than v.1/v2... 5.12's at smith may or may not have v3 climbing on them w/ the odd shorter .12's having something around v4 or v4+...Take Chain Reaction, for example,...benchmark .12c for short routes...that thing in the gym would be v4-ish if plastic...Another example would be Churning at .13a...any 5 move chunk of that route would be v2 to v4...you just don't get much of a rest. The YDS rating will reflect the endurance to hang on, rest when given the opportunity, and protect yourself...so, if your top-end leading is 5.10, you'd be maxed to climb a short v4.

Peter Puget: Climbed w/ both a bit...Erik in Europe and Smith, some at Index...Andy was mainly at Smith when i was living there... Yeah, if given a choice between the two for that specific route, I'd pick Andy...still would rather have one of them do it on the sharp side than me... Regarding my comment to Dwayner, i should've been more clear. My impression of his view (and maybe yours?) is that there is no respect for traditional climbing from sport climbers. I was merely countering that w/ some examples of people who respect EVERY form of climbing and perform at a high level whilst doing so...Then I made a $hitty point that their level of competence came, in part, from sport climbing and gym climbing...two things he has a clear dislike of. Shouldn't have tried to make the second point as it muddied the waters. For that matter, i dig all facets of rock climbing, both traditional and sport climbing. My sport climbing is only a notch higher (1 number grade) than my trad climbing, and that really depends on what I'm doing. Additionally, Dwayner never did respond to my question about East Face down at Smith...I'm curious if that would be considered an abomination in his mind, because if it is, i have no clue where he's coming from and what his deal is...

Damn...another paper of mine just got a b+ due to poor tense use of the verb *is*...ahh crap...guess that's why i went into engineering...

A skill he no doubt learned from jumping off onto a bolt at the vertical club, no doubt!! HA HA HA...

Does anybody remember Andy Deklerk? Man, that guy was the quintessential all around climber...mountains, aid, wall, crack or sport, ice, or sunny bouldering...and he did it all at a very high grade...5.12/5.13 cracks, 13+/14- sport routes etc. Another decent all arounder would be Dr. K...he'd never admit it, but he was a damn fine crack climber as well and does decent at ice as well... I think the key to these guys was their training programs/climbing volume of which a significant portion was plastic and sport climbing. Mr. Dwayner would be hard pressed to find a "trad-only" guy that could go w/ them regarding enthusiasm/love for climbing or technical ability. And he can say whatever he pleases, the proof is in the pudding.