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RuMR

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    Team USA at Youth Worlds in Singapore!!!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Two days of qualifiers...top 26 go to semis...so psyched so psyched...

     

     

     

    Here's an update of the Worlds comp after the 2nd Qualifier yesterday:

     

    Our climbers crushed...Alex Fritz and Sean Bailey are local Seattle-ites!

     

    Alex and Sean both advance to semi's on lead.

    --Alex finished 16th on Q2, and has an overall rank of 15th.

    --Sean finished 4rd on Q2, and has an overall rank of 14th.

     

    Rest of the US team:

     

    Male Jr

    Alex Fritz 15th overall, Q1 12th, Q2 16th

    Josh Levin 18th overall, Q1 17th, Q2 14th

    Noah Ridge 19th overall, Q1 9th, Q2 25th

    Owen Grahm 22th overall, Q1 20th, Q2 21st.

     

    Female Jr

    Shannon Lochridge 10th overall, Q1 6th, Q2, 10th

    Michaela Kiersch 21st overall, Q1 28th, Q2 17th

    Cicada Jenerik 25th overall, Q1 25th, Q2 22th

    Nicole Hansen 36th overall, Q1 32nd, Q2 31st

     

    Male A

    Sean Bailey, 14th overall, Q1 43rd, Q2 4th

    Nicholas Milburn, 16th overall, Q1 23rd, Q2 13th

    Dylan Barks, 20th overall, Q1 17th, Q2 16th

    Dominic Labarge, 41st overall, Q1 26th, Q2 43rd

     

    Female A

    Kyra Condie, 16th overall, Q1 15th, Q2 14th

    Jacquelyn Wu, 18th overall, Q1 15th, Q2 21st

    Callie Walter, 29th overall, Q1 30th, Q2 25th

    Amelia Metcalf, 39th overall, Q1 30th, Q2 37th

     

    Male B

    Brendan Mitchell 4th overall, Q1 9th, Q2 topped

    Jesse Grupper, 17th overall, Q1 14th, Q2 17th

    Solomon Barth, 22nd overall, Q1 14th, Q2 31st

    Cole Skinner, 41st overall, Q1 29th, Q2 52nd

     

    Female B

    Claire Buhrfeind, 1st overall, Q1 1st, Q2 6th

    Margo Hayes, 2nd overall, Q1 3rd, Q2 1st

    Margarita Marsanova, 13th overall, Q1 13th, Q2 6th

    Grace Mckeehan, 17th overall, Q1 13th, Q2 15th

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I havn´t read anything so absurd since the last time I wasted time on this site….if anyone wants to see if they are a 5.11 climber, come with me next week to Index for a day or two cause I wanna see if I can be an off the couch 5.11 climber…ha ha ha ha ha….so does not leading a route after two or so years mean you can consider it as an alzheimers onsite…if so maybe I can wiggle my way into being a mighty “NW 5.11 climber”…..
    I dunno Tim...seems to me that after 500 ascents of a route, one can't claim "Alzeihmers"...and i hear that Spanish tufa makes great sofa cushions...just sayin'

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    You get good at what you do. If you pull plastic bouldering routes you get good at plastic bouldering routes. If you climb slabs all the time you get good at that. If you climb crimpy Little Si enduro routes you get good at those. Unfortunately, skills in one area usually don't confer much benefit in the other areas. The only way to become a solid all-around climber is to climb all of the styles, with particular emphasis on your weaknesses.

     

    Most people don't have/make time to log that many hours on distant crags to get good at everything. Wet weather doesn't help the equation. I wish there was a gym where I could practice slab climbing. Ditto jamming of different sizes. Yes, there are some gyms that have fake cracks but they're pretty far from the real thing.

     

    So here's a hypothesis: it's not possible to become a 5.11 all-rounder if you live on the wet side of our mountains and have a family and job because you simply can't log enough hours practicing all the necessary skills. Maintaining a high level of proficiency is easier than gaining it in the first place, which is why I say "become" rather than "be" above. Feel free to prove me wrong.

     

    ps. Largo is too Yosemite-centric. We need a list of NW benchmark routes.

    Well said, Rad...

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I would say anyone that climbs sustained 5.11 trad at Index, be it crack, slab, or face, onsite or redpoint, is a 5.11 climber. The climber that climbs any style 5.11 onsite is a solid 5.11 climber.
    that's a pretty fair statement...might not apply to steep rifle-esque areas though...

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

     

    I'd say Ben is, souldreaper is, mike is, etc...there are some awesome climbers on this site...that was my point...Pysched on the NW climbers!

     

    Don't forget the 11worth contingent as long as we're droppin names - Blake, Sol, Jens, etc.

    Yah...they would definitely be in there!

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The fact is, if the "rules" allow for one to hang off a line of closely fixed pro and rehearse indefinitely (i.e., the status quo in much of "free climbing" today), YOU, TOO, can be a 5.11/.12/.13 whatever bad dog if you've got the zeal, time and energy to siege a route into submission! Climbing it clean (leaving little or no trace....just like them backpackers figgered out 50 years ago) from the bottom up without falling, though, is another thing altogether.

     

    Booooooo!

    oh lookie, grumpy stopped by to lay a dookie... yawn

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by RuMR

    I can think of no less than 10 solid "5.11 climbers" that are regulars here. Most of them probably don't tout it though. For every one of those, you have 20 more claiming "I can climb 5.11" but really can't. Seems about consistent with meeting partners who are from the gym or sport crags. Talk is cheap, especially on the interwebs.

     

    Better to sandbag your own abilities, rather than eat humble pie when that 5.9 kicks your 5.11 not-so-tradmaster-ass. (IMHO)

     

    Not sure but i think we are saying the same thing...but to reiterate what i just said:

     

    1. there are some awesome local nw climbers

    and

    2. being an "all around" 5.11 climber is impressive.

     

    And if your "Talk is cheap" comment was directed at me, well, fuck you too...

     

    This is interesting...

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by RuMR

     

    nice link to the fuddyduddy forum on the taco, but are you thinking of cc.comers that qualify as all around yosemite 5.11 crack climbing experts or as tiresome windbags who whine ceaselessly about how things ain't so good as they were back in the day of the stonedmasters? seems like there are more than "a couple" on this site who qualify for the latter.

    So, if your one of them, who is the "other" one that qualifies? Ivan?

     

    I'm a solid 5.6 trad climber, does that mean I'm half a 5.11 trad-master? A bit more than half, to be precise.

     

    [video:youtube]

     

    I think the point of the post by John Long was that calling oneself a 5.11 climber and being able to climb any 5.11 onsight regardless of style is a fairly select club. I am most certainly not in this club...

     

    I'd say Ben is, souldreaper is, mike is, etc...there are some awesome climbers on this site...that was my point...Pysched on the NW climbers!

    Any thoughts about the 18V Makita Rotary Hammer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    finally got around to drilling some holes

    rock was at a quarry near monroe. I think it was some kind of sandstone

    3/8" drill to 5" depth

    battery may not have been fully charged and the battery has had some work use since we got it 4 months ago. So the battery may not have as much charge as a brand new one would.

    I got 13 holes into a boulder laying on the ground, standing right over it while drilling.

     

    I will try later with a known fully charged battery in other types of rock.

     

    Thanks Gene! I'm pretty sure i'm going to get this...

     

    Any thoughts about the 18V Makita Rotary Hammer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Is this spill over from ST? A light weight drill motor would be nice. I just wonder about durability - how many times the battery can be recharged.

     

    I hope your son develops a healthy distain for "tradition."

     

    I wouldn't say "disdain" so much as he is more about realistic/practical...

     

    He can run it out with the best of them, so "pansy bolting" won't ever be the concern...Half the time i spend nagging him to place more gear...

    Any thoughts about the 18V Makita Rotary Hammer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Rad -

     

    I think that is a great list of points that should be made in the assesment/decision process.

    Those ideals are paramount in responsible bolting whether it be with the advantage of a power tool or doing it the hard way by hand.

    Indeed the placing of any fixed gear should not be done without serious consideration.

    Very nice and great food for thought.

     

    :tup:

    very nice, but start another thread...

     

    Any thoughts about the 18V Makita Rotary Hammer

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I've used the TE6 and it is a good tool but maybe in some respects overkill. In nice soft granite it will drill more holes on a charge than one probably should in a day.Most of us are going to make some mistakes anyway but if you try to place 20 bolts at a time (and I've seen it done with the TE6 ) there will probably be a lot of misfires.

     

    Good point Matt. IMHO placing a bolt is an act that should not be taken lightly as it permanently alters the rock. Before placing a bolt I try to address the following questions:

     

    - Is the line worth developing (aka will others want to climb it)?

    - Does it need to be a lead route (some routes in other parts of the country are top-rope only)

    - Is there other protection available that could eliminate the need for a bolt?

    - Is bolt placement consistent with the traditions of the crag under development?

    - Is the bolt being placed with subsequent climbers in mind (preferred IMHO) or only to suit the needs of the FA party (selfish IMHO).

    - Would the selected bolt placement adequately protect the leader from hitting the ground, a ledge, or another nasty obstacle?

    - Would the bolt protect moves that need to be protected?

    - Is the bolt being placed so that people of average height can reach it from a reasonable clipping stance?

    - Is the placement a reasonable distance from protection before and after that point in the climb?

    - Would the bolt place the rope and/or quickdraws so that they obstruct a key feature needed for freeclimbing?

    - Is the bolt being placed in line with other protection so that rope drag will be minimized?

    - Is the bolt being placed away from rock features, such as roofs and ledges, that could cause significant rope drag or other problems?

    - Would the bolt be in solid rock away from weak points?

    - Would the bolt be near a sharp edge that could cut/damage the rope or a quickdraw?

     

    Placing bolts using a power drill is the easiest and fastest part of route development, and it's one of the last steps I take.

    But that's me. I'm sure others have other opinions.

     

    No bolting arguments/discussions please...i'm only asking about the drill itself...i've put in enough routes already...not a noob here...

     

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