RuMR
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Posts posted by RuMR
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Matt, FYI, Marc started as a Canadian youth comp climber....
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yeah, but it was in squamish...
WI2/M0/5.8+
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i haven't yet...
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sure, and i'm a 5.14 sidewalker, but i trip on curbs and sidewalks occasionally...
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and i'm totally being tongue in cheek using the term "sporto"...btw
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who said anything about soloing 5.9 slippery slab? Plus ropeless on sport routes has the same magical way with those ratings...don'tcha think?
I qualified my statements by saying "There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage."...reading comprehension, dear boy!
Also these routes quoted by Matt are sport routes (hell, two of them aren't even in squamish):
- Eurasian Eyes
- Pulse
- Captain America
- Dream Catcher
Dream Catcher, and Captain America were all put up by "sportos" (although Mike did spend a fair bit of time at Index). Pulse and Eurasion Eyes are sandford routes i believe...also a sporto...
Point is 9a (or 8c+ now, i guess) onsighting is cutting edge for the time being and a comment like "I'd like to see him solo some offwidth" is so corny, it kills me...
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maybe we should go back to hobnailed boots, and goldline and call everything 5.9 or 5.9+ too....
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not sure what soloing some route has to do with anything grade-wise...why would he, in his right mind, want to solo it anyways? For bonus points on his 8a.nu card??? :rofl:
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PS: I won't even mention Drew...
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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.
Then again, hell might freeze over too...
I am not sure how many times hell has frozen over but it has happened enough times on the rock to make a glacier. Slab and off-hands and offwidths with no hand holds and bad weather are great equalizers for starters.
Start with Pipeline free solo, go to Unfunished Symphony, then to left side of Split Pillar, then the locals can give more suggestions.
Squamish can represent.
Are you seriously saying that someone who is onsighting 9a is gonna have much of a hard time with the split (either side) or pipeline (solo = stupid, doesn't affect the rating)???? ROTFL
Ethan Pringle is an example of a high end "sporto" who made the transition to gear/trad/whatever in a season, culminating in a rapid ascent of Squamish's current trad testpiece (Cobra Crack).
Plus, anyone climbing at a 9a (or even 8a) onsight level will very very quickly adjust to "granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths..." if they so choose to.
The level of climbing is going through the roof. Another example is 11 year old Mirko...several 5.14 ascents. You wanna guess what his first crack climb was? Bachar Cracker, yup...a V4 boulder problem...Now, take a guess of what his second crack climb was...Oh, alright, i'll tell you. The Rostrum, onsight.
Make no mistake, a high end sport climber is a climber. They are bold, and they learn quick. There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage.
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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.
Then again, hell might freeze over too...
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Don't screw around...just send them to Ramuta...
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Bob...you are 5'-5" tops!! ;-)
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I don't know about underrated, maybe not well known...One of the most under rate climbers out there! -
Mikey is killing it....amazing...
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i have yet to be shut down completely because of rain...you might lose an hour or 3, but you'll still get some climbing in...
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He blew it the day before and was so upset...he didn't think he had another shot at completing the crux from the ground...
Enjoy!
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ohhhh...its like an easter egg hunt!
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oh jeezus...you guys crack me up with these prophesies of doom...what, one guy got a rope chopped out of how many THOUSANDS of falls??
I routinely pull shite biners off and swap a beater one of mine in. Use your brain, carry on, etc...duh, it ain't rocket science...
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I have not seen it in action. Can you explain exactly what is the difference? It is a full body harness with the same "looping" patterns. I'm just not seeing it.
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Its the exact same harness with the same tie in locations. Yeah, sure, its got some foam in the legs and over the back/shoulders so it looks fancy. Same thing though...
Also, the foam will limit how far down the legs close up, and the back can be brought down.
Hype euro fashion...
Cheers and stickin' with my nuts and hexes!
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the simba is an old outdated design. its whats been used in gyms for years.
the fraggle is much more innovative and breaks the old design assumptions that simba and other designs reinforce. ping-pong inside of a webbing chamber.
tie in options with the fraggle put the knot and rope away from the kids face and out of their way, so they can focus on what they are supposed to, holds and climbing, not knot and rope to distract
Whatever...never had a problem with ours...Been through 3 kids just fine...
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Alpine nirvana. Skiers can suck it.
:tup: skiing blows anyway... -
This thread is a stupid trend....
2x 9a OS
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
I guess, Matt, the problem i have with your post is it sort of reeks of disrespect kind of.
It feels like "Oh yeah, that's not such a big deal...i'd like to see him get crushed here, because its all REAL and what not."
I just don't get it...
Yeah, sure, someone may not be completely versed in one style of climbing as opposed to another...is that your point?????