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bobbyperu

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Everything posted by bobbyperu

  1. was wondering if anyone has been on this feature since half of it fell off... or who knows when it ripped? interested in the lewis nelson rt specifically... any news is good news, thanx
  2. lohtse, was out there on tuesday, and the way in from mtneer creek is straight forward, at the first switchback to stu lk head thru, cross creek, good size flow, find log. i stayed high through big talus(cairns), wound along till underneath sherpa glacier (water here) followed good snow up to toe of ridge. rock is dry down low. patches (water supply) higher... sherpa glacier in good shape. random question for anyone out there... anyone been on the girth pillar after half of it fell off??? looks kinda rowdy up there, was wondering if the nelson lewis line still exsists??
  3. right-on, good to hear you scored good conditions, and had a good time. sounds as though the route has changed a bit from a month ago, and i'm sure alot different from your ski descent a few years ago. again congrats on a fun trip... hope those utah dudes are o.k.... its funny, after i posted a tr for this climb earlier, i recieved some pm's from some dude from utah, wonder if its the same dude? anyway 2 days from white river sounds like a nice pace. i remember being pretty hashed from the ipsut 2 day program. heres to ya!
  4. right, on! was there much ice?
  5. i was in the emmonds last weekend after an ascent of liberty ridge, and i being a snowboarder who likes to ride big mountain terrain imagined the conditions going down the emmonds to be unpleasant for riding due to the abundance of ice...i would not personally chose this route for a enjoyable descent, though it could be skied. just my two cents... have a blast! hope this helps?
  6. we arrived at the ipsut/carbon river enterance to the park around midnite on 10th. early friday we set out from the parking lot and hit the mostly snow covered trail towards the carbon glacier. few tracks on the trail and after the suspenson bridge less. lots of snow along the moraine above mystic lake. upon reaching lower curtis ridge, the weather had been playing games with us, big thick cloud cover then ripping apart to giveus head-on veiws of the magnificent north face of ranier, and lib ridge jutting out proudly. we found our passage onto the carbon and roped up. there is alot of snow on this upper part of the glacier. navigation was intersting due to the sporadic weather, and the breaking of trail memorable... we found a direct path as the weather steadily improved. the position on the glacier here is spectacular... this is an amazing alpine cirque, with straight-on veiws into a big, rugged, landscape of snow, "rock", and ice. we headed up towards willis wall and found a snow/ice slope on the east side of the ridge between themogenesis, and the toe of lib ridge proper, we crossed a small shrund and climbed up wonderful sno/ice towards the crest. once on the crest we crossed to the west side and followed it directly up to thumb rock passing good snow and short mixed steps at thumb, we made camp under continued perfect skys and took in our position at this cool high camp. as the day faded away to nite the stars put on an amazing display under the moon-less sky. the sky eventually brightened and the sun caught us breaking camp. we headed out left and up perfect slopes of frozen snow and ice, thru a chute and towards the crest below the black pyramid. as we ascended ,the slopes became more icy with beautiful exposure and straight forward climbing. at the pyramid we headed up and left to the major ice face on the upper east side of the ridge, this face was wildly exposed and sustained, with absolutly gorgeous bubbly blue and grey alpine ice. this section continued along and above the pyamid towards the seracs at the top of the face. when the angle eased a bit we moved right and scoped a passage above thru the seracs to liberty cap. the climbing here was more of the same quality with steeper steps over and thru the ice cliffs. when the last of the steep was climbed we cruzed up more ice to liberty cap. on top we found the only wind so far on the climb and it was mellow, we headed along the northern edge of the plataeu to meet up with the emmonds glacier. we navigated thru the big yawners and down mostly icy slopes with occasional snow patches. once below stemboat prow we met up with the winthrop glacier and continued down under st. elmo pass, the conditions were more postholing the lower we got with occasional jumps and weaving to avoid the cracks... after reaching the lower margin of the winthrop, we headed west to make camp near a stream and forest below and east of mystic lake. we crashed and slept-in the following morning enjoying mild nite-time temps and bright stars. awaking again to perfect weather we broke camp and headed up and out to the lake, and up along to our trail at the moraines edge above the carbon. the area around the lake was spectacular, situated below dramatic cliffs, with full-on veiws of the climb, and the sweep of the eastern and northern aspects of this glacial-clad volcano. back at the terminus of the carbon, we encounterd more melted out conditions, and once over the bridge, a steady flow of mothers day hikers, asking if we had made it to the glacier?.. you could say that, i guess. this climb epitoizes the term "classic", and for those alpinists seeking a big, exposed ice climb in a incredibly powerfull position, in the heart of mt. raniers north face, look no further, cause liberty ridge delivers! and for full value do it "off the couch", with two screws, and dull tools...oops... sans sousie! thanx, mike gauthier for the condition reports, enthusiasm, and stoke along the way!!
  7. sam, was up teanaway riv rd. last sat. got to within 6 mi. of trail head. road was mostly only patchysnow from what i could see. we bailed to the mtneer creek trailhead, so thats all the info i got... hope it helps... happy skiing.
  8. we were up a mtneer creek last sunday... no sno to the trailhead. little bit of snow, was frozen at 6 a.m. till the bridge at 2 miles, more snow, still frozen, till the colchuck lake trail-branch. snow through the big talus and throughout the forest hillside one hikes to the lake was frozen good in the a.m. with minimal punch through. good coverage still making for a rapid ascent to the lake. more snow, not a wholelot though around the lake, lake frozen, colchuck glacier, asgaard pass good snow coverage. was snowing a bit, with lots of wind. snow was still o.k. on the hike out. super beautiful area right now... not alot of folks either. didn't go to stuart lk. soon... hope this gives some info
  9. timl, definatly take your bud with you on the sno crick wall,plenty of goods spots to smoke on route. no worrys about the descent or the route being dry, last sunday we did "space is the place" a.k.a. outer space, and it was a blast!i has forgotten how cool those upper pitches are! carefull on top though, the big goat almost rushed my brother for his piss... also check for chiggers, all three of us got hit. tweezers?
  10. goatboy... i imagine youre getting stoked to be leaving the palouse for your summer stint in the valley, and if your inqueries lead you up to the spires you wont be disapointed... as for chablis, the regular route is super fun. and a good compliment i've found is to do the south face of pernod directly from the notch between these two spires. this combo gives you a really cool jaunt up chablis on mostly mid fifth with occasional harder if you so desire, to a cool exposed little summit. then follow ramps around to the north to the notch and continue in one pitch directly up the south face on pernod (.9) really cool climbing... right to the base of the 12' summit block. 2 original bolts( read: beckeys challenge of the cascades,) old and pulling out, will set you on a crazy little summit in the heart of one of the coolest spots around! from there call it a good day, or continue, and link the "rebel yell" on chianti, and the n. face of burgundy, for an even better day linking the wine spire group! a worthwhile link-up in a magical area... see ya around shazama. kevin
  11. as of last sunday outerspace was the place... dry, sunny, only one other party, well worth headin up to. everything else on the wall looked good too, the descent was snow free and dry. some dead fall on the way up after crossing sno creek, but otherwise a great place to spend the day. all three of got ticks too, so bring up your Hearts 24 hour collars and you'll be set. enjoy
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