Crackbolter

I think the best option isn't to bolt the route because the Mountaineers use the climb in their curriculum but to evaluate the way The Mountaineers are doing their curriculums. I'd like to see the statistics of Mountaineer outing related injuries and deaths in the history of the club. Climb with the Mounties and you are going to epic.

What is wrong with bolts? Do you have something against safe climbing?

So you climbed it? Cool Ben. It sits in a cool place but I agree...long approach for the one route.

You guys know about Puff the Magik Dragon in Rat Creek? Kind of contrived since the route was climbed already. Since it was climbed by Doorish I guess the name has no merit huh.

Anyone? Split gas, leave in the morning, come back in the evening. Might be talked into climbing something on Temple Ridge if we can leave around 3am.

Look at the bright side; You were the first guys to climb the entire Picket Ridges and rate it for others to repeat. Pretty cool that I can do it and know it goes now...if I can climb at your abilities. The Stuart range is easier to know if someone has climbed your line or not. Conveniently grubbed placements and pin scars are easy to identify from angles and above. Not always the case but often enough. Seems like gneiss is harder to tell if others have passed. Any thoughts on this?

There you go gettin more booty again. New slings a plenty here mmmm?

I started reading Range of Glaciers recently. I read another called King of Fish and have also read many, many others related to the environmental impact of the Pacific Northwest. Rock climbers, mountaineers, skiers, backpackers and other foot and hand powered adventure seekers seem to have a common ground; environmentalism. Rant and rave but first realize the history of the decline of habitiat in the PNW. A bolt is a grain of sand in the ocean of impact that has been bestowed onto our resources. Go chop your bolts and kick over cairns and whatever else satisfies your needs but you are wasting energy in the grand scheme of what is really needed here. How many of you waste mass amounts of money every year caught in the consumerism of buying the latest and greatest climbing or skiing gizmo when you could be selflessly giving that money to a private fund contributing to the protection of our public lands? I'd guess everyone reading this post. I just wish I wasn't so much part of the problem rather than part of the solution.

They are. Good work guys, glad to hear it!

Here is a pic from the top of the barrier... Cross the slabs as if you plan on climbing West Mac. Read Jim Nelson's info in Selected Climbs Vol 1.

Here is the barrier. I suggest trying the gully.

No west arete or dorado? Shit, we never made it past the Triad! Nice job getting the summit after all that.

Yeah, whacked all the way down to Goodell and followed the creek until we regained the trail. The dotted line is somewhat accurate. I remember the white bubbly rock being the best section and the gully/chimney being somewhat dissapointing. Felt like mountain 5.7.

Climb: Terror -North Face Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: Dave, Greg and I went for the big one in the Southern Pickets. The climbing was pretty quick. Only a breif "where did the bivy site go?" after wandering around at twilight looking for it after getting off. We made force bivy from 11 til 4:30 and then walked 100 yards back to bivy. A big thanks to Dave for sharing his goods in time of need. The Southern Pickets from Chopping Block Col A good rest place Sunset photo The access to the Northern side Mustard Glacier Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, medium rack Approach Notes: Careful, we got lost going in and coming out and it was my second time up Crescent Creek!

Nice job! Please send an e-mail when you guys are ready to show the trip and tell the story by slide projector and beers. The photos of this trip are excellent. I can't wait to see the rest.