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muffy has a big fat festering black boil of a problem. Let me preface it by saying that I have lead out side a dozen or more times and have never seen one of my draws twisted or the rope against the gate. My problem: I set out this winter to work on my leading in the gym. since doing so I have started to back clip and I can't seem to stop. I want diagrams and pointer and hints and I need yer help. I want to understand better what a back clip i.. I want to see picture of how and how not to clip... lets also talk about quuick draws and brands and what is good and bad about them.. unless they are all realy the same... do I want bent gate, does it matter???? please help muffy

Jason. I think that my bigest climbing fault so to say is that I have been over caustious. I don't plan on dying. thank you for your concern. let me add that I think my other big climbing fault was letting other people have controle of the rack and the direction of my climbing. I didn't pay that close attention because I had a built in ropegun. it was fun but I didn't take charge of MY climbing... so now I have alot to learn.

damn it.. now I can't get out of practicing falling at the gym tonight

maybe next year if yer good

whens your b-day??

I LOVE YOU

No Muffy, every piece of gear you put in should hold a fall until your next placement. The leader must not fall was outdated since the advent of dynamic ropes. If you're climbing within you limit, then your gear is just in case. But you should be climbing comfortably enough not to put in a crappy piece. If your climbing at or above your limit, then your gear had goddamn well better be designed to hold a fall. The only time you should be putting a shitty piece in is A.) that's all you got - good luck! B.) you're climbing at your limit, you think you're gonna blow and don't wanna fall and the only gear you can get in with your forearms screaming is a shitty piece to hold your wieght or catch a short fall. As for the rope drag self cleaning piece....unless the traverse is hard and a fall would hurt/kill you, you have to suck it up and run it out till the rope is running in more of a straight line. You should never expect your gear to clean itself. I'd throw a beer can at my partner if I saw him/her fucking around with that trick. Mikey, you hit the nail on the head.. that is what I was thinking.. "leader never falls" perhaps I shopuld find my way to climbing in this century

what I am gathering here is that I have been being too hard on myself as far as HOW I progress in my climbing. Interesting.

see sometimes mouthing off and being wrong allows me to learn, I see I have some things to think about. tex says that something is not climbed unless I lead it clean. the rest I read in some book. bet it's way old school when there was less pro

how about not depending on the gear so much, and JUST NOT FALLING I thought and what I have read and bean tought is that the gear is there just incase....if you are using it you are climbing AID

me I am such a wimp btw, I think this is what makes me such a chicken shit leader still working on it

when I go climbing with Tex I know I am going to spend 90% of my time hanging on the rope rather than on the wall. I know this becuase he pushes me to climb that hard. when I want to practice my leading (and I say practicing because I am not realy a leader) I work well with in my my climbing ability.. honestly I realy hate to fall. realy realy hate it.

Actually, the two big whippers I have taken were total surprises to me. that is because you are a cocky SOB and underestimated the area (for the one I know about) And I was out of shape...don't forget that. well and it was tricky.. first trip of the season

you are right minx... you can fall and die on a 5.6 as easily as you can a 5.15

Actually, the two big whippers I have taken were total surprises to me. that is because you are a cocky SOB and underestimated the area (for the one I know about)

HERBERT I THINK I LOVE YOU ya what he said, except I would take it on easy climbing trips too.

Are we discussing the same subject Muffy? That didn't make a drop of sense. -on the alpine thing...I see. yeah gotta get something in to keep you on the mtn if a hold breaks. My point was that if the piece wasn't good (i.e. it would rip) then it won't do you any good if you fall on it. I don't think many of us put in totally shitty pieces on an alpine route w/so many cracks and shit to sling around so it's a moot point i guess. perhaps not.. I do not climb alpine.. so maybe I should shut up

You're right, one is a form of masturbation and one is actual climbing. We're not talking about hangdogging up some climb, we're talking about whipping on gear. yep me too. we all know where our ability level is... you get better by pushing past that. you know when you are going to fall/learn

I think you guys are all lazy sloppey climbers. I can frechfree a .10 no problem, I do that when I am planning on falling. on working on a project. a climb is not climbed unless it has been lead clean. that is climbing with style. there is a diffrence between working on a project and climbing. so you see the piece is fine if you are climbing with in you comfort zone.. if not you might want to think about it a little more. if you think you may take a big fall or you are on something not in you comfortlevel you might want to take a diffrent peice.

the idea is for pro to be back up.. as long as you don't PLAN on falling on it you should be fine. I would use it as long as it looks good.

I hope that one day I can bee so lucky

or to remiond me that I have no powere at all I am a slave to cc.com

I call a Muffy hey I can't get one... just normal people who should be able to spell

muffy aproves