Alpinfox

Careful out there guys/gals:

I'm just testing an image post. Please ignore.

I bet that was a typo and he meant 12th or maybe they have a different calendar system in Canada?

I don't remember anything that I would call a "gully" on the descent. When I did it in late May last year it was a casual plunge-stepping affair with a couple of open cracks that were easily avoided. It's fairly steep, so if icy you might want to put in a picket or two while above the cracks. There are a couple of spots where it wouldn't be good to start sliding, but I felt very comfortable without pro, just crampons & axe.

That sounds promising. Fejas?

Superfly has sharp points on it and no case, though you could make one of course. It doesn't fold up to a very small size either. It is nice that it can take Gaz cartridges though. I like the pocket rocket and the snowpeak for small canister stoves. P

Hi Steve, Take a look at my post about the Stuart Glacier Coulior

Hmm... The day of our approach hike it was pretty cool and mostly cloudy with occasional sunbreaks and a few little snow/rain mixed flurries. I don't remember what it was like the day before that. On the day of the climb, we had intermittent clouds and occasional snow flurries. It was breezy and the temperature was right around freezing. We hoped it would be cooler to stabilize all that shizit, but my feet got pretty cold belaying as it was, so maybe that was for the best. A general note for folks heading up that way. We saw a huge avalanche early or mid-afternoon on the ice cliff glacier that came right down across the climbing route. I've heard others talk about big avys coming down there too. I'd be very wary of that route, even though it looks like a boatload of fun.

Hi Mark, I'm curious if you encountered any rockfall in the coulior? I was there in late May last year and my partner and I got buzzed and thwocked by lots of smallish rocks. I think the temp was a little higher than ideal when we did it. What do you estimate the temp was on your climb? When we climbed there was enough fixed gear/slings along the east (climber's left) side of the coulior for rapping, though we went over the top and down the Sherpa. That west ridge was heinous with big snow mushrooms all over the "mid 5th class" rock. Congrats on your ascent and descent!

You forgot "What" What is he talking about/showing?

Gotta look out for that devil's club.

This website has some great interactive panoramic pictures of the crags. This link is for "The Gritscone": http://www.deceptioncrags.com/FarSide/Gritscone/Pano/index.htm I'll have to check that out next time I head up to 38.

Just because something is higher-tech doesn't mean it is less safe. Look at automobiles. It seems pretty obvious that some new Volvo with ABS/SRS/Chest belts is a lot safer than an old corvair (or whatever that car was that Nader got his panties in a bunch over). In general though, I appreciate the KISS rule.

Great. That description sounds right. Thanks Colin. So there are rap anchors on all climbs? Would you give the routes any stars? I really like that footbridge, even though it is "overbuilt". It reminds me a bit of a Calatrava design, quite elegant.

From the Exit 38 guidebook: "The upper portion of Overhaul Wall and eastward are of a granitic nature, usually with slabbier, high-friction faces." "The caprock on Overhaul changes dramatically to a very solid, subtly featured and gritty stone". Is that the stuff you are talking about?

Which crags are cong. sandstone?

38 is blocky, unaesthetic stuff. "Rhinoite" or whatever the hell. It's pretty much all bolted climbs. The road noise and gunfire detract from the already mediocre experience. Car prowling is common at the trailhead (this can really ruin your climbing day, week, month, year). 38 is definately a good quick climbing fix due to its proximity, but I second MattP, it's no "destination" area. 2500 posts, wow!

Hey, Anybody know anything about those slabby, north-facing slabs beside the Middle Fork of the Snoqualamie River facing Mt. Garfield? I remember seeing about four or five bolted lines. They were running with water and had a good deal of slime on them when I saw them a few weeks ago.

I assume you've seen this? http://www.skaha.org I've never been there, so I can't offer any first-hand beta/advice. Cheers,

I thought you were talking about a Castle Rock person... Yes I know what Castle Rock (Leavenworth) is. OK. Well it seems I have definately been outvoted on this issue (even by the newbie who wieghed in). Newbies: Apparently the concensus is that you are best off with a rack of passive pro to start out. I still disagree, but that is only my opinion. Cheers,

Who is Mitch and why should I care? Are you suggesting I shouldn't discuss this important topic because you don't know who I am? That's pretty juvenile. Go back to your sorority gossip threads Erik. I don't know who Castle Rock is either, so I have no idea how to interpret your comments. Try to say things a bit more relevant and internally consistent to the discussion at hand. Perhaps you could even put in your "two cents" on the issue of what a newbie's rack of pro should look like. Maybe I shouldn't expect much else than spray and personal insults on this website. p.s. How did I take "the bible" out of context fence-sitter? I even quoted "somewhat less reliable" bit? That seems like a pretty honest and complete quotation to me.

From "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills"(I know this isn't "The Bible", but it's a good general reference)"Spring-loaded devices, both wedges and cams, are easiest to place, but are heavier, more expensive, and somewhat less reliable than passive chocks. However, they often work in parallel-sided and flaring cracks where it is difficult or impossible to get anything else to hold."Hmmm... some support for my argument that cams are easier to place, but some support for my detractor's admonition to not "trust your cams". Anyone care to discuss how cams are "somewhat less reliable" than passive pro? I concede that theoretically a well set nut in a good constriction is totally bomber, but in the real world, wouldn't most people agree that your average nut/hex placement is more prone to coming out after being pulled upward or failing after the fall because the constriction wasn't ideal?I've never done one of these before, but: What is "easier" to place, passive or active pro?PassiveActive

Careful there Mr. Tactful, you might hurt my feelings. You may disagree, but I certainly do think that cams are easier to place than passive pro, and the newbies that I have taught to lead have agreed. I've heard several times, "I trust cams a lot more than nuts" from newbies. Passive gear can be bombproof, but I've seen gumbies put a nut into a crack, it stayed put so they assumed it was good, but when it gets a little tug, BING! That can happen with cams too, but I think it's less likely. Of course people should learn how to place passive gear, but I think heading out to do routes as a newbie with ONLY passive gear is sketchy (even though that is how I, and many others, learned). Being safe is the most important thing and if they get halfway up a crack with no constrictions so the nuts don't work and they don't know how to use or don't have hexes, a cam is going to save their ass. My rec is, as I said the first time, get both active AND passive pro and learn how to use them by placing them while standing on the ground. Jiggle em, yank em, weight em, and see what stays put and what doesn't. Evaluating placements (passive and active) is tricky, but the general idea is that you want as much of the working surface of the pro in contact with the rock as possible. For cams, this means all lobes should be touching the rock and the the lobes should be somewhere near the middle of their active range. Jiggle them a bit and make sure they don't walk to much. For nuts, you need to find a constriction in the rock that at its smallest point is thinner than the fattest point of the nut you are placing. Again you want as much of the metal surface touching the rock as possible. Give it a bit of tug down with arm-weight to set it. DO NOT lean back or use body weight when setting/testing the pro because if it pops, you will likely fall. It's a little harder to explain how hex placements work, but I'll give it a try. Hexes should be placed in a crack with the large flat surfaces against the walls of the crack such that when the hex is weighted it tries to turn and thereby cams itself into the crack. That's probably hard to visualize from my description, so just go out and try it. For any given crack, you generally have a lot more suitable cam spots than nut/hex spots. Another reason why cams are nice to have. Remember that gear often gets pulled up slightly when you climb above it, especially if the sling isn't long enough, and that this can cause a nut/hex to pull out or a cam to rotate/walk. Then do some faux-leading (placing gear while toproping). Then do some real leads. Apparently Retro and I agree that Leavenworth has some good beginner cracks. Isn't it great that we can all agree on something? I wish you luck and good times. Cheers, -AlpinLemming?

Ridiculous. We can't blame them for being annoying because they made an attempt before-hand to warn us that they were going to be annoying? That reminds me of that Simpson's episode where Bart says "I'm gonna walk towards you windmilling my arms, and if you get hit, it's your fault". Neither the Mounties, nor anyone else, should be out in the mountains in large groups. It is just too disruptive. Freakin' Gore-tex-encrusted locusts!