Gary_Yngve

Hardman Ken shoulder-standed your boulder and got her phone number when you were too busy trying to squeeze your feet into those tiny Cinderella slippers where if you don't take them off by the end of the route, you turn into a pumpkin.

OHO = Overly Hanging Out

I may swing by for an hour if I can find the time. I'm juggling too many things tonight.

This theme has many variants: http://www.greenchair.net/funny/colorado-barbie.htm http://www.crunchland.com/ubbs/Forum4/HTML/000495.html http://www.floridadnb.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=318565&sid=f6f06a5bbf110bf36dc83ef160c98d19 http://domesticat.net/entry/1023 http://www.craigslist.org/about/best/sfo/21860816.html http://www.wralfm.com/Article.asp?PT=Bill+%26+Sheri+in+the+Morning&id=80687 http://daybreaker.counterpop.net/lilac/archives/000740.html ...

Seven Virgins & a Mule, Party in Your Pants, Crossing the Threshold, Air Guitar, Pony Keg, George & Martha, Steel Grill.

I've led SV&aM, PiYP, PK, AG, G&M, SG, and Sens. My feelings are: Of PK, AG, and G&M, AG is the easiest and G&M the hardest. For AG, I entirely faceclimb the first 15 feet. G&M seems the hardest because the crack seems the least regular of all three. They all should be somewhere around 5.9. SG should be a 5.9. It's the standard 5.9 grovel/thrutch rating. Sensimilla seemed worthy of a 10c to me. I don't trust Vantage pro the way I trust Index pro, so I found myself placing more pieces and visually inspecting the pieces I place (awkward when you're centered between two cracks). I think PiYP is easier than 5.9, and SV&aM is easier than PiYP. Who cares whether PiYP is 5.8 or 5.7. I think the most important thing is to have grades consistent within a crag and not worry about Vantage grades vs Lworth grades vs Index grades. I should also note that as my climbing has matured and I have also climbed more in the gym, Vantage has gotten much easier for me. Instead of thinking crack == jam as I used to, I take advantage of face climbing, stemming, etc., when they present an opportunity. On the other hand, on the classic 10a handcracks at Index, it's pretty much jam jam jam, no other choices.

Climb: Cerise Creek-Keith's Hut Date of Climb: 3/24/2006 Trip Report: Kevin, Ruth, and I went to Keith's Hut Fri-Sun. There were only seven at the hut Fri night, but there were at least twenty Sat night! When we left the hut mid-afternoon on Sunday, only three others remained. I pity the foo who was training for a 3-week ski traverse by spooning peanut butter into his mouth (he was praising the high calorie-to-weight ratio). We enjoyed multiple teas and liquors, a bottle of wine, noodle dishes from east to west including one with my slow-cooked Sicilian sauce and steamed broccoli topped with asiago, and for dessert, Swiss dark chocolate and strawberries dipped in a Chambord-infused whipped cream. We had a nice mix of sun and freshiez. The snow further down was pretty stable, but the top 10-20 cm were shearing easily and cleanly as soft slabs. We chose our terrain carefully and had a great time. Joffre at sunrise. Skinning up with Matier behind. Ruth on the west ridge of Vantage. Kevin in nice telemark form. Cool clouds to the south. Money turns on the NE side of Vantage.

Good idea, Dave. I'll be sure to followup the pack recovery with a thorough probing of the thief.

I heard some chatter about proposals to build a four-season resort at Ape Lake near Bella Coola. Does anyone know more about it?

Thanks, Jordop.

They need some V8.

What freaked me out was the Canadian Immigration dood sitting behind the desk at the Peace Arch was wearing body armor.

Does Go Cat Go have some bolts on it and a small roof about halfway up? It felt like a pretty stout lead when I hopped on it last weekend, but I suppose that's to be expected when one hasn't led any rock since September. (I'm trying to put a name to the route, but I don't have a guidebook. I think it was within the vicinity of a bunch of spicy names and was a 10b with at least two stars.)

Three separate topics here, but from the same situation. We wanted dinner and were thinking about sushi in Vancouver, but we were worried about someone breaking into our car and stealing backpacks full of stinky clothes (and avy beacons). So instead we went to the brewery in Squamish. 1) Are there good sushi places in Squamish? 2) How severe is the breakin problem in Vancouver? Any parts of town where you'd trust leaving a Subie with WA plates and visible backpacks during dinner? 3) I know a bunch of folks have gotten broken into in the Aprons lot. Have there been breakins at Squish restaurants, such as the Brewery?

I thought our plan is to invade if Canada doesn't extradite Marc Emery.

I heard something about how the US put up unfair tariffs on Canadian lumber, scored about five billion, and won't give it back, despite three NAFTA rulings in favor of Canada. What do yall think?

DVDA

the night before vs. the morning after

AT vs Tele

Sweet! That looks like a great place for a summit bivy and photoshoot.

Shylock will buy it from you.

I think we mostly have a NIMBY attitude about buying cheap and reselling for profit to people who actually need them. Yeah, it's lame, but no lamer than manby other capitalistic activities. As long as that schmo isn't buying the cheap item/ticket I'm trying to buy, I really don't care.

You mean de Gaulle.

What's wrong with holes through coins? Many civilized nations have adopted that practice.