MounTAIN_Woman

Let me add that you can get an annual trail pass by performing volunteer trail maintenance work with Washington Trails Association. Check them out at Washington Trails . Also, in the sno-park system, if you want to ski the groomed trails, you have to buy the permit ($21) and then the special groomed trails sticker ($20). Snomobiles only have to buy the permit, and it is appalling that registration of their stinky, noisy machines covers their permits as well. Great topic newstips!

Let me add another twist to this thread. Last year, my partner Jim and some others climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden. They signed out at the ranger station, and planned to take two days to climb. One day to get in and establish camp, and then the second to climb and hike out. We talked about a probable late finish, and I mentioned to Jim that rather than have him risk injury hiking out through that tangled climber's path in the dark, it might be better to spend another night, and I wouldn't worry until he wasn't home by Monday afternoon. So imagine my instant panic when the rangers called me at 9:00 Monday morning to say that they hadn't made it out yet, and they sent someone up to see if their car was still parked near their entry point. It was still there. I mentioned to the ranger that they might have decided to spend another night if they got off the climb late. They would wait a few hours before sending a climbing ranger up the trail to see if there was any sign of them. About 11:00, I got a call from the ranger that they just signed out, and then not long after that, I received a call from Jim that they were on their way. They didn't know that the rangers had started the phone calls. Apparently after a successful climb and descent, they got to the basin at dusk, too tired to hike out safely. So they did just what Jim and I talked about, but when signing out Friday, they failed to sign out to possibly come out Monday morning. I wasn't worried about him until I got the call from the rangers!

Great site! Thanks for bringing it to our attention. I think it's snowing in the mountains right now!

They are probably one of the most versatile pieces on your alpine rack. With a few ovals, you can eliminate a belay device by using a munter hitch to belay and the carabiner break to rappel. I don't think any of your sport-o rock jock bent gate biners can make this claim. I wouldn't replace my ATC with ovals, but in the event that I dropped it and had to rappel off of something, I'd hate to think my only option was the dulfersitz! I make sure that my rack includes at least four ovals.

Good comments, all. It is through these comments that we will make the site even better. We had problems with the photos before. Since I did most of the scanning, and I'm somewhat of a novice photo doctor/scanner, Steve did the best he could with the larger photos I sent. I have learned a bit since then, and we've been talking about a faster version in the next update with me re-scanning the photos. Not a small task, but well worth it if it makes the site even better.

You can have the fastest connection in the world, and if you are operating on a smaller processor, like the celeron, the older pentium processers, etc. , certain web pages (and large email attachments) will load slowly. It is like water flowing through pipes. If you have a huge pipe (your internet connection) flowing into a small network of tubes (your processor), you can't possibly get all the water from the large pipe through the small tubes as fast as it flowed through the large pipe. The backup in the system is with the small tubes, i.e., your computer's processor. I don't have any problem with the site loading in less than a minute. I have broadband and a Pentium 4 at 1.6 Gigs. Not a particulary high-end setup, but it works for me.

A new website just came on line last week. It presents a new classification scheme for determining the major peaks in Washington. There are 197 major peaks based on this scheme. Interesting write-up and lots of mountain photos. Check it out at: Washington's Major Peaks

The West Ridge is definitely worth doing! The rock is unique, the scenery fantastic. You will need to be careful on the road, it leads to an active olivine mine, and the ore trucks rumble up and down the road all day, and can't stop or maneuver very quickly. I also recommend taking a mountain bike. It is a rough slog up, but you will appreciate it on the return. Also, bring a Washington Atlas, it will help with the navigating to the "trailhead". The hardest part, other than pulling the hill on a bike with a pack, is finding it. You can ride quite a bit of the approach.

Please send good thoughts and energy to our own Stefan as he recovers from traumatic ankle injuries suffered over the weekend. I'll let the details emerge from those who were there with him at the time if they choose to post them.

After I saw the tactless and almost mocking replies to my simple inquiry, I felt bad for even asking. I agree wholeheartedly with you Lambone, it is in poor taste to add humor to accident threads. I always thought the people who posted on this website, although a bit out of hand with the spray sometimes, were a good and well informed bunch. Especially during all the volcano epics this season, having the true story, not the media's frenzied hyped up versions. And I thank you Lazyboy for taking my inquiry seriously, and providing some real information. It isn't morbid curiosity, but as a climber who has also been on that peak, I am interested in what went wrong, so that I can learn from it. My deep, heartfelt condolences go out to the Long family in their time of grief.

I was perusing the WTA website and noticed a report for this past weekend (17-18 August)from the Mt. Cruiser area. The author told of being woke up by choppers with searchlights, and then the next day having a chopper drop off 8 rescuers. My partner and I were up on Mt. Mystery last weekend but didn't hear anything. Does anyone know anything about this?

Yes, thanks Allison. My response to Harmon and texplorer is this: if you don't like it, don't read it! If you want hardcore testosterone, and 20-something smack talk, there are plenty of other threads you can peruse. Believe me, I would much rather be in the mountains than sitting at this computer. Don't assume that those that choose to post on here are just twice a year "posers". This forum at least lets me keep in touch with what's happening "out there" while I recover. It's a great diversion.

Like Allison, I can't resist putting in my $0.02 either. The mountains are part of me, and I need to get out and connect as often as I can. It wasn't a boyfriend that got me into it. I started climbing and backpacking in high school for the adventure of it. I didn't do much in college, but afterward, met a hometown guy, crag climbed every weekend, got married, moved west and started climbing "real mountains". The marriage didn't last, but it wasn't the climbing that undid it, although he had gotten tired of climbing and wouldn't come out with me anymore. I don't agree that teaching girlfriends/wives to climb is a waste of time. What is a waste of time is dating and putting energy into a relationship with someone who does not share your values regarding not only climbing, but also children, money, religion, politics, etc. If someone truly wants to learn and appreciate your passion, then why not take them out and show them the ropes? As they gain appreciation of the sport, you may get a few more days in the mountains out of it, and a supportive partner! Before taking a newbie out, make sure they are in shape for it (weight training, aerobic activity), and keep it fun, scenic, and short!

Michael - you are not alone. My partner and I have had those years. Recently, the 2000 climbing season got off to a similarly abysmal start. One memorable "failure" was an early season attempt of Big 4, which tried to precipitate us off the mountain with sliding snow slabs. The season got better, but it took some reassessment of our climbing goals and approach to turn it around. Our success rate improved dramatically when we planned two or three trips for a given weekend, a Plan A trip, and then Plan B and C trips that took into consideration the weather forecast and the climbing team. Sometimes, we changed plans in the meeting-place parking lot. Many of the climbs we chose were easier climbs that we were afforded a better chance of success, whether due to the technical difficulties and conditions of the route, or the weather, or all of the above. The best way to get your confidence and "edge" back is to back off a bit and get some summits under your belt. If you keep getting turned back, eventually you are going to want to stop trying. Remember why you are out there - unless you are paid to be "extreme" (e.g. Mark Twight), just enjoy yourself! After that "setback" year, the next year, 2001, we had one of the best climbing seasons! Hang in there!

Wow, unless I'm missing something, I would have a hard time leading out with the anchors set up as you have described. You have three anchors rigged for a downward pull, with a single directional anchor for an upward pull. Now, should the leader fall, he/she will pull you up, potentially ripping out the single piece, followed by the trio of pieces. Not exactly a bomb-proof belay anchor. The belay anchor, as I understand it, is for the belayer, and the leader places protection on lead. There's nothing saying that the leader can't use the belay anchors as his/her first "piece". You have essentially rigged a belay for bringing up your second. But not for the other scenario. You need to equalize the anchors using a sling, cordelette, or similar method and make sure to anticipate the direction of pull. There is a good write up of this in John Long's book "Climbing Anchors".

Let me define how I used to understand "trad" versus "sport". "Trad" referred to placing removable protection on lead, and on-sight, while climbing natural rock, whereas "sport" referred to ascending natural rock or artificial climbing surface, clipping pre-placed quick-draws for protection. But the term "sport climbing" has come to embrace both styles of placing protection and evolved to describe a relatively new recreational pursuit. This new "sport" is also referred to in my circle as "crag climbing". Alpine climbing, which is what I see others confusing with "trad" climbing, is more mountaineering oriented, and is what has been a popular recreational pursuit for decades. I agree with the other posters here that how one chooses to spend his/her time in the outdoors is largely dependent upon geography, personality, and mentoring. I was raised in Pennsylvania on fishing, camping, and hiking. By 10th grade, I joined a high school club and discovered rock climbing, and had the opportunity to climb with for the next several years. The family headed West four different summers packed in the Bradymobile for Yellowstone, Canadian Rockies, Wyoming, and even Washington. Once the mountains get in your blood, they never get out. I climbed rock and water ice because that's all I had. It was fun, and I still crag climb, because it keeps my skills sharp for the alpine arena. But, I really wanted to be climbing mountains. I moved west the first chance I got!

dmcnair - I'm not sure if the route we did was the north or east route on Argonaut, but it was a good one. We approached from Colchuck Col, and did it in one long day. There is a spot of 5th class climbing on it (after you cross the snow-filled steep gully), but everything else is either moderate snow or 3rd class. There are two summit horns, the easy one is the true summit. I have a trip report filed on www.wta.org search under "argonaut". If you would like more info, feel free to send me a PM.

We did the Mary Green a couple years ago, about this time of year. Check out Washington Trails Association's website www.wta.org under Trip Reports, and do a search for Bonanza Peak. It's an awesome climb; the picket-fence knife edge stuffed with scree that makes up the final ridge to the summit will get your heart started! If you can't find it on the WTA website, send me a PM and I can email you the longer version.

It isn't hard to see how someone could think that "it is easy", and "there is a trail to the top". The media hype is also responsible in a way for glamorizing the mountain sports in the last decade or two. Look at the Winter X-Games, with speed ice-climbing! Think of the corn-fed young guy in the midwest who sees out-of-shape executives buying their way to the top of Everest, the blind guy who summits peaks, the paraplegic jumaring El Cap. He thinks to himself, if they can do it, why can't I, and it must be easy if they could drag their way up. I'm not belittling the drive and courage it takes for people with physical limitations to climb mountains, but in a way it gives off a false illusion that these mountains may not be that difficult. It isn't Disney World out there! In the mountains, there is no "stop" button and no safety net. The safety net has to be the climber's sound judgment, and honest assessment of his/her abilities.

We use a Mountain Hardwear Kiva - just bought it at the beginning of last year. After much deliberating, we decided that we liked their system better than the other ones on the market, especially the inside room. We wanted something to supplement a bivy - enable us to get out of the weather if needed.

Chimney Rock is an awesome climb, and not as bad as its reputation. The rescue story is well told in a book by Peter Potterfield ("Stories of Survival" or something like that). My partner and I did it in three days - one approach day, one full climbing day, and one exit day. There is a moat that forms at the base of the climb, making accessing the gully difficult. When we accessed the climb, some snow had collapsed into the moat, making a nice platform to work off. We climbed it in July. I posted a trip report on the WTA website (www.wta.org) from our successful climb and the unsuccessful attempt the year before.

Gear sling for the lead rack, racked with nuts up front, cams in the rear, smallest to largest. A few extra 'biners at the very back. Quick draws on the harness loops, long runners slung over the other shoulder. We use this for both sport and alpine routes. The difference comes in seconding. On alpine routes, gear sling, which permits easy and fast re-racking at belays, and especially since our alpine harnesses do not have loops. Sport routes - harness loops.

My vote: Eiger Sanction! Especially because it is so classic 70s and politically incorrect!! Honorable Mention:Storm and Sorrow - ok, but too much hugging. But the avy scene is downright terrifying! K2 - Good expedition story, but cheesy Hollywood ending. Vertical Limit - Excellent cinematography and scenery in general, but too much one hand hanging on for dear life, and then there's that leap of faith with the ice tools . . .!

Growing up in Western PA, I spent quite a few seasons at Seneca! If you can climb there, you can climb anywhere. Exposed, vertical moderate routes, but good pro, excellent cracks, good sound rock. Then we discovered The New! They opened up quite a few areas since I was there, in the days of Rick Thompson and Eric Horst, route masters! If you want to up your grade, the New is the place to go. For those in the Pacific NW, the New is near Fayetteville, West Virginia.